great thread idea and write up.

 

If you're after the ultimate in performance, the tip will outdo the 6MT. Just think about executing a 1-2 shift without losing boost inside of the 3.8 second 0 to 60.
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Food for thought, how many times do you brake launch? Thats the only time a Tip will take off from a 6 speed car. From a roll, even 5mph, the 6 speed will move out quicker. Mash it from a dead stop (no brake launch) and a 6 speed will also walk away from a tip.

Note this was a 2007 Tip vs. my 2008 Turbo, tip had 23k at the time, mine 3k - both stock at the time.

 

Thanks for the comments, glad I could give back to all I learned here.

On the overrev topic, it has been discussed many times but I don't think I have seen an explanation of the misshift mechanics. I imagine that if you miss a downshift and connect the wheels to the engine in a combination that is bad like 2nd gear and 80mph, the momentum of the car and wheels will spin the engine rather than the other way around. When you notice and push the clutch, it is too late. So even with a rev limiter cutting fuel or ignition or whatever, the components will still be spinning above design limits. From what I have read, the Tip will refuse this combination. I also noticed a rev limiter on the first rainy day of the season in NorCal. It spun so freely up to the limit. yikes.

@gmoney On the 6MT vs Tip acceleration. I certainly have been slow at learning how to launch and 1st gear is really short. My statement came from posts and my struggle with how fast you need to shift to stay in boost power. I think Porsche as well publishes slightly faster times for Tip over 6MT. I test drove a 11 PDK C2S before I bought and that was smooth and fast, but, I'm sorry, boring compared to manual intervention. I actually never drove an 08tt Tip, and haven't tried a race, but I'd like to beat a tip some day when I'm good...

 

@jhbrennan Yes, I did use Porsche CNA first.
http://www.porsche.com/usa/pre-owned-vehicles/search/

Then I went to the dealers own website which usually had a carfax link. I frequently found cars were being listed before pictures were ready or CPO work was done. Then I sicked my broker at them and waited for details. Then when the listing disappeared, I called my broker who would say " they didn't send the DME info yet, but the car sold"... depressing as I had just gotten to like the option list...

 

GREAT post

Bob,

This needs a sticky!


Jim

 

I will say though that the allure of the PDK is strong and will give that a try next time around.

 

Bookmarked for future use. THANKS.

 

Thank you for sharing.

I'm in the market and this is very helpful information.

 

Porsche dealer just did a Pre Purchase Inspection for me and the monkey in the service dept missed few things that needed attention. When i brought it up with the service adviser,i was told it should ultimately be my responsibility to make sure every thing is fine with the car. They are not taking any responsibility with the PPI at all

I am taking it up with them and will disclosing their name soon

 

The only other thing I can add is if you opt for the GT1 engine (in a Turbo) listen for excessive IMS noise (intermediate shaft). Its obvious if you listen with the engine at idle and it sounds like "marbles churning" when it gets bad. If its minor as is common and acceptable with many GT1 engines have the dealer remove the engine filter and inspect it for metal shavings. If its major stay away and look at another car. This could save you major $$$ down the road. Without a warranty it could set you back close to $40k to have a new engine installed.

 

grady I think that it may appear you are overstating here. It can be acceptable when minor and detrimental when major? How can one define minor and major? My minor could be major to your ears especially if you haven't heard this before.

My info and research shows that it is normal for the GT1 block, and part of the nature of the engine, which is also very efficient as there are no chain tensioners or belts or chains for that matter, but gears that drive the shaft. And these gears develop or have some inherent play. This is my simple way of understanding or even trying to explain it in simple terms.

It is my opinion, and I stress that, that it will take a whole lot of beating for these gears to a. shave to the filter in a visible manner and b. create such differences in tolerance to lead to a need for engine replacement. This is a block that has been tuned like crazy, has been abused immensely, and continues to be very reliable and strong through many years and iterations.

I understand that it is good to warn potential buyers of issues, but this is a highly technical matter which requires a lot of reading and should not be covered in a three line warning which includes the terms "minor" and "major" describing a noise.

Pls do not misunderstand my comments, its all in the good and helpful nature of this post.

 

Wow, this is an excellent write up. Great framing and well executed. Congrats on the purchase.

 

You are correct. This is an issue that can only be understood by doing a search on the boards. If you do a search you will find a lot of posts relating to the subject. Describing it in a short post is very difficult but if I were looking for a used 996 or 997 TT it would be something I would want to be aware of. The best thing you can do is inspect the oil filter for metal shavings but that is not always possible. The noise by itself is minor but the noise combined with metal shavings is when minor could escalate to major in short time. On the plus side the majority of these engines are very reliable. Some members have posted upwards of 300,000 miles on the clock.

 

extremely well done post.

the only thing I would add under "geography" is that it might be better to check the carfax to see what state(s) the car was registered in, once you have narrowed down your options. to just go by the dealer location may be risky because I've seen cars shipped all over the country in dealer trades and auctions

 

Great research and write up.

While searching I always pull the service records from the dealer. All dealers have access and may or may not pull the data for you. Items and work performed do not all show up on Carfax