Cargraphic Loud Exhaust
I think we should be cautious in choosing an exhaust based on how "well" it obliterates the Check Engine Light. There are 2 situations that could trigger this light:
1. The cat converter is bad.
2. The ECU tune is bad and is running too rich or too lean.
I do agree that in the first situation, you want to get rid of the exhaust. With 2, it has never been cleared to me what the correct answer is. The ECU depends on information from both pre cat and post cat O2 sensors and alters fuel mixture accordingly; is it then a good idea to design an exhaust that would never trigger an alarm? How do you know whatever method that is used has not altered the information that is fed to the ECU?
In short, the post cat sensor is there to monitor exhaust gas, true, but more importantly, the O2 sensors are actually feeding information to the ECU to allow it to run properly, is it a good idwea to alter its function or its alarm? Is it ok to get rid of *all* alarms, including the real one that is telling you the ECU programming is not running correctly?It's a complicated issue that I don't profess to know the answer, just more questions. There are many discussions on this topic, but a basic one is below from "How Stuffs Work" LOL:
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
*Th*e oxygen sensor is positioned in the exhaust pipe and can detect rich and lean mixtures. The mechanism in most sensors involves a chemical reaction that generates a voltage (see the patents below for details). The engine's computer looks at the voltage to determine if the mixture is rich or lean, and adjusts the amount of fuel entering the engine accordingly.
The reason why the engine needs the oxygen sensor is because the amount of oxygen that the engine can pull in depends on all sorts of things, such as the altitude, the temperature of the air, the temperature of the engine, the barometric pressure, the load on the engine, etc.
When the oxygen sensor fails, the computer can no longer sense the air/fuel ratio, so it ends up guessing. Your car performs poorly and uses more fuel than it needs to.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
1. The cat converter is bad.
2. The ECU tune is bad and is running too rich or too lean.
I do agree that in the first situation, you want to get rid of the exhaust. With 2, it has never been cleared to me what the correct answer is. The ECU depends on information from both pre cat and post cat O2 sensors and alters fuel mixture accordingly; is it then a good idea to design an exhaust that would never trigger an alarm? How do you know whatever method that is used has not altered the information that is fed to the ECU?
In short, the post cat sensor is there to monitor exhaust gas, true, but more importantly, the O2 sensors are actually feeding information to the ECU to allow it to run properly, is it a good idwea to alter its function or its alarm? Is it ok to get rid of *all* alarms, including the real one that is telling you the ECU programming is not running correctly?It's a complicated issue that I don't profess to know the answer, just more questions. There are many discussions on this topic, but a basic one is below from "How Stuffs Work" LOL:
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
*Th*e oxygen sensor is positioned in the exhaust pipe and can detect rich and lean mixtures. The mechanism in most sensors involves a chemical reaction that generates a voltage (see the patents below for details). The engine's computer looks at the voltage to determine if the mixture is rich or lean, and adjusts the amount of fuel entering the engine accordingly.
The reason why the engine needs the oxygen sensor is because the amount of oxygen that the engine can pull in depends on all sorts of things, such as the altitude, the temperature of the air, the temperature of the engine, the barometric pressure, the load on the engine, etc.
When the oxygen sensor fails, the computer can no longer sense the air/fuel ratio, so it ends up guessing. Your car performs poorly and uses more fuel than it needs to.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
The post cat sensors only check if the cat is doing its job, my Cargraphic worked just fine but over time it triggered non stop CEL's. This has occured on many exhausts, do a search on this forum...and most, if not all, use the same cat. There were rumors of HJS making a few revisions to their cats as they did not perform well over time.
The cat dimensions, o2 placement and exhaust pipe design all come into play in not triggering CEL's. It would seem general opinion from owners is that the EP1 does not generate codes, not one has been reported from a 997TT owner on here anyways.
The cat dimensions, o2 placement and exhaust pipe design all come into play in not triggering CEL's. It would seem general opinion from owners is that the EP1 does not generate codes, not one has been reported from a 997TT owner on here anyways.
The post cat sensors only check if the cat is doing its job, my Cargraphic worked just fine but over time it triggered non stop CEL's. This has occured on many exhausts, do a search on this forum...and most, if not all, use the same cat. There were rumors of HJS making a few revisions to their cats as they did not perform well over time.
The cat dimensions, o2 placement and exhaust pipe design all come into play in not triggering CEL's. It would seem general opinion from owners is that the EP1 does not generate codes, not one has been reported from a 997TT owner on here anyways.
The cat dimensions, o2 placement and exhaust pipe design all come into play in not triggering CEL's. It would seem general opinion from owners is that the EP1 does not generate codes, not one has been reported from a 997TT owner on here anyways.
The HJS rumor mentioned is that, speculative rumor not mentioned by anyone else. Cargraphic uses third party Emitec core (substrate) and HJS cat (the gold standard and same as what is used in OEM Porsche exhaust AFAIK - anyone pls correct as needed); there are any number of reasons any design (car, watch, camera, etc.) could change over the years, but to imply one event in one car -->hence problem with a third party core/cat used across the board by multiple companies-->hence modification needed and was done, is for me a little too far-fetched to be believed and repeated repeatedly. It would be nice to see a reliable for this news.
