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Price on a 2012 TT with 1200 miles and CPO

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Old Jan 5, 2014 | 08:25 PM
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Price on a 2012 TT with 1200 miles and CPO

Guys, been looking, found a 2102 coupe, 6-speed, CPO, 1200 miles.

What would be fair? It's a dealer, he won't give it away.

No trade, keeping my 09 C2S, love the N/A sound, paid for, fresh tires, 26k miles, paint is still perfect.


A little help guys, not too many comps out there. Completely stock, no mods.
 
Old Jan 5, 2014 | 09:31 PM
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How is it equipped and what's their asking price?
 
Old Jan 6, 2014 | 07:48 AM
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Figure on 5k for the CPO and options make the difference, Ceramics, center locks, paint and leather can add up to 20k.
 
Old Jan 6, 2014 | 11:24 AM
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It heated/vent seats, sport chrono/dynamic mounts and parking assist (yippee), 19" Turbo II wheels, that's about it.

Fortunately, no CL wheels or ceramic brakes.
 
Old Jan 6, 2014 | 11:58 AM
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Based on my recent search for a car this lightly equipped example is worth about 120K. I'm sure they are asking 130+, but who pays asking price? These are quickly depreciating assets so the dealer is motivated to move the iron, it will be worth less next month.
BTW, I'm not sure I get the aversion to PCCB's and CL's. If the car it tracked I get it, but for a street car I like both options, particularly the PCCB's (they are unbelievably great brakes with pads every 35,000 mi and the rotors apparently last forever). In the case of the CL's I did have to invest about $400 on both a collapsable torque wrench (fits in the front trunk) and a long breaker bar. It's not that tough to remove a wheel and they look so cool.
 
Old Jan 6, 2014 | 12:23 PM
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I do love the look of centerlocks
 
Old Jan 6, 2014 | 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by 550bryan
Based on my recent search for a car this lightly equipped example is worth about 120K. I'm sure they are asking 130+, but who pays asking price? These are quickly depreciating assets so the dealer is motivated to move the iron, it will be worth less next month.
BTW, I'm not sure I get the aversion to PCCB's and CL's. If the car it tracked I get it, but for a street car I like both options, particularly the PCCB's (they are unbelievably great brakes with pads every 35,000 mi and the rotors apparently last forever). In the case of the CL's I did have to invest about $400 on both a collapsable torque wrench (fits in the front trunk) and a long breaker bar. It's not that tough to remove a wheel and they look so cool.

Thanks, that's about what I thought. Points taken re CL wheels (which do look better) and the PCCBs. $8k is a lot for better brakes. I can buy a ton of standard brakes for that.


Champion in Lauderdale has one 2014 TT on the lot, I believe that they had two last week. So, the 2012 is two model years old.

Thanks for the help. You are a lot closer than me, better idea of what west coast prices are/should be.
 
Old Jan 6, 2014 | 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by hot nikon
Thanks, that's about what I thought. Points taken re CL wheels (which do look better) and the PCCBs. $8k is a lot for better brakes. I can buy a ton of standard brakes for that.


Champion in Lauderdale has one 2014 TT on the lot, I believe that they had two last week. So, the 2012 is two model years old.

Thanks for the help. You are a lot closer than me, better idea of what west coast prices are/should be.
If you can afford the 2014 then go for that based on looks alone. I have a 997.2 and drool over the 991's...even if the engine/performance is similar.
 
Old Jan 6, 2014 | 12:53 PM
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Originally Posted by 550bryan
Based on my recent search for a car this lightly equipped example is worth about 120K. I'm sure they are asking 130+, but who pays asking price? These are quickly depreciating assets so the dealer is motivated to move the iron, it will be worth less next month.
BTW, I'm not sure I get the aversion to PCCB's and CL's. If the car it tracked I get it, but for a street car I like both options, particularly the PCCB's (they are unbelievably great brakes with pads every 35,000 mi and the rotors apparently last forever). In the case of the CL's I did have to invest about $400 on both a collapsable torque wrench (fits in the front trunk) and a long breaker bar. It's not that tough to remove a wheel and they look so cool.

I thought about the CL but with no spare I never for see ever removing the rims of the car myself. When it comes time to change the tires I will go with runflats. What is great about the PCCB's is not only the stopping power and the feel of the weight loss but the lack of dust on the rims and calipers.
 
