If the hose is rigid enough you could snug the hose clamp on it as a guide so you cant slip and cut too much. I use that technique when I cut hoses at work. A hacksaw blade with the end wrapped with tape may come in handy also. You may want to tape off the turbo inlet so no debris can get in there.
I like the black y pipe. Did you spray it with basalt black or just plain black? What sort of prep did you have to do to get the paint to stick? Thanks

 

Yes...Thanks. Was going to mark a spot about the width of the steel band on the metal sleeve inside the pipe..Then slide the hose onto the pipe to the mark and tighten the steel band/clamp down and that should hold it very still while I cut it! And yeas, I may stick one of my fancy blue paper towel plugs in there first

On the Y/Boost Pipe...I took it off and sanded the surface so it was smooth, and then hit is with PAP (Plastic adhesion promoter) spray, then primer, sanded again, then sprayed Basalt Black Metallic, then a few coats of Clear, and set it front of a heater in my garage attic for a while....And it has held up very well. Also put body stripes on the air-box, and when you have the lid open you see the effect...The red lines up with the tails and the black with the rest and has a nice look...

You can get the paint and clear etc. in aerosol cans ( I have a gun...but a pain to clean for small jobs) from Automotive Touch Up Paint online (Out of New Orleans) and it matches pretty well. About $19 for a can of color which is all you need and about $7-10 for the clear and PAP etc..


DC

 

Great, Thanks for the great info. I will have to give it a try over the winter.
Good luck with the cutting mod. I hope it cures your fitment issue. Car looks great by the way.
Thanks again

 

You are welcome and thanks.

Update...I went out and cut off about 1/4" as suggested and squeezed them back on there and it helped a bunch. I do not have a ton of clearance but about 1/8-1/4" on each side, which if fine (it is not rubbing!)....It is apparent that these hoses are "Fatter" than some others....Because the front is pressed against to the actuator and the back has just a slight gap...HUGE HOSE I would say nothing bigger would fit (That's what SHE said! ).

Thanks for your suggestion!
DC

 

Glad to hear it worked. You have semi solid motor mounts from what I read so you should be fine. Now you just need to take it out and test. Please let us know how it feels.
On another note just out of curiosity where did you buy the ic's. I'm looking to get a set myself. You can message me if you don't want to say publicly.
Thanks

 

Sent you a PM with the info on IC's. I think the 1/4" gap will be fine. And yes I have Semi Solid RSS engine mounts and Torque Solutions Semi Solid 75A Transmission mounts, so it does not shake around at all

I will have to wait until Tuesday or Wednesday after the IC's arrive to put it back together (And I have an Exam Tuesday at 1 PM for 2 hours...Yeay)...So will do it after that. Then will have to see what the weather does

I will post impressions after I get it back together for sure...Nothing scientific...Just Butt Dyno and sound stuff...

DC

 

Here is an updated photo. Trimmed off 1/4" at the turbo end and pushed it on very hard while tightening. It went from being pressed against the bracket, to having about 1/4" gap, so should be all good now. Did the same on the other side as well.

DC

 

Looks perfect. Nice work. Did you use a razor or something else.

 

I would love to see your DIY on the pipes ROCK, I saw a couple other ones, as this one, but I do not want to lower the tranny as I do not have a lift. Did you just lower the engine slightly like your spark plug DIY?

 

Hi there....

I actually used a very sharp Knife as I needed a longer blade. I took the hose off of the fitting that mounts to the turbo and then measured from the edge to about 1/4" and used the band clamp as a guide to draw a line with a Sharpie...Then I put the band clamp on the end of the hose and slid it back on up to the line I drew so I would know where the edge fitting was...Clamped it snug and poked a hole as indicated and then slid the knife through it from top to bottom. Not a perfect cut, but clean enough! Hope that helps. Pic below.

Note in the picture it is already cut and installed...just showing how I cut with the blade...If you cut that much off you will be in trouble!

DC

 

I love my turbo inlet pipes...thought I would include this pic in here. This is a log from my car today. 21 psi @ 6900 rpm on the factory turbos with these inlet pipes. The car is so, SO much faster than it ever was with either the GIAC flash, or the canned OTS Cobb software. The power of custom tuning guys

 

Hi there.

Yes I think the OP was already doing some tranny work and had it dropped. That would be a buttload of work if not already doing it. Lowering the motor as indicated in my Spark Plug DIY will work. It is still tight, but just be patient. Took me bout 15-20 minutes to actually get them pulled in to place. I will try to put a DIY together if it will help others. I will say that I fed the passenger side in from the bottom to the engine bay and pulled it up from where I inserted in through wheel well. On the drivers side it took a little longer...Fed it from top and took the metal vent connector out and then replaced after it was in place...It was a little difficult, but used extensions and patience...Probably could do it without removing it, but was worried about snagging and cracking a fuel line..

I have a Finance Exam I am preparing for Tuesday...so other than breaks like this...I am studying!

I will put something together afterwards though...My IC's should be here soon so I will do both DIY's likely in the next week as I can squeeze out some time.

Take care!
DC

 

Rock,

I'm experiencing rubbing on the suspension components as shown in your pics. Have you noticed if anything is wearing from rubbing?

I'm also experiencing contact in the following areas:

• The vtg actuator connector touching the silicon pipe on the passenger side
• The fuel filter
• On passenger side on the body inside the engine bay...passenger side is VERY tight.

Anyone think that the contact of the silicon pipe to the body will wear away the factory cathodic anti corrosion coating and/or start wearing or polishing away the body?

Thanks in advance!