IMHO, both EP and Cargraphic are excellent exhausts and the ultimate decision will come down to the sound of the exhaust, more specifically the loudness. (The other "data", more horsepower, etc., are speculative/anecdotal to me and have not been proven by a trustworthy third party.) If you want a more quiet exhaust, then EP, especially EP1, is a good choice. If you want more loudness and more aggressiveness, then lean towards EP2, and eventually Cargraphic for the most aggressive. The loudness choice is of course purely personal and there is no right or wrong - what is just right for one could be way too loud for another.
For OP, I would caution that closest alternative to Cargraphic Loud is not EP1, but EP2. Reading between the lines of many good reports here and from reliable sources, if I were to get EP, it would be the EP2. For me, even EP2 might not be loud enough, but EP1 is definitely out. Make sure you take a listen in person, especially with windows up because that's likely how you'll be driving most of the times.
Last edited by cannga; Jan 11, 2013 at 03:08 AM.
Stock 997TT exhausts have triggered CELs, Ive read the installation of an EP1 has fixed that CEL even. Same with the Cayman in 2006 I believe, 400 CPI cats causing issues, changed to 600 and no more problems during production.
Look at the location of the post cat o2 sensor on Cargraphic and compare to the Europipe, it sits higher in the EP. Not unlike the extensions used to make catless cars not trigger codes.
Look at the location of the post cat o2 sensor on Cargraphic and compare to the Europipe, it sits higher in the EP. Not unlike the extensions used to make catless cars not trigger codes.
For OP, I would caution that closest alternative to Cargraphic Loud is not EP1, but EP2. Reading between the lines of many good reports here and from reliable sources, if I were to get EP, it would be the EP2. For me, even EP2 might not be loud enough, but EP1 is definitely out. Make sure you take a listen in person, especially with windows up because that's likely how you'll be driving most of the times.
watch the following on your computer with the speakers turned up (and for god's sake don't watch it on your phone with the tiny speakers
):and just to be clear, I'm only trying to be helpful by providing information. No intention to engage in a debate about which exhaust is better, I've heard multiple aftermarket exhausts and they were all much better than stock so hard to lose with any of them IMO
Amen on the EP1...no problems with sensors setting lights on dash. Had problem big time with the factory cats after 35K miles.......no issues what-so-ever with EP1. Really a fine exhaust and worth the money, if for nothing else no more dash lights problems which can be a real pain.
not to pollute this thread with Europipe posts but I'd just comment that the post you're referring to regarding the "loudness" of an EP1 with the windows rolled up is mine. But these are very subjective comments, and to be clear my "windows up" comment was referring to the sound at idle or light throttle. under throttle the EP1 is not quiet by any means
watch the following on your computer with the speakers turned up (and for god's sake don't watch it on your phone with the tiny speakers
):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hax1CPPgUSE
and just to be clear, I'm only trying to be helpful by providing information. No intention to engage in a debate about which exhaust is better, I've heard multiple aftermarket exhausts and they were all much better than stock so hard to lose with any of them IMO
watch the following on your computer with the speakers turned up (and for god's sake don't watch it on your phone with the tiny speakers
):http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hax1CPPgUSE
and just to be clear, I'm only trying to be helpful by providing information. No intention to engage in a debate about which exhaust is better, I've heard multiple aftermarket exhausts and they were all much better than stock so hard to lose with any of them IMO
Last edited by johnww; Jan 11, 2013 at 11:06 PM.
The post cat sensors only check if the cat is doing its job, my Cargraphic worked just fine but over time it triggered non stop CEL's. This has occured on many exhausts, do a search on this forum...and most, if not all, use the same cat. There were rumors of HJS making a few revisions to their cats as they did not perform well over time.
The cat dimensions, o2 placement and exhaust pipe design all come into play in not triggering CEL's. It would seem general opinion from owners is that the EP1 does not generate codes, not one has been reported from a 997TT owner on here anyways.
The cat dimensions, o2 placement and exhaust pipe design all come into play in not triggering CEL's. It would seem general opinion from owners is that the EP1 does not generate codes, not one has been reported from a 997TT owner on here anyways.
GMoney - any reason you chose the EP1 over the EP2? My car is likely not going to be heavily modded (I say that now). I really want the car to sound nice (and noticeable). Wasn't sure if when people say 'under throttle' they mean gunning it or simply accelerating normally. Not going to be able to listen to these in person so trying to make a call based on the feedback (I realize the risk in this). Just don't want the EP1 to be muted or remotely subtle... 

