I can't wait to get my turbo S now.

 

I hear ya!!!!!!!!!! Been waiting since Feb. Actually Dec. Can't wait for this year to end.

 

Some thoughts on break in

https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...t-reality.html

 

Bob,

I believe the OM states 3000 km not 2000. I will check back today and reconfirm.

 

My Aussie OM says on page 8 (which btw is the very start of the manual).
Says:

During the first 3,000km (1,865 miles) you should:

*Preferabley take longer trips
*Avoid frequent cold starts with short distance driving whenever possible.
*NoT participate in motor racing events, sports driving schools or similar.
*Avoid high engine speeds, especially when the engine is cold.

Then again what would P know anyway.... I think next time i will throw my OM straight in the bin .

Here is another piece of completely worthless information from the manufacturer printed just above those running in pointers:

Despite the most modern, high precision manufacturing methods, the "wearing in" of moving parts with each other cannot be completely avoided.
This wearing in occurs mainly in the first 3,000km (1,865 miles)

Now what sensible person would ever take notice of that?

yes... the world is sure full of experts . Its a topic that could just run and run and run....

Btw I really love the bit on the salesmans advice. Dont ya just luv it .
And, then there's the advice from the workshop mechanic and other expendible help . Well you can hardly blame them....they have to make a living somehow .

 

I can reconfirm Speedy's post.

My OM says 3000 kms as well.

 

With all due respects, anybody who is smart enough to own one of these cars should also be smart enough to respect their investment and the engineering knowledge of the company making the product...and follow the company's advice on breaking in the product. The crystal metallurgy of the engine, the seating of bearings and rings, etc...all are designed to be "cooked" at proper temperatures that correspond to factory-suggested engine rpms (in the Turbo S's case, the company suggests 4200 rpm on drives and I'd strongly suggest driving in Normal- not Sport/Plus- to assure that happens).

Here is my break-in two week story:
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...ed-driven.html

During break in, I was sick to hit the rev-limiter in Sport Plus once at 1500 miles when I was passing on a mountain road and paying too much attention to things besides the rpm. I should have been in Sport then AND I should have been a better driver!

I put 2000 miles on my car in two weeks JUST so I'd be ready to change the oil and two days later be at the track, pushing the car as hard as it could go (at 2300 miles). On track, I hit the rev-limiter three times- which in my opinion is sloppy driving and I shouldn't be there again, since the torque plateau is well below 6000 and the limiter is at 7000. On track, I found 2-3 gear shifts as low as 3000 rpm were effective and in the higher gears, 5000 -range shifts were the sweetest. On the straights, I'd pull 6th all the way into the just-below 6000 range (which is where hp plateaus anyway. In my opinion, there is hardly any reason to run these engines- ever- above 5000 rpm, since there's hardly any gain in torque and hp.

I plan to do launch control ONCE and videotape it with multiple cameras and 3-channel data capture like I was using at the track.
The Youtube video has HD and I recommend it be viewed that way, to see the channel data more clearly.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BefrwB7B1L8

 

Yikes. Note to self...avoid Wyoming.

 

I asked the Porsche service manager and head technician, with 30+ years working for Porsche if he has ever seen a problem with a car related to improper break in. The answer was no. They told me that the engine is run up to max power for quite a while before ever installing it into the car. They suggested not launching the car and just take it easy for a while until the car has been through a few heat cycles.

For what it's worth...

I just watched the National Geographic Ultimate Factories show on the 911.. While it was not specific about the Turbo it did show that the engine was spun statically for a bit before installation of the intake. They show the car getting gassed and fired up at the end of the line for the first time. There is a short rolling test and then final inspection. No break in that I could see..

 

Pretty well sums it up. Anyone wishing to question the OM really should direct their questions via the appropriate chanels at Porsche AG engine development. Car salesman and 30 year technicians not included.

FWIW I doubt any level of driver abuse will cause a new P engine to fail so the 30 year tech has a point to a degree.

