I have developed a massive leak in my driver's side top piston and am removing it for rebuilding. My top can be closed fairly easily - not enough fluid left in the system to provide resistance - but how do I latch the top manually at the windshield and the clamshell?

Thanks!

 

I can't see why you would need to latch both to remove the piston. You have to stop the hood when it just half way up/down into the (service position). Then remove the bobble held wires at the rear under the back window. Then lift the back window and hold it there with a small bungee cord to the top part. Then remove the 4 plastic pop in/out screws of the back window sill carpet. Take the carpet away and you should see just about anything and everything that you need to remove from the cab top mechanism. Ater re-installing the pistons that raise/lower the top, DO NOT forget to attach the wires onto the bobbles before trying the top again. The carpet can be replaced when you are satisfied that the top is working correctly. Good luck with the DIY work.

 

It's more a matter of securing it to drive while the pistons are off being rebuilt, as this is my daily driver.

Both pistons out, waiting for a call back from Cabriolet Hydraulics with price and turnaround time. Also found my clamshell hinge was broken, but have found a used assembly for $75.

 

I think now you will have to go into the 'emergency procedure' to close the top. You will find instructions on how to accomplish that procedure in your owners manual if one came with the car. http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti..._Mechanism.htm If you cannot locate the special tool then you can use 2 small (but not very small) Phillips screw drivers to move the cog wheel when sat in the passenger seat, above your head under the pop out plastic covers. That will extend the hook and latch it. The bobble wires has to be in place to tighten down the top. Unfortunately the clam shell part I have not used. I think that part is behind the rear seat on the drivers side. Read about having the top re calibrated after the emergency operation. Something about not trying to open/close it via the key or the rocker dash switch. Number 7 photo of that link does not look anything like my latching system of the 1999 Cab. Your 2000 may be the same. If not let me know and I can explain fully how to move the latch with the 2 Philips screw drivers previously mentioned in this post. PS please let me know how things are going. I may need to change my pistons some day.

 

I was able to get the front latched using the top tool, but no, mine does not look like the pictures either. As for the clamshell, there was a little bit of an issue as the screw in Figure 13 of the Pelican Parts article kept falling out. There is a square drive underneath it that I was able to actuate with a 8mm 12-point socket and all locks, latches, etc. on clamshell engaged. Everything feels secure to drive until my parts come in.

As for resetting the factory specs on the top (unless some miracle happens and I don't have to), there was a "hard reset" procedure the DIYs used to use on the Jaguar forum that would bleed off the capacitors and reset everything to factory spec. Has anyone here ever used a procedure such as this?

 

I am glad that you were able to latch the front and clam shell and that it feels good to drive now. Hopefully you may not need to have the top calibrated. I will have my fingers crossed for you. Well done.

 

Update:

My top is working again!!

It was a bit of a saga, but as of this morning I have it all sorted out with no need to visit the dealer.

I sent my cylinders off to Cabriolet Hydraulics for rebuild. It ended up costing an extra $100 because apparently my cylinders had been rebuilt previously by chimpanzees and needed some extra machining to set them right. However, they came back looking beautiful, complete with detailed install instructions, the proper amount of hydraulic oil, and a hose and bottle system for refilling the reservoir. I installed everything, actuated the pump as directed, and got very excited when the top and clamshell closed and latched as they should. But after the initial actuation it would do absolutely nothing, either from the rocker switch or the door lock.

I drove around long-faced in my new hardtop for a week or two since I am dealer-phobic, plus I really like the feeling of independence of being able to repair a car such as this in DIY mode. I found a really informative .pdf online about recalibrating the 911 top - the first step involved removing the "alien eyes" apparatus, unlocking the mechanism which apparently becomes locked when you use the emergency procedure, and re-syncing the gears with the aid of a 9V battery. Once this was accomplished the top worked perfectly from the door lock, but would not operate from the rocker switch.

So, while waiting for a train to pass this morning and trying to figure out what is bypassed when using the door lock instead of the rocker switch, my husband noticed the e-brake light was not coming on when he pulled up on the handle (this was never a problem pre-cylinder replacement). He set and released it a couple of times, it finally started working as it should.....and best of all my top now works from the rocker switch as well!! Very excited for the weekend and some serious top-down driving!!

 

BTW, here is the informative .pdf that solved my problem. Thank you lovely people of welton-village.org.uk!

http://www.welton-village.org.uk/porschesofttopp.pdf

 

Hey, Do you happen to have this document? The link is not valid anymore. I have a similar issue where I need to rebuild front latch assembly to activate the latch after manual operation.