Doesn't AutoAtlanta have an equivalent filter wrench for $8? http://www.autoatlanta.com/Porsche-9...ench-srch.html Part 54760

 

Maybe, maybe not. Four out of the 5 wrenches I tried were explicitly endorsed by people online saying "this $5 Autozone wrench totally works!" only to find out that they did not on my car. I lost trust in that approach and decided to just get the official part and be done with it. At least the parts store ones I could return easily, versus a hearsay gamble from an online vendor.

 

This is a painless and relatively quick job. Thank u for the write up, the most diff part of this job is jacking it up on the ramps. I picked up everything fr Pelican Parts, easy to source all the washers and so on.

 

So I'm about to change my own oil instead of shelling out $250+ for a shop to do it.

A question for the guys who done this. If you didn't have access to a lift, where is the safest point to jack the car up and placement of stands (if used).

Thanks in advance guys!

 

https://www.quickjack.com

 

Quickjack is nice, but expensive. You absolutely DO need to use decent quality jack stands. An alternative if it works for you and is MUCH easier is using drive on ramps. I have a set of these as well as jack stands and a lift. The drive on ramps are the fastest and safest but if you don't position them correctly can block access. Just Google "Porsche 996 turbo oil change" and check out the posted videos. I'm sure there are plenty of step by step right on this site if you use the "search".

It's not hard as long has you make sure you have the right equipment and makes a joke of paying through the nose. It is also an opportunity to get more in touch with the condition of your car.

 

I use two jacks to lift the rear. Pump each one a bit at a time until I reach the height I want. Here is a picture of my car and where I place the jack stands.

 

Thanks 02black330ci. Just to confirm, the bolts that are circled in red is where I would be draining the oil..correct? The one to the right is the oil tank and the middle the reservoir. If so, wouldn't the oil pool to the front of the reservoir if its jacked up in the rear?

 

I never had issues draining the center this way. Trust me a lot of oil comes out. Is there still a bit left in there, I am sure there is. But not enough to where I need to put less than the 8 quarts of oil required. Also, depending on what type of oil container you are using, you may way to move the jack stands a bit more inward to provide you with more room.

Here is good video of the process, hope it helps:

 

Well, that looks easy! Thanks for posting the link

 

Fantastic thread. I just wanted to add what I found regarding a couple of oil wrenches. The CTA A251 has been mentioned as working, so I ordered one of those from Amazon ($3.84), along with its big brother heavy duty version, the CTA 2481 ($9.87) (see pics). The problem with the A251 is that it is tapered and doesn't have an external nut to engage the socket, so if you place it over the cap without the socket, it fits very well. However, when you engage the socket, it lifts the wrench, and since it is tapered, it now has a very sloppy fit, and only engages the very top of the filter cover. I wouldn't recommend it. The CTA 2481 is a different story. It fits with just a little slop, which is exactly what I was hoping for. I then lined the inside with some masking tape, which now makes it fit like a glove, and protects the filter cap. (See pic). This one I highly recommend.

 

The following one fits and works great without any filler.

Lisle 61570

 

Just get it from the Porsche dealer...it's really not expensive and made in Germany!

 

I also jack from the engine, and planned on getting a set of the Rhino ramps to use under the tires, instead of using jack stands under the points discussed above. The problem I had with that was that when I read the reviews of the heavy duty version of the Rhino ramps, there were several complaints of them cracking and a couple even showed pics of theirs that had crushed under the weight of their vehicle. That's not a risk I'm willing to take. So, I decided to make a quick pair using scrap wood. I wasn't sure how tall they needed to be, so this is the approach I took. I first measured how much clearance there was under the car as it sat normally. Then I jacked it up an additional 4 3/4", which was going to be the starting height of the stands using the lumber I had (3 1/2" for the 2 X 4s + 1 1/4" for the OSB rim board top). At this point, the wheels still weren't off of the ground, but this would be how much clearance I would end up with. This looked perfect, so I built them this way. My plan was to add another layer of 5/8" or 3/4" OSB on the bottom if needed. I really didn't want to do this since OSB is heavy. I wanted the 1 1/4" thickness on the top for strength, but anything on the bottom doesn't add strength, and would make them harder to carry. If you wanted a higher stand, using 2 X 6s would be a better option. I used the thick rim board on the top since I had it, but if I didn't, I would use 3/4" plywood with another support. I'm sure the single center one would be fine, but I like to overkill things. I also didn't need the ramp portion, since I prefer to jack the car up in place. I tested them after building them, and they provide more than enough height for me. In fact, I would have more than enough height if I lowered them 1/2". That means they could be built with 2 X 4s and a 3/4" plywood top and still work well. Mine ended up being 12" W X 20" L.

 

Those look nice.