I'm curious if anyone has flushed their engine with an engine flush. LN Engineering sells Luqui Moly Flush made for engine flushing. I've also heard to remove the filter, dump out a 1/2 a quart a couple times and add a quart of auto trans fluid as it is basically a very high detergent 10 weight oil that will clean and flush out an engine quite well. Please give me your thoughts on what has worked for you. Thanks.

 

I've not, I won't, and I do not recommend doing so.

All of the Porsche-approved engine oils for 996s/997s (full synthetics) contain sufficient detergency that, changed at an appropriate frequency, your engine shouldn't gunk up to where you would benefit from engine flush. The downside is that you'll screw up the lubricating properties of your motor oil and cause accelerated wear or worse. With no upside benefits and potentially $20K+ downside risk, I wouldn't touch the stuff in my 996.

I know that older air-cooled cars running mineral oils (20W50 and suchlike) sometimes run engine flush right before an oil change. I used to do this in my old Beetle. My guess is that LN is marketing engine flush to their air-cooled customers.

If one does use a flush (or even change oil type to a much higher detergency one), you'll need to change oil and filter a few times on very short cycles to capture any crud that is sprung loose.

 

Don't do it, plus one to the above post.

After tearing into my engine, it was amazing how clean it was inside after 75k miles service, very little varnish and certainly no "sludge" to speak of.

Regular oil changes, or several oil changes in a small amount of miles would be better IMO.

 

Mine has 73,000 and I hope it is clean too. I just thought without knowing what the first owner did for the first 50,000 plus miles I may want to flush it all out. I will not now.

Who drops their pan to clean it and how often? Is this a risk or huge pain causing leaks or pretty standard service job? Thanks for the insight.

 

The best thing you can do is change your oil often, keep it at the proper level, and use the proper viscosity and recommended brand.

You can also have the oil analyzed (used oil analysis) from companies such as blackstone.

Dropping the oil pan is recommended before installing the IMS guardian or if you cut open your filter and see metal particles. Another reason is "just because" and you want to see what is in there which is perfectly acceptable, however I wouldn't be surprised if you see a few bits of plastic or sealant, which are usually benign, and may or may not return if you clean them out.

Before you reinstall the oil pan, the surfaces of the case and pan must be cleaned of all old sealant (use acetone, paint thinner. and if you are very careful a razor blade).

Then the old bolts cleaned of all old sealant.

Then a 1mm to 1.5mm bead of flange sealant (loctite 5900 or drei bond) applied in a specific line around the pan mating surface. Otherwise it will leak.

Then the pan installed without moving it once it is mated to the case.

Lastly in a cross pattern torque the pan bolts from inside to out at 7.5 fl lbs.