H&R vs Eibach lowering springs pics
That's what I thought, cool, thanks!
Where did you get the mesh looks nice, more sporty....
Do you still have the coupon?
I've had Eibach and H&R springs on different cars, and seen many, many in person, including Porsches, and I've never noticed any real difference in height between the two brands. I've never noticed any real difference in performance either in any of the cars I've been able to drive or ride along in. As far as I'm concerned, their standard springs are for all intents and purposes comparable products in every way.
Yeah you basically learn to drive at a 45 angle whenever entering or leaving a roadway into a parking lot and it just becomes second nature after a while.
I have the MA Shaw GT-2 style front bumper with their carbon fiber front lip and it requires going at a 45 any time the entrance is more than a few inches different than the road. Even so, my lip is pretty well dinged up since sometimes there just isn't any angle to avoid scraping, or you run into a drainage ditch that runs across a road (very common on city streets here around Denver, but rare in every other one of the 39 states I've been to) and the bounce of hitting the ditches at anything more than 5 mph makes the lip scrape (and they're hard to see until you're <50 feet away). Thankfully at the time I bought my bumper, they were having a sale and only charged me $225 for the lip. Better yet, figuring I'd have to replace the lip at some point, I asked them how much for a second one and they only charged me $150 for it! And no extra shipping since I was already getting the bumper and a lip, so it fit in the same box.
It's also important to pay attention to the break-over angle when lowering your car, though most people never think of this. As an off-road junkie, it's a significant parameter I pay attention to, but car people don't. You also need to pay attention to the height of speed bumps and entrances/exits since you can hit the center bottom of your lowered car on bumps only a few inches high. You can find a few instances of this if you search the forums, including people who have damaged their oil pans to the point of losing all of their oil.
P.S. On a side note, I have to put in a plug for how strong the MA Shaw products are. For starters, they're made in the US, not China (not sure if every single product is). Secondly, unlike most aftermarket bumper covers, theirs have fiberglass reinforcement panels at all of the stress points, especially around all of the vents. Third, despite several years and 30k miles of use and banging my front lip pretty good quite a number of times, the bumper cover shows absolutely zero sign of any cracks or stress, either in the paint or on the back side. The carbon fiber lip is also solid carbon fiber, unlike many carbon fiber parts today which are just fiberglass or plastic with a carbon fiber print/sticker or single layer on top. The only real damage is I broke the center screw hole/insert in the lip. There are metal inserts molded into the carbon fiber at each of the dozen or so places the lip screws on, which again is over-engineered / unnecessarily strong. Since the center of the lip sticks out the furthest, it takes the most stress and ended up damaged after probably 2 years / 15k miles, but hasn't gotten any worse. I just took a washer larger than the damaged hole and put that on the screw and the lip is once again securely attached.
Once lowered you will need to be very careful as the front lip will scrape on steep drives, etc….more than it did before.
If you have the black plastic version then most simply live with it. Others, like myself, have to be cautious as mine is the OEM aero lip painted to match. Huge price delta and can't be simply "swapped" out for $130.
If you have the black plastic version then most simply live with it. Others, like myself, have to be cautious as mine is the OEM aero lip painted to match. Huge price delta and can't be simply "swapped" out for $130.
I have the MA Shaw GT-2 style front bumper with their carbon fiber front lip and it requires going at a 45 any time the entrance is more than a few inches different than the road. Even so, my lip is pretty well dinged up since sometimes there just isn't any angle to avoid scraping, or you run into a drainage ditch that runs across a road (very common on city streets here around Denver, but rare in every other one of the 39 states I've been to) and the bounce of hitting the ditches at anything more than 5 mph makes the lip scrape (and they're hard to see until you're <50 feet away). Thankfully at the time I bought my bumper, they were having a sale and only charged me $225 for the lip. Better yet, figuring I'd have to replace the lip at some point, I asked them how much for a second one and they only charged me $150 for it! And no extra shipping since I was already getting the bumper and a lip, so it fit in the same box.