Old Jan 6, 2014 | 01:42 PM
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Originally Posted by 90sundevil
I thought about the CL but with no spare I never for see ever removing the rims of the car myself. When it comes time to change the tires I will go with runflats. What is great about the PCCB's is not only the stopping power and the feel of the weight loss but the lack of dust on the rims and calipers.
I probably won't remove the rims much either but I wanted the tools for two reasons, first, in case I come out some morning to a flat tire (a not uncommon occurrence if you pick up a nail or something on yesterday's drive), it means either flatbedding the car, trying to air up the tire and get somewhere quickly on a leaking tire, or removing the rim to take it for repair, I prefer the latter. The long breaker bar is for removing the rim (not good on the calibration to use the torque wrench) and the torque wrench for both tightening and to carry in the car in case of an on the road issue. You can't assume everyone will have a proper wrench for removing the rim. It was worth the $400 or so for the flexibility and peace of mind.
Two other comments, I totally agree on the PCCB's, it would be hard to check the box on a new car order given the price, but when you buying a used car it's a no brainer IMHO, as you say great feel, no dust, lower unsprung weight, surprisingly no squeak thus far and they look so cool. Second, I'm not a fan of run flats, given their price, their tread life and their ride quality.
 
Old Jan 6, 2014 | 03:20 PM
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Happy to try to help. There are lots of other options, like a locking diff, adaptive lights, Sport Adaptive seats, so this is a lightly equipped car. I'm guessing the car is $139k. The dealer will want a huge premium for the mileage, which I never think is worth what they charge. You are paying for a car that has basically sat around for months, which is somehow never good for a car. The factory warranty is likely good for at least 2 more years, so the CPO in this case doesn't add much value (even though you basically get a 4 year warranty - will you own the car for 4 years).

I've shopped a lot for the '10-12 cars. I can tell you that there are very few 6 speeds. That may sound like a premium option, but I think those cars are really sitting for long periods of time. On the '10 plus everyone wants the PDK and most cars have it. While I have a 6 spd, I don't think it is sought after on the '10+ cars. Also, what is the color? If it is just a black 6 spd, the car is not that special except for the mileage. Depends what you are looking for. If you want a 6 speed, would be worthwhile to even look at .1 turbos. Really doubt you would consider a 991 if you are shopping a .2 - they are like $40-50k more money.

Side note to 90sundevil- runflats??? OMG, don't do it! Don't even think you could find them in a 911 size, but they would be a huge downgrade in performance. Nice car with PCCBs and CL's.
 
Old Jan 6, 2014 | 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by 550bryan
I probably won't remove the rims much either but I wanted the tools for two reasons, first, in case I come out some morning to a flat tire (a not uncommon occurrence if you pick up a nail or something on yesterday's drive), it means either flatbedding the car, trying to air up the tire and get somewhere quickly on a leaking tire, or removing the rim to take it for repair, I prefer the latter. The long breaker bar is for removing the rim (not good on the calibration to use the torque wrench) and the torque wrench for both tightening and to carry in the car in case of an on the road issue. You can't assume everyone will have a proper wrench for removing the rim. It was worth the $400 or so for the flexibility and peace of mind.
Two other comments, I totally agree on the PCCB's, it would be hard to check the box on a new car order given the price, but when you buying a used car it's a no brainer IMHO, as you say great feel, no dust, lower unsprung weight, surprisingly no squeak thus far and they look so cool. Second, I'm not a fan of run flats, given their price, their tread life and their ride quality.
I have a couple of cars so walking out and seeing a flat sucks but AAA will take care of it if I am at home. What is nice is the TPMS which alert you pretty quickly when you have a nail. I have run flats on two of my cars and had them on my Z06 and did not notice any difference in performance, but yes they do not last as long as normal tires. Since Porsche went to the flat in the can I will never replace tires without run flats.
 
Old Jan 6, 2014 | 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by 550bryan
Based on my recent search for a car this lightly equipped example is worth about 120K. I'm sure they are asking 130+, but who pays asking price? These are quickly depreciating assets so the dealer is motivated to move the iron, it will be worth less next month.
BTW, I'm not sure I get the aversion to PCCB's and CL's. If the car it tracked I get it, but for a street car I like both options, particularly the PCCB's (they are unbelievably great brakes with pads every 35,000 mi and the rotors apparently last forever). In the case of the CL's I did have to invest about $400 on both a collapsable torque wrench (fits in the front trunk) and a long breaker bar. It's not that tough to remove a wheel and they look so cool.

The CL looks so clean and you do not see many cars out there with them.
 
Old Jan 6, 2014 | 05:20 PM
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Interesting, Ferrari of Long Island had a very clean moderately optioned '11 TT 6sp blk/blk with slightly over 4K miles with a final listing of $114.9 (down from $125K) before it got snapped up (the listing disappeared).

$120K sounds about right for Yr/Mileage you are considering. I wouldn't pay $130K (that's approaching .2 TTS territory w/ incl PDK, PCCB, PTV and likely RS spyder CL as standard!!)
 
Old Jan 6, 2014 | 07:24 PM
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Boy, I was off on that puppy. Only $129k. Depends if you really want the manual. They made many more Ss in 2012 than regular turbos; you can get an S for the same price with a couple more miles. I would definitely get an S instead. I had only been looking at 10s and 11s. Good luck with the search!
 


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