Stage 1 exhaust
- reuses the stock ø 60mm oval tailpipes (tailpipes not included)
- maximum backpressure: 0.18 Bar / 2.6 psi (stock exhaust: 0.44 Bar / 6.4 psi)
- minimum + 18 hp / + 22 Nm<!-- *********************** 997 Turbo Stage 1 *********************** -->
- price: 3480 Euro + sales tax / 4595 USD<!-- *********************** 997 Turbo Stage 1 *********************** -->
- comes with enlarged OEM chromed oval ø 76mm / ø 3 inch tailpipes
- maximum backpressure: 0.12 Bar / 1.75 psi (stock exhaust: 0.44 Bar / 6.4 psi)
- minimum + 20 hp / + 24 Nm
- not recommended on Tiptronic
- not recommended for owners with sensitive ears<!-- *********************** 997 Turbo Stage 2 *********************** -->
- price: 4180 Euro + sales tax
Last edited by jhbrennan; Jan 13, 2013 at 03:03 PM.
There is nothing magical or new about this trick, in principle or in practice. You are simply moving the post cat sensor further from the exhaust internal flow so as to trick the car computer into thinking that the O2 level at post cat (not pre cat) sensor is lower than it actually is. Low post cat O2 means effective catalytic conversion.
But again, the main point is that in your car the cat could have been damaged by, for example, an ECU mod and your experience while true is not clear-cut at all as to the cause. Advice regarding CEL light, or anything for that matter, is best not given based on these anecdotal reports until you are absolutely sure what *else* is going on in the car.
At this very moment we see another example of CEL with same ECU mod as yours, should we use these two examples to suggest "this tune causes the CEL"? No right?
Last edited by cannga; Jan 13, 2013 at 09:52 PM.
not to pollute this thread with Europipe posts but I'd just comment that the post you're referring to regarding the "loudness" of an EP1 with the windows rolled up is mine. But these are very subjective comments, and to be clear my "windows up" comment was referring to the sound at idle or light throttle. under throttle the EP1 is not quiet by any means
.......
and just to be clear, I'm only trying to be helpful by providing information. No intention to engage in a debate about which exhaust is better, I've heard multiple aftermarket exhausts and they were all much better than stock so hard to lose with any of them IMO
.......
and just to be clear, I'm only trying to be helpful by providing information. No intention to engage in a debate about which exhaust is better, I've heard multiple aftermarket exhausts and they were all much better than stock so hard to lose with any of them IMO
Loudness is among the most important criteria in choosing exhausts and very personal. This alone is the reason there could *never* be a single best exhaust for everyone. What is right for me could be too loud for someone else; and then we have the gentlemen with the catless systems
. That said, it is my opinion that one should err on the louder side, at least among "medium loudness" exhaust. My opinion/observation is that while there are always exceptions, people *tend* to wish for more loudness over time of ownership.
With that in mind, while 99.9% of EP1 owners are happy, once in a while I do run into a report similar to yours that tells me if you want aggressive and loud sound, this is not the one. (Nothing wrong with this; it's designed that way.) If this is the case, as mentioned, EP2 is a better candidate and for even more "noise," Cargraphic Loud I believe is the most aggressive (about same at WOT as GT3 stock; you would never mistake Cargraphic Loud for stock). It's terrible to pay this much and not get the loudness that's right for you.
Last edited by cannga; Jan 13, 2013 at 09:57 PM.
Cannga, I have yet to see a report of a EVOMS tune fouling a converter. There are many possibilities in theory (bad gas for example) but CEL's across many exhausts brands are so common - including stock ones that my money is on the exhaust just not doing its job.
If stock exhausts cause the same CEL its almost guaranteed higher flow exhausts will do it as well. Except the EP with its obvious design difference and exhausts modded with tall sensor tubes or those who install the cat on o2 sensor devices.
If stock exhausts cause the same CEL its almost guaranteed higher flow exhausts will do it as well. Except the EP with its obvious design difference and exhausts modded with tall sensor tubes or those who install the cat on o2 sensor devices.
Redline, the EP1 is far from quiet, but it is quieter than the Cargraphic under normal driving (not full throttle). At full throttle I cant tell a difference between the pair, they are both menacing sounding in a good way.
The EP2 I would assume is more loud at part throttle, idle situations much like the Cargraphic. I chose EP1 because it blends the best of both worlds, not too loud just tooling around town, but clear its not a stock exhaust. Then under full throttle its beautiful sounding.
So long as you take the precautions and add longer o2 tubes or buy the o2 eliminators then any exhaust will be great, but if you want a plug and play no CEL solution my personal experience having owned both, the EP1 is the way to go.
The cargraphic sounded fantastic, but I prefer the sound of the EP1.
The EP2 I would assume is more loud at part throttle, idle situations much like the Cargraphic. I chose EP1 because it blends the best of both worlds, not too loud just tooling around town, but clear its not a stock exhaust. Then under full throttle its beautiful sounding.
So long as you take the precautions and add longer o2 tubes or buy the o2 eliminators then any exhaust will be great, but if you want a plug and play no CEL solution my personal experience having owned both, the EP1 is the way to go.
The cargraphic sounded fantastic, but I prefer the sound of the EP1.



