I have been meaning to post some quick pointers for the install of our drop-in injector kit for a while now, as more and more people are looking to tackle this install themselves. I finally had a set of injectors and fuel rails around to take a few pics. I am unable to get too many more pics of the install process, just because its hard to take pictures of anything in the engine bay and be able to make sense of it.


A quick bit of info, depending on the car, you may not need to unplug the harness from the coils, as some of the harnesses are slightly longer and allow enough room to sneak the rails our from under the harness that runs over them. I find it is just easier to unplug the harnesses 99% of the time, as I will usually be swapping turbos/spark plugs/etc. at the same time anyway. With that said, I will be explaining the process with the bumper and intercoolers removed.

Getting at the injectors
You can lower the motor from the rear mounts to gain some extra room, just do not remove the nuts entirely from the mounts. Remove the intercooler hoses from the y-pipe, and remove the Y-pipe itself. The hose clamp on the coupler to the throttle body can be removed with a 7mm socket and a 1/4" ratchet. There are two 10mm bolts holding the y-pipe to the motor, and a 3rd holding the AC line to the y-pipe itself. Disconnect the breather hose next to the MAP sensor on the pipe, and unplug the MAP sensor. Remove the clamp from the F-hose that keeps it on the Y-pipe and remove the Y-pipe, disconnecting the reference line to the boost control valve right after you separate the Y-pipe from the coupler.

Drivers side
You may want to remove the diverter valves entirely the first time you do the job, so you can see everything a little more clearly. Separate the Y shaped hose under the diverter valves from the inlet plenum, and remove the inlet plenum. The fuel filter will have to be removed before you can pull the plenum from the engine bay. There is one 10mm bolt at the top of the plenum holding it to the intake manifold, and 3 towards the rear. A small 10mm socket and long 1/4" extension will work best for this; there are 2 at the top of the plenum and one at the bottom. These bolts do not have come all the way out! When they are fully unscrewed from the rear half of the plenum, they will still stay in the front portion you are removing so you won't drop them! Disconnect the connectors behind the intercoolers for the coils and the cam solenoid, and pick up on the harness that runs over the fuel rail. Disconnect the lines and remove the two 10mm bolts that hold the rail to the head. Sneak the rail out with the injectors!

Passenger side
This side is easier to remove parts from, but you have to work around the AC lines. Remove the oil fill neck from the secondary air pump bracket by removing the 5mm allen bolt and bracket, and twisting the neck slightly to unsnap it from the bracket. Remove the two 10mm bolts that hold the bracket to the intake manifold, and then remove the three 10mm bolts that hold the pump to the bracket. Remove the bracket. Unscrew the hose clamp on the hose on the side of the air pump, and remove the air pump. Unplug the coils and cam solenoid, lift the harness, unbolt the lines, and remove the rail and injectors.

New injector time!
Remove the clips holding the old injectors to the rails, and remove the injectors. The mounting holes on the rails should be slotted to allow slightly more room for the wiring adapters, as well as insuring a proper seat in the intake manifold. This slotting can be done with a simple round file from home depot/lowes/harbor freight/etc like the one pictured below, and is easier to do by hand than with a die grinder.




Once the holes are slotted, clean up the rails and install the new injectors. Make sure to reinstall the clips that you removed from the stock injectors! There is a slot on the injector that the clip must slide straight onto, and the clips must lock into the lips on the rail as shown below.




Once the injectors are installed, double check the clips so that nothing looks like the picture below. This is a clip installed wrong, which can happen if you slightly twist the injector in one direction or if it is not seated fully into the rail.



Using Sil-Glyde (can be found at NAPA) or similar can help lubricate the o-rings so they slide into the manifold easier. Only lube the o-rings that go into the manifold. If you lube the o-rings that slide into the fuel rails, you will find the injectors will pop out of the rails when you are trying to sneak the rails back in.



Slide the rails back into their appropriate sides, making sure the injectors are lined back up with the manifold. Leaving the rail to head bolts loose, start threading the lines back on the rails. Once the lines are started, push the rail firmly and evenly into the manifold and tighten the mounting bolts. You should find that the bolts are now tight in the part of the mounting hole you slotted! Plug the wiring adapters into the stock harness first, and then into the new injectors. Keep an eye on the clips that hold the injectors to the rail. If you play with the injector too much while plugging the adapter in, you may knock the clip out of place. If you do, just spin the injector back straight and firmly push the clip back where it needs to be. Tighten the lines, plug everything back in and put everything together!

Thats it!

 

Sweet!

 

No, it will not cause issues. It is highly recommended to enlarge the holes, however the injectors we sell/use will fit without doing this.

Its a 10 minute step to allow for a slightly more tight fit.

 

Good write up Dave!

But as in the last thread! No pry-bar, ball pin hammer, or Lil Powell... No care!

Hopefully this helps a lot of the people out!

 

Going to give it a go this weekend. Hope it all works out.

 

Thanks for sharing Dave!

 

I just installed my injector i got from EPL and i would like to add some info that might help people.

1. Replace the bottom o-rings of the new injectors with the top o-ring of the old injectors. This gives a tight fit.

2. The center injector of each bank will give you trouble when trying to connect the harness to the adapter. The adapter used with these injectors will make the connector hit the turbo support bracket. Bend the little tab on the fuel rail up for the center injector. This will allow the injector and locking clip to rotate about 45deg so the injector clip will fit in the open space of the bracket. I did this and it works like a champ.


-Ed

 

HEY,Now how do you mount the fuel pumps to feed them......lol......

 

The stock pump is good for what i'm looking for.

I don't know how tight the tank is but i would replace the pump with two Bosch 044 pumps in parallel and run larger fuel lines and fittings to the rail. you can also install a bosch 044 in line.

This guy has everything you need at good prices:http://www.jayracing.com/index.php?m...=index&cPath=2

 

this was a helpful writeup. i used a dremel with a small bit to slot the hole, a bit quicker then a file. everything fit fine. job is an intimidating DIY before you start, however once you are at it's not bad at all..

 

Bull$h!t! I'm in the middle of this and I did lower the engine. It is still a major PITA. Not looking forward to putting them back in. Well I need to start the installation part of the job now and I can't imagine it will go easier than the removal of the stock ones.

 

pm sent to you

 

What kind of time frame should I allow for the job???

 

Well, it isn't as bad as I thought it was when I first posted to this thread
It took me about 8 hours. I just pulled the driver's side again for troubleshooting and this time it took two hours (for only one bank). It's amazing how much easier it seems once you have the car back together!

I've attached very detailed instructions...I had to split it into two because of the size restriction so I broke it into removal and installation.
EPL's instructions included some very helpful tips but I couldn't have done the job without the attached docs.
Best of luck to you!

 

Excellent! Getting ready to do this myself!