997 Turbo / GT2 2006–2012 Turbo discussion on the 997 model Porsche 911 Twin Turbo.
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Old Jan 28, 2011 | 04:36 PM
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Originally Posted by The Bogg
Thanks for the tip. Gotta love Canadian Tire. They have the rhino ramps on sale this weekend but after seeing Bob's picture using the axle stands I'll just use the set I have. I could jack up the car from the block but since CT has a jack set on sale for $39 (including jack, axle stands (which I don't need) and chocks) I'll get it and use your method. I already have a low-profile racing jack.

My wife was shopping across the border in Buffalo last weekend so I told her to try and get some Mobil 1 in larger containers. They didn't have it in Walmart but they did have the 946mL ones for 6 and a half bucks. I told her to buy as many as they have, but they only had 10 or so, but that's still a lot cheaper than the 11 dollars a bottle here (although I did see them on sale for 7 bucks here last year - I'll buy more when they do it again). Oh boy, I can just see the money piling up from all the saving here on just oil changes. heck, I'm gonna splurge and change the oil twice a year!

Good job you didn't buy that ramp at canadian tire. I bought a set few months ago and it won't work with our cars because the rear tires are wider than the ramps. I tried to return it, but they won't take it back because I used it.

I changed my oil 2 times last year in 12k kms. I now switched to Mobil 1 Turbo diesel 5w-40. you can buy them at wal-mark or canadian tire for around 45 bucks for 5 liters.

I also have 24 bottles of Valvoline VR1 20W-50 racing oil in my garage that Todd recommonded. I haven't got the ***** to put it in the car yet, but that oil was cheap. 145 dollars for 24 bottles include shipping.
 
Old Jan 28, 2011 | 04:37 PM
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Originally Posted by emadelta86
When I leave it in the garage for more than 15days I pull the fuel pump fuse and cranck it for 5-6 seconds, then let the starter cool a bit, then another 5-6 seconds to get the oil pressure up. And then put the fuse back in and start the car.

As for fluids...if you don't allow the engine to get to full temperature, gas will condensate on the cilynder walls and cause the oil to become acid over time.
Some oils are more resistant to this than others. Racing oils for example, are not good for frequent start/stop driving.
Thanks for the info!
 
Old Jan 28, 2011 | 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Abby997TT
Good job you didn't buy that ramp at canadian tire. I bought a set few months ago and it won't work with our cars because the rear tires are wider than the ramps. I tried to return it, but they won't take it back because I used it.

I changed my oil 2 times last year in 12k kms. I now switched to Mobil 1 Turbo diesel 5w-40. you can buy them at wal-mark or canadian tire for around 45 bucks for 5 liters.

I also have 24 bottles of Valvoline VR1 20W-50 racing oil in my garage that Todd recommonded. I haven't got the ***** to put it in the car yet, but that oil was cheap. 145 dollars for 24 bottles include shipping.
I knew that the rear tires were wider than recommended but figured it was no biggie for the 1 hour or so they might be on them (if that long). But I'll pass on them now anyway.

5w-40 eh? Probably just fine since I don't drive the car below 0 celsius anyway.
 
Old Jan 29, 2011 | 12:50 AM
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Well, because the ramps are flared at the edges, I couldn't even get the car on them.
yea, 5w-40 will be fine all year around. I will probably try some motul 300v 5w-40 in the summer.
 
Old Jan 29, 2011 | 07:15 AM
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Originally Posted by bbywu
Good info.

When I start my GT2 now, I always let it run to operating temperature (oil and engine temperature both.)

bob

that's still not enough. you need to put the engine under a load to burn the condensation out of the oil and exhaust system.

the last drive of the year should be hard to get everything nice and hot then leave it until spring.
 
Old Jan 29, 2011 | 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Abby997TT
Well, because the ramps are flared at the edges, I couldn't even get the car on them.
yea, 5w-40 will be fine all year around. I will probably try some motul 300v 5w-40 in the summer.
Ooooh, I hadn't looked that close to see that the edges were flared. lol, thanks for saving me 50 bucks.
 
Old Jan 29, 2011 | 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by dwags
that's still not enough. you need to put the engine under a load to burn the condensation out of the oil and exhaust system.
And why is that?
 
