I know there are a lot of posts about the problematic ignition switch. Unfortunately, I have not found one that addresses my particular issue so I am starting this new thread. My apologies if this has been answered...I looked but didn't find one.

My switch started acting up about a week ago. The key was difficult to turn and when fully turned clockwise to start the car it seemed to stick there. Car was running but no lights nor wipers. So I had to turn the key very, very slightly counterclockwise and all was fine. But clearly something was up. After a couple of days, the car electronics wouldn't completely shut down when I turned the key to off (position 0). The engine stopped but the radio stayed on. When I removed the key (with a little jiggling to free it) and opened the door, the dash warned me the they key was still in the ignition.

So I bought a replacement switch for less than $15.

Today I replaced it (after struggling to loosen the two screws). Now the key goes in smoothly. It turns very smoothy too and all accessories come on. Everything seems to be perfect except for one thing....the car won't start. Nothing. No cranking whatsoever.

It is possible the switch is faulty? Is it possible that the clutch interlock switch is faulty? It seems very unlikely that the clutch switch would fail right after I replace the ignition switch.

Has anyone replace the ignition switch and immediately after replacement your Porsche wouldn't start?

I followed the instructions exactly as Pedro detailed. Other sites say to disconnect the battery, put the key in and ensure it's in the 0 position. Remove the old switch, put the key back in and ensure it's in the 0 position and then finally plug in the new switch. I didn't do any of those things.

But now I'm stuck with a nicely turning ignition switch that does not start my car. Please help. Thanks. John

I found some replies on other forums that suggested a few things. I fixed the issue so I figured since I asked the question I should post the answer.

1) I bypassed the clutch switch just in case that was involved. That didn't help so I reconnected it.

2) I removed the new ignition switch. This time I ensured it was in the off position. I don't know if it was in the correct position when I first installed it. But at the end of the switch that goes in first (mine is yellow) is where the end of the key gets inserted. I figured that if the key goes in the 0 position then this switch should also be set to that position. So I turned yellow slot to the 0 position with a flat head screwdriver.

3) I reinstalled it and presto, the car starts perfectly.

4) I have no idea if item 2 above was the issue because I'm not really sure if the key could have been inserted if the yellow slot was in the wrong initial position. Nonetheless, if you are installing a new switch make sure it's in position 0 before doing so.

Thanks
John

I'm glad your problems are over. And it only cost you $15 and some aggravation!

Hi Johnstof. May I clarify if you replaced just the switch or the whole assembly?



Whole assembly with switch

I've read over and over that the $15 switches don't last and can be bad out of the box. The $30 switches are much better. I'm just repeating what I've read, I have no direct experience in that area.

I'm currently eyeing the $80 Porsche OEM on Pelican Parts. I hope that will be better. Would replacing just this switch need re-programming or re-coding by the Porsche dealer/shop? Johnstoff didn't mention if it was just the switch or the whole assembly. He also didn't mention any reprogs or recodes.

Re: the ignition switch - I would only buy the OEM part for this job. I wouldn't go cheap on the ignition switch. Too many frustrated people have voiced problems down the road. If I'm not mistaken, if you follow the correct procedure, it's a pretty straight forward swap out. The key code/IR authentication for your car is handled by the ECU and not affected by the actual ignition switch. There is a little pill inside your keyfob that "talks" to the ECU once the key is inserted into the shaft. Your keyfob is "mated" (i.e. authenticated) by the dealership. Porsche probably make more profit margin on their keyfobs than anything else. Most people that want new keyfobs made, must go back to the dealership. That's why it's always smart to take care of these little suckers. Ask me how I know. hahaha

Here is a good DIY - https://www.renntech.org/forums/tuto...with-pictures/

Great link Bill! Very helpful!!!

There are good tips and comments about that DIY here:

https://www.renntech.org/forums/topi...with-pictures/

Thanks thanks! I've decided to take out the ignition switch first before I order the part.

Most of the problems with ignition can be attributed to the actual switch, not the whole assembly. Replacing it is a cheap way to troubleshoot. If after replacing the ignition switch, it's still hard to start the car, then I would try to safely lubricate the shaft.

Also, it's also a good idea to have a back keyfob. I can't tell you how many sob stories I've read about people losing their keys or they one and only keyfob dies. It will cost you upwards $3,000 for Porsche to fix the car. Why? Because if you lost all of your keys, Porsche will have to replace the ignition assembly and immobilizer... and, program new keyfobs and make laser etched keys. This doesn't come cheap. As long as you have one good working keyfob and laser etched key, new ones can be made for around $300 - $500 depending on the dealership. Some charge more for the service. But word to ALL 996 owners, NEVER own a Porsche 996 with just one working keyfob! Have a working backup.

Hello. I know this is an old post but I’m having the same issue. Were you able to solve it?

Hi, I got exactly the same problem today. After replacing the ignition switch - the key would rotate smoothly but the car won't start.
I figured, the problem is in yellow "key hole" position in the back of ignition switch. if it doesn't stay precisely where it has to be, the car won't start. In my case I turned it about 1/16" counterclockwise and it worked. I've read somewhere it's gotta stay on 0 position, but I couldn't find anywhere to show where exactly that position is. Also there are no markings on plastic anywhere...

Good luck.

I ended up jumping the clutch ignition switch and charging the battery and it worked finally.