997.1 injector install
 

I have searched around and really haven't found any information on this. There is a little for the 996, but nothing I have seen specific to 997. I don't have the facilities to drop the engine, although that looks like the simplest way to go about it.

Any one have any pro tips? My car is overrunning my current injector setup (Protomotive 80lbs / 5 bar FPR) on E85 and I am planning on installing some Injector Dynamics ID1300s.

All info appreciated...

Try these two links although I know they are both 996 specific, from everything I have read there is no difference:

https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...tall-tips.html

https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...placement.html

Thanks, that's what I was curious about more than anything. If there was anything different about the 997. Guess I will get cracking on this.

997 is easier than 996.all the job should be done in 3 to 4 hours.

Well that's encouraging, thanks for the information. If you don't mind sharing what about the 997 is easier?

I started working on it tonight.

I don't know on what planet this is easy, but it hasn't been incredibly terrible thus far. I just about have the drivers side fuel rail out after about 1.5 hours of effort. Most of that though was clearing out the garage, getting the car up on jack stands so it was at an easier working height, etc.

These ID1300s are extremely cool. The internals are fully stainless steel, and were designed from the ground up for alternative fuels and ethanol. Unlike some of the other 997 injector kits which require rail spacers these have the spacers built into (grey "hats") the injector body for ease of installation. They also come with really nice plug 'n play adapters so no modifications to the wiring harness are necessary.

Here are some pictures of the injectors that I took tonight;


https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.6sp...b7489361c8.jpg


https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.6sp...7af19b35f3.jpg


Inlet from the rail.


https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.6sp...9b2c062f3d.jpg


https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.6sp...79b07c1f0d.jpg

Glad you are getting it sorted! They are great injectors!

-Mitch

Looking good Dan. Nice write up.

i strongly suggest you avoid adapters. they caused all manor of issues on my friends car and mine as well. hard wire them in and avoid any potential issues. i run the 1300 id inj. as well and my shop hard wired new plug ends to avoid any problems. i also used undercover performance billet fuel rails with an8 fittings to allow enough fuel to flow. will the oem fuel system run enough fuel for 1300 inj? i ran all an8 fuel lines a walbro 465 in tank pump and a magna fuel 625 external pump with proefi controlling them. walbro for up to 5 psi and 625 for everything above that

as a side note the 1300 injector dynamics injectors are the only special order injector they make. it is a high quality product and every set is flow matched and charted

At a glance I don't see any problem with the adapters? They are solid one-piece and plug right in. The only way I can re-wire the harness would be to drop the engine.

I'm still kind of trying to figure out what I'm going to do with the fuel lines, filter, etc in the long run. I'm hoping that at my current power level the larger injectors will solve my immediate problems.

Well, struggling a bit getting the wiring harness on the driver side out of the way in order to get the rail out. They seem to be pretty tightly intertwined, and even if I were to unplug everything from the harness the remaining wiring is too tight, it doesn't really buy any wiggle room.

Any ideas?

i ended up removing the inj. clips and let them stay in while i pulled up on the rail. removed the inj. then it gave me room to slide the rail out. of course the drivers side is cake compared to the pass side!

I think (hope) the drivers side is the worst one on the 997. The secondary air pump, inlet pipe, fuel filter, and coolant reservoir are all on the driver side on the 997. I haven't started on the passenger side yet and I'm probably 6-7 hours into the job. :D

I'm not having a lot of luck, I can't reach the far injector towards the front of the car, and I can't get the wiring harness to release enough to let the rail come out with the injectors attached.

sec air is on the pass side on the 996. it was a major pain to get out. i had to really pull on the harness, it clips onto the rail. may try prying the clips up as far as you can

The problem is that there are connections from the harness going down to the top of the head. I think those are coils? Not sure how to get all of that disconnected. My hands don't fit down there.

I now have the three injectors out of the rail, just trying to figure out the best way to get the new ones in there and re-attached to the rail. Such fun this is...

long way around is to remove the bumper and i/c bend up the heat shields and remove the wire harness from the coils. only adds a couple of hrs :)

Dan, I do not envy you one bit. I don't even know where the injectors are on the car, lol, but at least you are trying the diy approach. Just wondering how the pros do it in 3-4hours, hopefully someone can chime in with some advice.

First time I did injectors on 996tt it took me and a friend about 3 hours per side. Second time I did them on a friends car in 2 hrs both sides.

I was gonna do the injectors in my 997 last sunday, I looked at inlet pipes and postponed the project. It def looks harder than 996tt. 996tt is actually quiet simple once the turbo inlet plenum is removed on the left side and air pump on the right side. On 997tt as Rix has posted the inlet pipes run right over the fuel rails, gladly my car silicone ones ( I believe his does too) with stock hard inlets the injector job would be even a bigger nightmare.

I wish I would have done injectors when I cut the stock inlet piping out of the car and before the new inlets were installed.

