DIY: V1 Hardwire 997 with auto dimming mirror (NO SOLDERING!)
#31
Just did this on my 2010, only issue was finding the black and ORANGE wire. This was made easier using an exacto blade to remove the electrical wrap. I also picked up a different connector from radioshack for 18-22 ga. wires. The radioshack T-tap has a dual connection point for the wire and plugs right into the V-1 supplied male connector. I also found it helpful to completely remove the dome cluster cover by unplugging all of the switches.
Thanks bonehead for the excellent DIY post!
Thanks bonehead for the excellent DIY post!
#32
I wish I saw this before...I wired my V1 from the Fuse box and though I was able to hide all the wires this would have been a bit easier. If I ever have to do it again, this is it. Thanks Bonehead!
#33
To those who have used the install below, on step 5, which wire cluster is this? I think my wires are slightly different colors and I could only find one that was close that went to the sunroof button? I ended up shorting out the fuse to my sunroof
Thanks to member skeeter for walking me through this. This is his mod, I just took the pics while I did it
There was a very elegant hardwire thread on Renntech that involved a lot of cutting and soldering....
http://www.renntech.org/forums/index...-installation/
Yeah....wasn't too comfortable with that. Couldn't believe that no one posted a V1 hardwire using the V1 kit. To my knowledge, one doesn't exist. Well, here it is:
Tools needed:
Small flathead screwdriver
Phillips screwdriver
Pliers
V1 Hardwire kit
1) Remove the dome light cluster
I used a small flathead screwdriver up by the windshield to gently release the clips and remove the lights.
2) Remove the homelink buttons
There is a small tab along side each button cluster (indicated by red arrow). Use a small flathead to pop these out. They come out with very little effort.
3) Remove the Phillips head screws
After removing the buttons, you will see a Phillips head screw under each button cluster. Remove these.
Screw hole with screw already removed
4) Remove plastic dome cover
Sorry, no pic of this. Get a flathead screwdriver or your fingers under the dome cover back by the sunroof and gently (but firmly) pull down. It is held by two clips a few inches from the back and hooks in the front by the windshield. I was afraid of breaking the thing, but it eventually came loose
5) Find the ORANGE/BLACK hot wire
This wire is located in the cluster of wires coming out of the headliner on the driver's side. Cut or push the black tape aside to find it and get enough slack to attach the T-tap connector.
Hot wire with T-tap connected
6) Attach the ground
This is PITA Using the metal clip on the passenger side where you removed the Phillips head screw, slowly slide the clip part way towards the passenger side. To prevent it from flying under the headliner if you accidentally remove it completely, stuff a small microfiber or paper towel in the space just to the right of the clip.
Now, using the flathead, pry open a space between the clip and the chassis. Then slide the spade connector from the hardwire kit into this space. Push the clip back to the left to line up the screw hole with the hole in the clip.
7) Test it
Without putting all the lights and panels back just yet, put the Phillips head screw back into the passenger side hole to hold and compress the ground to get a good connection.
Fire up the car and VOILA! Just remember to remove the screw again before you replace the dome cover.
Mine didn't work at first. Had to pinch the T-tap with pliers to adequately cut through the insulation of the hot wire. Other than that, just make sure the ground screw is in tight and it should work.
8) Route phone power cord out the front and STUFF the wires under the headliner
Route a short length of the straight cord out through the front hole by the mirror stalk.
Now to get the wires tucked...Ok, this is PITA too. If you haven't already noticed, there isn't a lot of room up there. But if you look under the headliner under the passenger side vanity mirror, there is some room to stuff all the wires. This took some doing with a VERY tight fit, but it works.
9) Reverse the removal steps.
Clip the plastic dome piece into place, replace Phillips head screws, replace buttons and dome light.
Now you can enjoy V1 hardwired goodness
There was a very elegant hardwire thread on Renntech that involved a lot of cutting and soldering....
http://www.renntech.org/forums/index...-installation/
Yeah....wasn't too comfortable with that. Couldn't believe that no one posted a V1 hardwire using the V1 kit. To my knowledge, one doesn't exist. Well, here it is:
Tools needed:
Small flathead screwdriver
Phillips screwdriver
Pliers
V1 Hardwire kit
1) Remove the dome light cluster
I used a small flathead screwdriver up by the windshield to gently release the clips and remove the lights.
2) Remove the homelink buttons
There is a small tab along side each button cluster (indicated by red arrow). Use a small flathead to pop these out. They come out with very little effort.
3) Remove the Phillips head screws
After removing the buttons, you will see a Phillips head screw under each button cluster. Remove these.
