Thanks Frank...I very much hope so...


How is your beast doing ???

 

6 months into it and still not ready. Ironing out the wrinkles is the best way to describe it. In hind sight I am thinking a 997TT might have been a better option.

 

0-60 in 4.2s with ecu, tubi?? Your 20" wheels are heavy man.. Guys.. normally, a 997 turbo 19" with ecu and exhaust will hit below 3.5s 0-60 am i right?

 

Well...I dont think its the wheels...more likely an ECU...not sure though Champion wheels are not that heavy...

 

Well..doesnt sound too good....

 

stock 997 turbo, 0-60 in 3.7s - 3.9s. With ecu and exhaust mods, theoractically, the figures should be lower right? Anyone with similar setup/experience?

 

there's some drift box results in evoms.com
they wrote 0 to 60mph:
3.9 in stock
3.7 with exhaust and ecu
3.1 with 610hp exhaust headers intercooler and ecu
2.9 with the 700hp package i belive so

 

Your tiptronic should be faster than that especially with GIAC and Tubis. You're about a second off on each segment measured.

Champion wheels are lighter than stock. Now a 20in Champion with tires will probably end up weighing in the same as a 19in stock, or perhaps even less. Those folks out there with 20in champions would certainly know if this is a correct assumption on my part.

My HRE 20s (9" & 12") with PS2s will add a total of about 4 lbs (all around) of unsprung weight compared to stock (ugh!). That additional rotational mass will hurt acceleration times and handling. That's my rationale for getting the 600hp upgrade followed by sways and damptronics The tire weight at that size is a huge factor. For example the Contis are very, very heavy at that size (according to the figures published @ tirerack).

The only thing I can think of is tire diameter. I think you were running 20x 11in in the rear and if you have substantially changed the revolutions per mile by changing the tire profile & diameter then you'd get an inaccurate read off the speedo. Go to tirerack.com and check stock revs per mile vs your current tire setup to see if this might be the case. This of course is presuming that the acceleration times were measured using the car's speedometer.

If none of the above is a factor then I'd also check for a plenum air leak in some of the rubber hosing and clamps. That would mean that you'd be loosing boost pressure. You'd probably hear a bleeding hiss when you punch it. Besides you'd feel that since it's fairly noticeable.

 

I think u are right...but i dont have right porfile at the back 305/25 on 20 which is smaller diameter then stock and front are 245/30 which are bigger then stock, may this could cuase inaccurate readings...but 10.4 60-130 doesnt sound too bad for such power...Tym said my car dies at the top...car was new and servcied and checked at the dealer so I doubt it would have some plenum leaks...

Anyways we added some intresting mods this week, some pics coming sooon...

 

Others w/ more experience on this can chime in but w/ your current wheel/tire set-up you're going to burn out your differentials. Or is this only w/ 315s???????????? Front & rear diameter's need to be the same, or at least extremely close, right?

 

Yes...I know that...thanks anyways...unfotunately we cant fit nor I want to (cause it wont look good) 325 tyres on 11 wide wheels, so we opted to go for Toyos 315/25 on 20s...I hope it will be OK...

 

When you start messing with tire diameter and etc. you're likely to have traction issues as well. You don't see race cars running WIDE LIP rims and SKINNY tires. It totally !$#%~%! the handling and the traction when you have no give in the tires, no sidewall and etc...

The truth is that 19's are about as far as you can go and when you get right down to it, 18's work the best for the majority of applications where pure straight-line acceleration is a factor for you. You could be off by a second or a half a second for any number of environmental factors. Conditions dictate and you would only have a valid 1/4 mile time after several, several runs under basically ideal conditions.

Don't worry about it: When the car comes back you'll have absolutely sick quantities of power, and truthfully, you hit a tiny little patch of gravel or sand in the road or anything less that perfectly smooth when dialing in 550+WTQ on the street, you'll be re-living one of those Pino-Noir drinking scenes from the movie Sideways.

The car was better than you when you got it and now it's going to be MUCH better than you. Because of Tym's excellent work, the car will also be far.... far.... more dangerous to operate given the new output levels. Markski's window sticker on the rear-quarter of his 996TT is the God's truth.... "At 200mph you have no friends"

 

https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...ight=305+tires

I see you've replied in this thread so you must be aware of what was discussed, why would you risk what seems to be a certain problem? What about reducing the diameter of the fronts to match the rears?

 

excited to see the results mike

 

Thanks...you dont know how excited am I...We should have some more info this week...I know it but i will post it with pics ))) let the pics speak for themslves...