I was poking around under the "hood" of mine today, and I wouldn't even attempt the injector install with the stock turbo inlet pipes in the car. I would end up burning the car to the ground in effigy, haha. Going to install mine when the motor is out for the new clutch.

no need to remove the motor to do a clutch

I have the driver's side done now. It was a major pain in the ass due to the inlet pipes, and how tight the harness wiring is over the fuel rail. Sadly I'm out of town for a few days, and then I'm going to Texas Invitational this weekend (not racing, just watching) but hopefully I'll get the passenger side done next week.

I am itching to get my tuning finished with Mitch and go for some 60-130 numbers :).

I have been writing up my notes from the experience... I will post them when I am done with everything. I've discovered some nifty things, it's not entirely horrible to work on. I think though it would have been more worthwhile to learn how to drop the engine entirely. Porsche deserves some Doosh Canoe™ awards, they could have made it a LOT easier to do but decided instead to be very German.

It looks like a huge PITA. Can't wait till its done though!

Mitch

I'm removing the motor to do the clutch, turbo inlet pipes, injectors, pin the coolant pipes, and do general service work ;)

I've got a lift going in the garage at my new house, but that won't be ready until ~March... Then I can pull the engine on the weekends just to clean it hilarious.

How much clearance do you think you need to remove the engine from the bottom? e.g. how high does the car have to be raised to have enough space to remove from the bottom?

-Jose

From what I have read, 36" is about the bare minimum you want to try. I think it depends on how the lift/jack you are using to lower the engine with sits though.

well that completely rules out the ezcarlift idea :mad:

-Jose

That's the right way of doing it. Anyone attempting this from the top is really asking for a lot of headache and a lot of time wasted.

Haha, so everyone becomes an expert and posts in my thread AFTER I start the injector swap

:)

Are you done yet :)

-Mitch

Lol longest injector swap in history!

Was in Houston all week, and now it's Texas Invitational... Might get a chance to finish it up Monday.

We just did my injectors and it sucked. driver side removed air pump and inlet pipe. passenger side took off both milspec connectors unplugged everything off the head and swung the harness out of the way. i was so glad that the 1400cc injectors Undercover got me were direct drop it and we didnt have to mess with plug n play connectors or adapter/spacers....

here is a pic of oem injector and the 1400cc injector i got from Undercover.

Attachment 509751

Attachment 509752

Those look nice, identical to the stock injector. What injectors are those? I haven't seen them for sale anywhere. I'm pretty sold on Injector Dynamics. The 1300s are made with e85 in mind and the flow matching on them is fantastic.

This weekend is go time for me...Flying back from Houston and getting my car running! Either that or I'm burning it :)

OP: did you do anything in regards to the fuel pump as far as an upgrade?

My injectors are Bosch Motorsport 1400s

lots of marketing techniques flying around recently about the new stainless steel injectors. stainless injectors are not new at all.

little bit of background on that....

lots of guys have been using the big 2000cc injectors to run ethanol. those are umodified Bosch natural gas injectors not made to run fuel or ethanol, therefore they have problems with sticking and corrosion when they get older especially with ethanol use. I have personally not ran into that with the 2000s but thats the deal. fuel injectors actually made for fuel such as Bosch motorsports have stainless insides and are all "good" for ethanol. ID doesnt make those injectors, Bosch does. The ID1300s are not "made with E85 in mind", they are made with stainelss steel inernals for fuel which is presumed to have ethanol content just like all other injectors made for fuel. With that said ID1300s are a good choice !

I'm not ultra familiar with the differences, but the IDs are supposed to be a newer design than the standard Bosch Motorsport injectors.

Not yet. I am planning on putting a fuel pressure sensor on it so I can datalog and see what things look like.

Welcome back to another installment of Worlds Longest Injector Install™. I was going to be back out of town on business this week on business but came down with a mild case of Ebola yesterday evening/this morning which kept me home. Kidding about the Ebola part, but wow I haven't felt worse in years.

At any rate, after the dust cleared tonight I managed to get 30 minutes to work on the car. Here's some interesting comparison photos that I took. I'm swapping back to the factory 380kpa fuel pressure regulator. I think ultimately I'll have better flow capacity at the lower base pressure vs the 5 bar which works the fuel pumps harder. With the ID1300 (rated at 43.5psi) these will flow ~1520cc (rated at 55.1psi by Injector Dynamics) so I should have plenty of headroom at my power level.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.6sp...1fe05c7536.jpg

Trio of fuel injectors & 3.8 vs. 5.0 bar FPR


https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.6sp...cef860ee85.jpg

Injector Dynamics ID1300, Protomotive/Siemens Deka 840cc, and factory 997 Turbo injectors. I think they are ~630cc?


https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.6sp...51e88fb82d.jpg

Factory 3.8 (380kpa) FPR vs. Protomotive 5 bar. I'm not sure if it's the Bosch Motorsport part of it's a modified part, haven't taken the label off to see what is printed underneath.

few observations....

- thats def a crushed/modified 5bar not the Motorsport one

- part of the ID injector that goes into the intake manifold is much shorter than stock (from O-ring to spray tip), that will cause some fuel to come down and drip from the sides of the port.