Lowered + Aftermarket Sways = Knocking Sound?
but from everyone that has it seems that it may be something with the interaction between the coilovers and springs, maybe need to get them cleaned out, I heard if dirt gets into some places there it can cause some grinding noises and something else, but the sound is definitely getting worse, as is the knocking.
1- I only have H&R springs
2- The sympton appeared right after that the H&R sways was installed.
Car is going in for control arms, pads and oil change this week to get ready for the track, so I'll just have them lube everything up and see if that fixes things.
Those agency power links might be the issue, not sure 996tt and 997tt parts are that interchangeable. Either way, Taso knows what he's doing.
Mine has the gmg solid thrust bushings......maybe you need the same.
GL
c
Mine has the gmg solid thrust bushings......maybe you need the same.
GL
c
I'm not doing the thurst bushings unless I know 100% Im keeping the car. Just doing the control arms and getting more negative camber F&R because I ate my tires that past weekend. Swapped the sides around on Saturday and they were nearly bald on the outside edges. Got new tires coming in, going to try out the Nitto Invos, at $700 cheaper per set I'm curious to see how they'll do.
Off to NNJR Thunderbolt on May 18&19 and debating if I should go to Shenandoah 16 & 17 with Track daze.
Part of the problem with these newer Bilstein kits (late 08 and on) is they changed the manufacturing of the insert on the drop links. They went to some sort of cheaper plastic design and it pops out and fails. Seen it too many times now over the last few months and I've talked to other shops so I know we're not the only ones to have seen it. If you guys are running PASM Bilstein Coil Overs and hear a noise out of the front do yourselves a favor and check to see how the drop link on either side is holding up.
Alex you're *always* a good source of info.
I also have heard from one or two owners that the front Bilstein drop link breaks.
FWIW, I am using front and rear Tarett Drop Links with my Bilstein and has no noise problem. They are beautifully made and my opinion is they make the car feels a little less "rubbery." http://www.tarett.com/items/996-997-...lnk-detail.htm
I also have heard from one or two owners that the front Bilstein drop link breaks.
FWIW, I am using front and rear Tarett Drop Links with my Bilstein and has no noise problem. They are beautifully made and my opinion is they make the car feels a little less "rubbery." http://www.tarett.com/items/996-997-...lnk-detail.htm
Part of the problem with these newer Bilstein kits (late 08 and on) is they changed the manufacturing of the insert on the drop links. They went to some sort of cheaper plastic design and it pops out and fails. Seen it too many times now over the last few months and I've talked to other shops so I know we're not the only ones to have seen it. If you guys are running PASM Bilstein Coil Overs and hear a noise out of the front do yourselves a favor and check to see how the drop link on either side is holding up.
Alex you're *always* a good source of info.
I also have heard from one or two owners that the front Bilstein drop link breaks.
FWIW, I am using front and rear Tarett Drop Links with my Bilstein and has no noise problem. They are beautifully made and my opinion is they make the car feels a little less "rubbery." http://www.tarett.com/items/996-997-...lnk-detail.htm
I also have heard from one or two owners that the front Bilstein drop link breaks.
FWIW, I am using front and rear Tarett Drop Links with my Bilstein and has no noise problem. They are beautifully made and my opinion is they make the car feels a little less "rubbery." http://www.tarett.com/items/996-997-...lnk-detail.htm

The Tarrett stuff is great I agree. We use the RSS stuff but it's all similar
My Bilstein supplied drop links are fine apart from the annoying 'clunk' at low speed with full lock on. Given how amazing my suspension setup is now I am perfectly happy to live with it.
...it's the equivalent of Cindy Crawfords mole!
...it's the equivalent of Cindy Crawfords mole!
Last edited by Alex_997TT; May 5, 2009 at 04:44 AM.
You know if you put in the adjustable thrust bushings in the cup control arms, you'll be able to get a lot more negative camber. In for a penny, in for a pound, you've already done this much, might as well finish the car.
I'm headed to WGI on May 28, might try and sneak in a njmp trip in btwn.
I'm headed to WGI on May 28, might try and sneak in a njmp trip in btwn.
You know if you put in the adjustable thrust bushings in the cup control arms, you'll be able to get a lot more negative camber. In for a penny, in for a pound, you've already done this much, might as well finish the car.
I'm headed to WGI on May 28, might try and sneak in a njmp trip in btwn.
I'm headed to WGI on May 28, might try and sneak in a njmp trip in btwn.

As for the thrust arm bushings thats how it starts, at this point Im already in for the pound, and the other pound, and the one that comes after, so I just want it to stop at some point. Every week there's another bit to add. If I can get -3 in the front with the bilsteins and control arms I'll be happy, if I can't, then we'll see what's next.
Driving the car today it sounds better but there is still definitely something knocking around, I think I may look into these tarret drop links or wait to see if Taso finds anything.
But lubrication does seem to help with the overall noise.
Replacing suspension components that are wearing (and knocking) prematurely as a result of lack-of-lube may seem to solve the problem while merely delaying a return of the symptoms (and possible failure of components) due to... lack of lube. 
If you do swap stuff, I'd take a look at the wear points and see how the lube looks in case the problem comes back. You might get a better sense of where the problem was.

If you do swap stuff, I'd take a look at the wear points and see how the lube looks in case the problem comes back. You might get a better sense of where the problem was.
Exactly, the last place you want a link to fail is at the track. I would not go to the track until your issue is 100% resolved. Modern suspension components typically don't need to be 'lubed up', so to speak, like my old '71 firebird.
Why do you want so much negative camber on a street car anyway?
If it's tire wear, there may be another issue. Our cars are similar, but mine has a bit more power, and a slightly tighter suspension on cups, I only run -1.5 up front, and I'm in the fast run group all day long with decent tire wear. Try using a pyrometer (or borrow mine) next time out to more accurately analyze tire temps/wear/pressure. Remember, at the end of the day it's a 100k street car that is very capable on the track...not a race car. hate to see ya go too far off the deep end bro!
GL either way, hopefully taso can figure it out, but since you've already been up to FL, I would have just had them sort it again.
c
Why do you want so much negative camber on a street car anyway?
If it's tire wear, there may be another issue. Our cars are similar, but mine has a bit more power, and a slightly tighter suspension on cups, I only run -1.5 up front, and I'm in the fast run group all day long with decent tire wear. Try using a pyrometer (or borrow mine) next time out to more accurately analyze tire temps/wear/pressure. Remember, at the end of the day it's a 100k street car that is very capable on the track...not a race car. hate to see ya go too far off the deep end bro!
GL either way, hopefully taso can figure it out, but since you've already been up to FL, I would have just had them sort it again.
c
Last edited by TT Surgeon; May 5, 2009 at 08:26 PM.