Old Jan 29, 2011 | 12:37 PM
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Originally Posted by TTdude
And why is that?
+1

I do not understand what engine load has to do with engine temperature. If my engine is at 230 when driven at Road America, or 230 in my garage, how does my engine know the difference?

bob
 
Old Jan 29, 2011 | 02:24 PM
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Pretty good thread....i wasn't too sure about how to properly store as well.
My garage is heated, so i figured the temps outside won't factor in.
I basically kept tire pressure at 50psi and fire her up once or twice a week and run her up to temp whenever the weather permits.
 
Old Jan 29, 2011 | 02:59 PM
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Originally Posted by TTdude
And why is that?
it's the oil that needs to get above 212 to burn off moisture. oil is hottest in the main bearings where it is under the most load.

the coolant temp sensor is where? has it cooled below 212 before it gets to the oil cooler? i don't know. if the coolant is less than 212 in the oil cooler then you better make sure the oil temp sensor is over 212.

the cats are not going to be happy burning when they work the hardest(cold startup) without cooling air from a moving car.

ever see a car that spits out water as it accelerates onto the highway? that's condensation that has built up in a cold exhaust on a cold day. how sure are you that the entire exhaust system is over 212?

if your not going to drive it, leave it alone. just leave the car in 4th gear and give the car a bump every week to keep the rings from sticking.
 
Old Jan 29, 2011 | 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Abby997TT
Good job you didn't buy that ramp at canadian tire. I bought a set few months ago and it won't work with our cars because the rear tires are wider than the ramps. I tried to return it, but they won't take it back because I used it.

I changed my oil 2 times last year in 12k kms. I now switched to Mobil 1 Turbo diesel 5w-40. you can buy them at wal-mark or canadian tire for around 45 bucks for 5 liters.

I also have 24 bottles of Valvoline VR1 20W-50 racing oil in my garage that Todd recommonded. I haven't got the ***** to put it in the car yet, but that oil was cheap. 145 dollars for 24 bottles include shipping.
I dont think A Diesel 5W-40 is going to be good for our Porsche's. They have extremely high concentrations of cleaning additives to clean/remove soot from a diesel engine. I just dont know what it would do to the seals in a gas motor. just my .02

I run M1 0W-40, I live in FL never gets below 40*F, and my car loves it. And I run the BMW Oil (Castrol) 10W-60 when tracking the car.
 
Old Jan 29, 2011 | 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by dwags
it's the oil that needs to get above 212 to burn off moisture. oil is hottest in the main bearings where it is under the most load.

the coolant temp sensor is where? has it cooled below 212 before it gets to the oil cooler? i don't know. if the coolant is less than 212 in the oil cooler then you better make sure the oil temp sensor is over 212.

the cats are not going to be happy burning when they work the hardest(cold startup) without cooling air from a moving car.

ever see a car that spits out water as it accelerates onto the highway? that's condensation that has built up in a cold exhaust on a cold day. how sure are you that the entire exhaust system is over 212?

if your not going to drive it, leave it alone. just leave the car in 4th gear and give the car a bump every week to keep the rings from sticking.
Why 4th? Is there a special reason?
 
Old Jan 29, 2011 | 08:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Porsche997TT
I dont think A Diesel 5W-40 is going to be good for our Porsche's. They have extremely high concentrations of cleaning additives to clean/remove soot from a diesel engine. I just dont know what it would do to the seals in a gas motor. just my .02

I run M1 0W-40, I live in FL never gets below 40*F, and my car loves it. And I run the BMW Oil (Castrol) 10W-60 when tracking the car.
The mobil 1 TDT 5w-40 is also gasoline engine approved. I did alot of reading on posts made by Doug Hillary regarding this matter; that's why I made the switch.
 
Old Jan 29, 2011 | 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by quattrogeek
Pretty good thread....i wasn't too sure about how to properly store as well.
My garage is heated, so i figured the temps outside won't factor in.
I basically kept tire pressure at 50psi and fire her up once or twice a week and run her up to temp whenever the weather permits.
We should do a cruise soon when the sun comes out.
 
Old Jan 29, 2011 | 10:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Porsche997TT
Why 4th? Is there a special reason?

4th is what i was told. 1st does not have enough mech advantage to spin the engine and 6th might not move the pistons enough in just a couple inch bump. that would be my guess.
 


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