I have a 99 C2 with 98k and I am going to install the Ohlins R&T that have been sitting in my garage for the last year or so with Elephant shock mounts/camber plate front and rear. DE/Backroads build. Car has Tarrett sways and end links (the GT3 spec sways).

I am planning on doing the GT3 LCA (likely Elephant) but when is the correct time, or ride height reduction, to add other components to correct alignment. I don't plan on slamming the car because the Southeast PA roads are a mixed bag, and I am an incrementalist so I can understand the changes - and afford track days.

I notice a lot of people addressing the front (which makes sense) in situations like mine, but I see less about doing the LCA on the rear and even less about upgrading the rear upper control arm monoballs at the same time.

I spoke with Chuck @ Elephant and he recommended the LCA Front/Rear and rear Upper control arm monoballs plus an adjustable rear track rod, and while I am doing the work, the rear subframe bushings to really lock down the rear because of all of the forces it encounters. I am trying to keep on a budget (and leave some winter projects) and this stuff pushes me over by a bit. (I had a larger budget when we spoke but decided to spend some on driver improvement and new brake stuff).

I'll be running a 280A street tire on 19's (S-04's) until next year when I get 18's and dedicated track rubber.

Is there a downside other than paying for an alignment again, to staging the suspension to:
STAGE 1 >Front/Rear LCA + Ohlins Install w/ Solid Top Mounts. The Ohlins are 25-30mm lower than stock.

STAGE 2 > Adding the additional parts later.

Will I be able to get good alignment specs with my Stage 1 idea since the drop is similar to an X51 package? Is there something else I should be considering in Stage 1?

Many Thanks!!

Dave

 

Besides the tighter(and sometimes rougher riding) feel of the spherical bearings that replace the rubber counterparts, you'd want to get the gt3 front LCA if you want more aggressive camber if this car is going to be setup mostly for track if you don't have the adjustable or more aggressive cambered top hats. For the ones that already have the desired aggressive camber, they then focus on getting the gt3 front LCA to control the dynamic castor changes that can occur at the tracks. Just don't be one of those guys that get these and run stock or near stock camber settings. :banghead:

The rear toe links are primarily to adjust toe for those that are lowered more than ~1.5" where the stock units aren't adjustable and can't compensate for the additional toe after that range.

The aftermarket rear "dog bones" are used to adjust camber and to stiffen the rear slop.

Not too many doing rear because some of those components are the most noticeable in track conditions where static/dynamic alignment becomes a more important factor and the avg enthusiast doesn't need to nor want to go super aggressive with rear camber since rear camber is adjustable to a point with stock components.

I'm not exactly sure what your question is but I would do it in stages and pay for the additional alignment each time. This way you can decide if you really need the additional items. Some find they are happy with the basic package depending on their driving level, goals, track, etc.

 

This answers my question.. To restate it: "If I am adding the coilovers and therefore lowering the car by 30mm to start, do I have to add adjustment to compensate at this time or can that be saved for a later project?"

So, the answer is to start in small bites, learn and experience the effects, and then decide if additional parts are needed. I can do the GT3 LCA's with the suspension install and start there.

I know simply refreshing the other parts (dog bones, LCA, etc) would benefit the car because of the new bushings in the respective components. I've gone WAY overboard on cars in the past and want to keep my self in check.

 

We both have the same disease.

Some would say you've already gone way overboard with the Ohlins and GT3 LCA's.

Sweet setup btw.

 

Here's the answer to my question: Do the LCA with the Coil Overs.

I was gunning for 0 toe and "as much camber as I can get" with that constraint. My alignment shop got to -2.4 in the front and dead nuts 0 toe. The rear I believe was -2.1 or -2.2 at +.05 toe. My ride height should be the stock -20mm setting on the Ohlins out of the box, and this system can go (safely) to -35mm. I know my total camber can likely go to -3.5+ in the front if this ever becomes a dedicated track car, with the adjustable camber plates.

Obviously (or not for newbs like me) with the adjustable toe-links, etc you can get pretty deep, but camber and ride height affect caster/toe.

Let me tell you this- They are stiff, and that lack of droop (negative travel) made some of the really bumpy roads feel crazy. I stopped and reset the rear damping to -15 turns from full in. was better, especially on the bumps, but the smooth roads would be fine a little higher like -12.

Anyhow, the car is way tighter, especially the front end. Hardly any pitch or dive on acceleration or braking. I'm glad I did the LCA's and the Elephant parts are sexy.

I also did the center radiator with a CSF unit and the temps never moved (92 degrees outside and driving medium-hard).