Dyno running a new engine gives a preliminary sealing of the rings and gives confirmation on certain aspects of the engine sought to be tested. The duration on the dyno is also relevant hence why i suspect P stipulates there is a further 1865 miles worth of specific (recommended) operation required to acheive a "full" and "correct run in".
Also, a new engine on a dyno is operated at set parameters (established through prior testings of prototypes) to acheive a given result. That is unless it has been set up to be tested to yeild/failure. An engine which has been driven ruthlessly from day one won't necessarily fail or "give a problem" however if the engine was operated correctly during break in, it will most likely "perform better" over the long haul than one which has not. "Performance" also includes such things as oil consumption and longevity of all internal components. I guess it ultimately gets down to how long you plan keeping your car outside of its warranted period. Many P owners (myself included) only hold the car for a few years so, operating it by the book may not be essential. Usually problems surface in the hands of the second or third owner once the car is out of warranty.

 

Please enlighten me on this.

Same year. Same engine. The "crystal metallurgy" must be different somehow, lol.

 

Yes...would agree that one is a loose end. (the two different OM mileage statements).

Yes, maybe that "crystal metallurgy" has changed between print jobs .

One thing that hasnt changed though is the statement :- "The following tips will be helpfull in obtaining optimum performance from your new Porsche".
Note the words "optimum performance". And, whilst i totally subscribe to what they (P) say I also believe there is such things as a (sensible) balance and moderation in the way you treat a new piece of very expensive equipment, even though it could be said it ultimately comes down to how long you intend holding your car from new and, how much do you really care about the next victim's problems. I always like to think i got my moneys worth when i sell mine on as do most.

To be honest i dont go precisely by the book even though i have a great appreciation and respect for engines and all things mechanical .
From new there has been and is always the rare full noise burst in 1st or second and i still manage to sleep OK at nights . Naturally the frequency of those full noise bursts increases along with time and mileage . As it should!! No point even buying a car like this to nanna about in!!

So long as there is a healthy "balance", all usually works out just fine and dandy . Btw mine doesn't drink a quart of oil every 1000k's either like i've heard some apparenty do .

 

Good catch! I guess the conclusion is Porsche builds precision sports cars, not owners' manuals.

 

I'd go along with that one .

 

Very interesting difference in suggesting 1000-2000 miles of break-in!
Maybe the difference reflects the company's experience in litigation and warranty expense in different global markets (with the litigious U.S. market getting the advisory to do the longer break-in period, so the owner HAS to get more familiar with the car- avoiding top-revving abuses.

I apologize for sounding like some kind of "crystal planet" chat room expert. but I didn't know how else to properly- concisely- recount this:
A friend of mine is a physicist and car enthusiast and when I told him about my break in period and questioned it, his remark was that metal is a crystal-like molecule (in the case of the alloy in the new 3.8 engine in the Turbo, the alloy's metal matrix incorporates "alusil" instead of nickle-based heat protection "nickasil":
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alusil
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nikasil

My friend's observation about the break-in was that the coatings (ie above) and molecular structures of the metal crystals basically were designed to be heat-annealed for maximum hardness at a pre-planned schedule of heat/cool cycles (at optimal heat levels, ie "speeds generally below 4200rpm" per the owners manual) . You'll notice in the following link that in the second sentence, the words "the recrystallization temperature" (suggesting that some kind of "crystal" reference to metals is appropriate- even from a guy who doesn't REALLY know what he's talking about
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Annealing_(metallurgy)

In case that link doesn't take you to the quote, here it is in full:
Annealing, in metallurgy and materials science, is a heat treatment wherein a material is altered, causing changes in its properties such as strength and hardness. It is a process that produces conditions by heating to above the recrystallization temperature and maintaining a suitable temperature, and then cooling. Annealing is used to induce ductility, soften material, relieve internal stresses, refine the structure by making it homogeneous, and improve cold working properties.

So, I rest my point.
Superman came from the Planet with all those crystals.
My car's engine is made out of glass!
I want to know how the alien's Area 51 "crystal" technology got to Stuttgart!
I better call the President!