Yea, the other bank would be about the same I assume. He originally estimated 22 hours for both sides, which was dropping the engine. Doing one side was lowering the engine but not removing it entirely. But it was 14 hours that way, so not sure how much I saved, or how much bank 2 will cost should I ever need it.

But for now, the engine is definitely quieter upon startup. If it gets noisy, I'll bit the bullet and do the other side. I think I'll start draining the oil through a strainer as well to see if there are any small pieces of plastic in there. I had just changed my oil 2 weeks ago, and he changed it again to be sure. They found nothing in it. And when I do the oil changes, I always cut the filter open (I found NOTHING in there) and do an oil analysis, which showed nothing.

Here's a pic of the worn chain guide. The bottom is perfect looking.

 

I just posted a reply and pic. Where the heck did it go?

 

It didn’t go anywhere...you are a low count poster and posts are moderated and need to be approved before they can be viewed.

 

Was that just for the wear pads or is the tensioner something else? I have a MY2000 (5 chain engine) and I was thinking of having the pads replaced proactively. But not it it's $7k.

 

Ah. ok. "low count poster," I guess I've been called worse ;-)

 

Those costs include everything, including the nearly $1,400 (each) for the tensioner assembly, plus misc parts (like the non-reusable bolts that hold the cam gear on, at $6 each) etc).

Experts: how bad does that chain guide look?

 

Would those costs be incurred if only the pads are replaced?

 

Hmm. Good question. Obviously, not the $1,400 part. But I'm not sure if you can get the pads off without pulling the cams off. That would make a difference in labor. But it's still a lot of labor to get the cam covers off, which requires locking down the cams. I expect the answer to be: if you are going to the trouble of getting in there, saving money by not replacing the main part would be short sighted. I figure I'll be doing it eventually and just spreading out the cost over a year or so.

Maybe I'll look into replacing all the timing chain guides at the same time or something like that, to maximize the labor it takes to get access (ie, dropping the engine).

 

NO expert but the guide looks normal/ok to me. The wear tracks aren't even out the end of the pad.

I'll post a pic of a new actuator for my Boxster:





Now a pic of the used one:




I asked the tech about doing the other bank and he said the actuator rails looked normal and the condition of the rails of this actuator didn't warrant replacement. The problem was internal to the actuator and the new rails just came with the new actuator. So he advised as long as the other bank wasn't generating any error codes to leave it alone.

I can't recall the mileage now but it was around the 250K mile mark. Drove the car to 317K miles and the other bank (or the bank with the new solenoid/actuator) never manifested any signs of any issues.

The chain initially cuts grooves from the chain side plates. Then the chain rollers make contact. They roll/slide over the rail and support the chain so the side plates do not continue to cut (saw) through the plastic guide. Once this state is obtained the pad wear is nil.

The first oil change of a new engine or a used engine after the guides are replaced will find a lot of plastic debris in the filter. This is normal.

 

This reply is INCREDIBLY helpful and reassuring! I'm so thankful you wrote that, especially the last part about how the first oil change may show signed of the guides in the oil. If I'm understanding this all, and I believe I am, what your tech said makes perfect sense and it gives me GREAT comfort in not doing the other bank when there are no CEL codes, and also that the car is running so incredibly well these days (knock wood :-D)

I'm going to continue being diligent with maintenance as I always am, and try to enjoy this car that I seem to be growing more fond of every time I drive it.

 

Have to point out I followed the senior tech's advice regarding whether to replace the other bank's actuator rails when I asked him if he thought this should be done as a preemptive measure..

Like I mentioned in a previous post he said "No". The condition of the rails of the bank he was working on didn't warrant any work on the other bank. His advice proved to be correct.

But I don't think it fair -- if that is the right word -- to let the opinion of one tech over rule that of another. You entrusted your car to a shop/tech you must trust. If he advises you to replace the other bank's rails maybe you should listen to him?

Also, I have to mention even though my tech advised me the work was not necessary and I decided to follow his advice it was my decision. And I was prepared to live with the consequences had the other bank manifested any signs of trouble. The next minute or the next year or the next decade. As it turned out the work was done in I think mid 2012 and I drove the car another 7 years with no issues from the other bank.

What also played a role is that doing the other bank at the same time would not have resulted in any savings. For this work the engine was left in the car. Oh, there might have been a small savings as the tech would not have to remove the exhaust to get at the other bank's camshaft cover but essentially if the other bank required attention it would be a separate and probably another $3K job in its own right.

I was willing to roll the dice and see if the other bank developed any problems. That there was little risk of the engine suffering any harm should the other bank act up like the 1st bank acted up helped me decide to wait and see.

 

Understood, and I concur with your decision. When I spoke with my tech, he was also ok with my decision of letting it go until there is a CEL or other warning sign from the other side. Yes, it will cost a little more for doing both sides separately because if the bumper needs to come down twice, well, there's that labor. But if it doesn't need to be done for a year, 7 years, or never, then I put off that expense for that period of time. And like you said, assuming the CEL comes on first before the pad shatters and causes problems like the first side (and like everyone else on the forums) then it's a low risk situation. Until then, I'll change the oil 2x/year, I'll cut open oil filters and even drop the oil pan once in a while looking for signs of plastic hanging around there.