AWE is great...Protomotive made mine and it's fantastic...I'm running about the same power as you and it's simply perfect!

 

Mike, I'm looking to move forward with the clutch, however I'd like to post a question to you and the rest of the folks on here...
Is there a service center / or a distributor just over the border or in Seattle, that comes recommended, where the clutch could be sent for pickup or even fitment. Being in Vancouver Canada - trying to avoid unnecessary taxes/fees where possible, and I could quickly zip over the border to pick it up.

Also, on average, how many hours should be allotted for the operation, to replace a clutch on an '07tt - I've had some large numbers thrown at me, trying to get an idea how real they are.

Thanks!

 

There are a few WA folks here on line who could help you with good installers in your area. You may want to PM Jason (atomic80) or Larry (HUMMM 3) - they've helped me out in the past.

b

 

Thanks bbywu - will contact them for sure

Just have another question - given that the car has 70,000 km (43,000 miles) is it advisable to change out the flywheel at the same time the clutch is replaced, or can I simply use the dual mass OEM one - which I would prefer, to keep costs down. Would the "mating" between the clutch and a worn flywheel be a concern?
...Also what other components would need to be replaced at the same time... clutch fork?
Curious to hear form folks that have gone through this and their leanings.

 

Can you email me your phone number? I would like to call you and discuss.

I just took and order for two kits going to Washington state. Wondering if we can add your order as a 3rd.

mike@awe-tuning.com

 

When you say sllppage....is this occasionally on hard acceleration? Maybe even dependent on road surace? I find my 07 doing that (40K miles) when I accelerate hard especially in second gear, but I keep thinking it is the rear tires slipping because of low tread. I have the limited slip, but I remember back with my first set of tires, this same slippage crap was occurring until I got new tires for the rear. I guess you can use the classic test....to keep it in first, while accelerating with the brake on to see if the engine races but I hate to do that with my clutch because it can do the clutch nothing but harm.

 

easy to test in higher gears at lower speeds

 

Good point. Never considered that. But slippage there means 100% bad news. I thought you might get slippage on hard acceleration in 1st/snd gear even tho not evident in higher gears with low speed acceleration, bu that most likely is not true....clutch is shot or not, not intermediate phase.

 

I live just across the border here in WA (Bellevue). I have similar power mods as the OP. I'm running the Stage 3 clutch from ClutchMasters and the LWFW as well. It's not an easy clutch for 'lazy' driving...especially from a stop. Not hard, but requires a little more gas that usual. The clutch engagement is also near the top of the 'throw' and is very abrupt. Not enough gas and you're sure to stall. Many friends have laughed at me assuming I just couldn't drive only to almost kill us in an intersection as they tried (and failed) to drive smoothly.

 

Get a 764 pressure plate.

 

johnww:
Yup, the slippage occurs, generally in 3rd gear at around 4000 rpm +

Mike Awe Tuning:
Just sent you an email

I thought I would repeat this question as it is an important one to me...
...given that the car has 70,000 km (43,000 miles) is it advisable to change out the flywheel at the same time the clutch is replaced, or can I simply use the dual mass OEM one. I would prefer not to change out the fly wheel to keep costs down but am afraid that if it has wear, it may impact the performance of the new components - does any one have experience with this? Would the "mating" between the clutch and a worn flywheel be a concern?
...Also what other components would need to be replaced at the same time... clutch fork?
Curious to hear form folks that have gone through this (specifically the experts) and their leanings.

 

Put a tune in and the clutch will be a goner in no time at all, if not immediately.

You have a dual mass flywheel now. With 70K and with slippage happening chances are the flywheel is gone but you won't know that for sure until its out. The dual mass flywheel is very thin on the face so it warps very easily especially if it has been subjected to heat. Once it has any degree of warpage thats it....put a new one in. Thats why it pays to put the clutch in first before the tune. Anyways..

Sachs Pressure Plate P/N: 88 3082 999 764 and Sachs clutch plate P/N: 88164 999 973 is a definate need plus a thrust bearing and thats pretty well it.....unless you need a new flywheel as well. The rest is labour.

PS. You're better off flashing back to stock after you fit the new clutch and go very easy on it for @ 1000kms so to allow it to bed it in properly. Avoid any full throttle hits from low rpms especially when in the upper gears .

 

Yup, I did it all backwards... took me a while to get my tune finalized and by the time it was in, the plugs went, and then the clutch - immediately after! :P

Excellent - thanks. I'm assuming the pressure plate, clutch plate and thrust bearing are all part of the 2,5 kit Awe is selling? I was told that I may need a clutch fork too. Any one know anything about that - and at ~$350 for the part, I'd like to be sure that it's absolutely necessary.

 

Necro-reviving an old thread. Pureporsche - noticed your .sig indicates that you went with the AWE Stage 2.5 kit. Curious to hear your impressions.

Did you change out the flywheel and release fork as well? I've held off on a tune so far, but need to do plugs/clutch/etc. Considering a GT2 slave conversion too.

 

My car has Stage 3 upgrade & I had significant issues with driveability on the Sachs Stage 3. Changed to clutch masters with kevlar/fibertough disc & like that alot more. Car seems quite reasonable to drive in the city. Oh, & had to have slave cylinder done before, but that's not an uncommon issue with these cars.