It's also important to pay attention to the break-over angle when lowering your car, though most people never think of this. As an off-road junkie, it's a significant parameter I pay attention to, but car people don't. You also need to pay attention to the height of speed bumps and entrances/exits since you can hit the center bottom of your lowered car on bumps only a few inches high. You can find a few instances of this if you search the forums, including people who have damaged their oil pans to the point of losing all of their oil.
P.S. On a side note, I have to put in a plug for how strong the MA Shaw products are. For starters, they're made in the US, not China (not sure if every single product is). Secondly, unlike most aftermarket bumper covers, theirs have fiberglass reinforcement panels at all of the stress points, especially around all of the vents. Third, despite several years and 30k miles of use and banging my front lip pretty good quite a number of times, the bumper cover shows absolutely zero sign of any cracks or stress, either in the paint or on the back side. The carbon fiber lip is also solid carbon fiber, unlike many carbon fiber parts today which are just fiberglass or plastic with a carbon fiber print/sticker or single layer on top. The only real damage is I broke the center screw hole/insert in the lip. There are metal inserts molded into the carbon fiber at each of the dozen or so places the lip screws on, which again is over-engineered / unnecessarily strong. Since the center of the lip sticks out the furthest, it takes the most stress and ended up damaged after probably 2 years / 15k miles, but hasn't gotten any worse. I just took a washer larger than the damaged hole and put that on the screw and the lip is once again securely attached.
Last edited by teflon_jones; Feb 16, 2014 at 02:06 AM.
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Here's mine on the H&Rs. Question for those who have lowered. Did you guys get the adjustable control arms to correct the camber and/or toe-in after the drop? I haven't done that yet and everything seems fine. Curious if others noticed a difference afterwards.
I've had Eibach and H&R springs on different cars, and seen many, many in person, including Porsches, and I've never noticed any real difference in height between the two brands. I've never noticed any real difference in performance either in any of the cars I've been able to drive or ride along in. As far as I'm concerned, their standard springs are for all intents and purposes comparable products in every way. Yeah you basically learn to drive at a 45 angle whenever entering or leaving a roadway into a parking lot and it just becomes second nature after a while. I have the MA Shaw GT-2 style front bumper with their carbon fiber front lip and it requires going at a 45 any time the entrance is more than a few inches different than the road. Even so, my lip is pretty well dinged up since sometimes there just isn't any angle to avoid scraping, or you run into a drainage ditch that runs across a road (very common on city streets here around Denver, but rare in every other one of the 39 states I've been to) and the bounce of hitting the ditches at anything more than 5 mph makes the lip scrape (and they're hard to see until you're <50 feet away). Thankfully at the time I bought my bumper, they were having a sale and only charged me $225 for the lip. Better yet, figuring I'd have to replace the lip at some point, I asked them how much for a second one and they only charged me $150 for it! And no extra shipping since I was already getting the bumper and a lip, so it fit in the same box. It's also important to pay attention to the break-over angle when lowering your car, though most people never think of this. As an off-road junkie, it's a significant parameter I pay attention to, but car people don't. You also need to pay attention to the height of speed bumps and entrances/exits since you can hit the center bottom of your lowered car on bumps only a few inches high. You can find a few instances of this if you search the forums, including people who have damaged their oil pans to the point of losing all of their oil. P.S. On a side note, I have to put in a plug for how strong the MA Shaw products are. For starters, they're made in the US, not China (not sure if every single product is). Secondly, unlike most aftermarket bumper covers, theirs have fiberglass reinforcement panels at all of the stress points, especially around all of the vents. Third, despite several years and 30k miles of use and banging my front lip pretty good quite a number of times, the bumper cover shows absolutely zero sign of any cracks or stress, either in the paint or on the back side. The carbon fiber lip is also solid carbon fiber, unlike many carbon fiber parts today which are just fiberglass or plastic with a carbon fiber print/sticker or single layer on top. The only real damage is I broke the center screw hole/insert in the lip. There are metal inserts molded into the carbon fiber at each of the dozen or so places the lip screws on, which again is over-engineered / unnecessarily strong. Since the center of the lip sticks out the furthest, it takes the most stress and ended up damaged after probably 2 years / 15k miles, but hasn't gotten any worse. I just took a washer larger than the damaged hole and put that on the screw and the lip is once again securely attached.