Considering Converting to RWD....Has anyone successfully done this????
I have been having issues with my front inner CV boots boiling over and exploding within 100-150 miles after installation. First was with a re-built CV boot and after failing we then installed completely new OEM axles, once again, failed within 150 highway miles.
We are now thinking something has failed with the front differential, potentially a bearing or race, thus causing excessive heat. We have been keeping an eye on the diff fluid....levels are good, but we are seeing fluid seeping out of the breather/overflow vent at the top of the diff. Unfortunately the front diff is not re-buildable nor can we order bearings or races to trouble shoot. The cost for a new front diff is stupid crazy....$6,500ish! I do not see the value in replacing it. Therefore, we are considering removing it altogether. Has anyone ever perform such surgery on a 997.1? In doing so, is their anything we need to be aware of? Is this really just a simple process of removing the diff and transfer case, etc...as sighted in many 996TT AWD to RWD conversion threads, or is there way more involved with doing so with a 997.1? i.e. electronic sensors dictating the amount of drive to the front wheels, left or right, Traction Control, ABS, etc... The vehicle is primarily used on road courses. ie: its a "Track RAT" with plates. Concerns from the shop that might be performing the surgery: "There is some concern here that the tranny may also have to be changed, once the front driveshaft is removed. If there is no load on the front driveshaft (it would be gone), then we believe the transfer case may be set up to transfer all load to the unload front or rear, which now would be the front, and there would be no power to the rear...." Thanks in advance for any insight on this matter. VID997 |
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How about sensors also? |
Its easy to do on a turbo but according to my guy everyone goes back and puts the AWD back.
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Originally Posted by Squat
(Post 4226046)
Its easy to do on a turbo but according to my guy everyone goes back and puts the AWD back.
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You disconnect the front driveshaft, you need the part from the gt2 to hold the pieces in the front. The handling changes too much is why
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^^^ FYI: My vehicle is a heavily modified track machine and is not very usable as a street car. It has one purpose....that being... going around in kinky circles, (hilarious) which requires one to turn the steering wheel left and right while controlling the throttle....not just left, or holding it straight while keeping the pedal flat.
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Squat, alignment and suspension wise...everything has been replace with CUP car bits and in 2013 it spent an entire season fine tuning the suspension and alignments with everything based on Ohlins TTX 46 & 36's.
We have already began bench marking set-up with a GT-2RS and feel we are at a very good starting point (if we eliminate the front wheel drive system). |
Then buy the piece in the front front a GT2 and take out the driveshaft. I forget what its clled
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Originally Posted by VID997
(Post 4226093)
Squat, alignment and suspension wise...everything has been replace with CUP car bits and in 2013 it spent an entire season fine tuning the suspension and alignments with everything based on Ohlins TTX 46 & 36's. We have already began bench marking set-up with a GT-2RS and feel we are at a very good starting point (if we eliminate the front wheel drive system).
Great thread! Looking for some answers. |
Originally Posted by elite1
(Post 4226071)
Hey squat, do you happen to know why this is the case? Also, do you. Know what is involved with this conversion?
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you can do it easily, and I don't think you need to modify your transmission.
its more fun than AWD specially once the turbo kicks off, but YOU HAVE to consider the LSD I Had a problem with my front differential earlier this year, and unfortunately I replaced it with a new one and the cost was around $7500 including labor All the best |
^^PowderHound,
The car currently has a Guard GT2 PRO 40/60 LSD, AASCO Lightweight Aluminum Fly Wheel, SACHS RACE Clutch, CUP Cables, Numeric Shifter, GMG Semi Solid Tranny Mounts, RSS Semi Solid Engine Mounts, Ohlins TTX Fully Adjustable Coilovers, RSS Adjustable Control Arms (Front), GT3 CUP Adjustable Control Arms (Rear), RSS Adjustable Front Toe/Bump Steer Kit, RSS Adjustable Rear Links, RSS Adjustable Rear Toe Steer Kit, TRG Adjustable Drop Links (Front), Champion Adjustable Sway bars (Front and Rear), Turbo Kraft Monoball Camber Plates (Front & Rear), and I am sure I am forgetting to mention some other bits... We are more concerned about electronics and what to do with the output drive on the transmission which powers the transfer case for the front wheels. Thanks, VID |
Originally Posted by VID997
(Post 4226530)
^^PowderHound,
The car currently has a Guard GT2 PRO 40/60 LSD, AASCO Lightweight Aluminum Fly Wheel, SACHS RACE Clutch, CUP Cables, Numeric Shifter, GMG Semi Solid Tranny Mounts, RSS Semi Solid Engine Mounts, Ohlins TTX Fully Adjustable Coilovers, RSS Adjustable Control Arms (Front), GT3 CUP Adjustable Control Arms (Rear), RSS Adjustable Front Toe/Bump Steer Kit, RSS Adjustable Rear Links, RSS Adjustable Rear Toe Steer Kit, TRG Adjustable Drop Links (Front), Champion Adjustable Sway bars (Front and Rear), Turbo Kraft Monoball Camber Plates (Front & Rear), and I am sure I am forgetting to mention some other bits... We are more concerned about electronics and what to do with the output drive on the transmission which powers the transfer case for the front wheels. Thanks, VID |
you can disconnect the front drive and go RWD, but you wont be able to get into sport mode.
the right way to do RWD is by changing the front up rights to gt3/gt2 spec. the handling will be night and day. as far as transmission issues, you wont have any. if/when my front diff dies i will go rwd as well. |
Originally Posted by VID997
(Post 4226530)
^^PowderHound,
We are more concerned about electronics and what to do with the output drive on the transmission which powers the transfer case for the front wheels. Thanks, VID |
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