Screw hole with screw already removed
4) Remove plastic dome cover
Sorry, no pic of this. Get a flathead screwdriver or your fingers under the dome cover back by the sunroof and gently (but firmly) pull down. It is held by two clips a few inches from the back and hooks in the front by the windshield. I was afraid of breaking the thing, but it eventually came loose
5) Find the ORANGE/BLACK hot wire
This wire is located in the cluster of wires coming out of the headliner on the driver's side. Cut or push the black tape aside to find it and get enough slack to attach the T-tap connector.
Hot wire with T-tap connected
6) Attach the ground
This is PITA Using the metal clip on the passenger side where you removed the Phillips head screw, slowly slide the clip part way towards the passenger side. To prevent it from flying under the headliner if you accidentally remove it completely, stuff a small microfiber or paper towel in the space just to the right of the clip.
Now, using the flathead, pry open a space between the clip and the chassis. Then slide the spade connector from the hardwire kit into this space. Push the clip back to the left to line up the screw hole with the hole in the clip.
7) Test it
Without putting all the lights and panels back just yet, put the Phillips head screw back into the passenger side hole to hold and compress the ground to get a good connection.
Fire up the car and VOILA! Just remember to remove the screw again before you replace the dome cover.
Mine didn't work at first. Had to pinch the T-tap with pliers to adequately cut through the insulation of the hot wire. Other than that, just make sure the ground screw is in tight and it should work.
8) Route phone power cord out the front and STUFF the wires under the headliner
Route a short length of the straight cord out through the front hole by the mirror stalk.
Now to get the wires tucked...Ok, this is PITA too. If you haven't already noticed, there isn't a lot of room up there. But if you look under the headliner under the passenger side vanity mirror, there is some room to stuff all the wires. This took some doing with a VERY tight fit, but it works.
9) Reverse the removal steps.
Clip the plastic dome piece into place, replace Phillips head screws, replace buttons and dome light.
Now you can enjoy V1 hardwired goodness
#34
Cluster is on the far left side. I think I had to pull out the wire cluster as it was hidden in the headliner above the visor. If you have 997.1 turbo, I don't see why the colors should be different. GL!
#37
Just did the hardwire yesterday to the auto dimming mirror. Very easy to do. I used Skeeter's instructions but I attached the ground wire via a T-tap connector to the brown wire in the cluster of wires going to the mirror since I have a 997.2 Cabriolet in which I couldnt get a good ground via a screw....
#39
http://www.valentine1.com/savvy/
#40
I just did this and it came out nicely. It took a while as I'm fairly **** about wiring so I made a little custom harness out of the hardwire kit I got with the G-bracket. This way the wire wasn't excessively long and on the ground side I soldered and shink-wrapped the connector. A couple of tips:
1) I did use a wire tap for the hot side but got the red (smaller) one as advised above. The blue one is for much thicker gauge wire and is not a good plan. I would have rather used a different connection but there's so little space and visibility up there it's tough to work. I also wrapped the tap snugly in electrical tape for added strength and safeguard against shorts.
2) I had to scratch-up the paint a little around the ground point to get a good connection. Paint is an insulator...you want a metal-to-metal connection.
3) I tucked the wire into the little 'tube' coming from the headliner to the mirror instead of zip-tying to the outside of it. Easy, and much cleaner-looking IMO.
Thanks for the great article!
1) I did use a wire tap for the hot side but got the red (smaller) one as advised above. The blue one is for much thicker gauge wire and is not a good plan. I would have rather used a different connection but there's so little space and visibility up there it's tough to work. I also wrapped the tap snugly in electrical tape for added strength and safeguard against shorts.
2) I had to scratch-up the paint a little around the ground point to get a good connection. Paint is an insulator...you want a metal-to-metal connection.
3) I tucked the wire into the little 'tube' coming from the headliner to the mirror instead of zip-tying to the outside of it. Easy, and much cleaner-looking IMO.
Thanks for the great article!
Last edited by cjcam930; 05-04-2014 at 04:32 PM.
#41
Another grounding wire solution
Great posts on the V1 hardwire for self-dimming mirror applications. I used a slightly different solution to the grounding wire challenge, without tapping into any sunroof-related hardware. For the same location on the original excellent post (right side retaining screw for the overhead lighting cover), I first cut and replaced the open ended connector that came with the V1 hardwire kit with a flat closed loop connector (flat being the important consideration). I used a 2" piece of Scotch tape to hold it in position over the existing hole, then screwed right through the tape during the re-installation. No problems...
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