997 Turbo / GT2 2006–2012 Turbo discussion on the 997 model Porsche 911 Twin Turbo.
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997.1 TT Build Take 3

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Old Mar 2, 2016 | 09:27 AM
  #121  
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Originally Posted by jordonmusser
congrats. Ive got a clutch and turbo parts, just no cams
what clutch ?
 
Old Mar 2, 2016 | 09:36 AM
  #122  
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Looking good man, good luck with the rest of it. Can't wait to see it rip! We're getting ours ready to go again to post some updates as soon as its dry out again

Dzenno@PTF
 
Old Mar 2, 2016 | 09:56 AM
  #123  
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RPS triple.
 
Old Mar 2, 2016 | 10:07 AM
  #124  
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Originally Posted by jordonmusser
RPS triple.
I hope that clutch works out for you. If it's the same as the ERP clutch, it was brutal for me.
 
Old Mar 2, 2016 | 10:22 AM
  #125  
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Glad to see some of these bigger 997.1 builds start wrapping up. In for updates
 
Old Mar 4, 2016 | 07:13 AM
  #126  
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Almost Complete!


 
Old Mar 4, 2016 | 09:09 AM
  #127  
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Nice, looking forward to the results!
 
Old Mar 4, 2016 | 12:32 PM
  #128  
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So, the cylinders/sleeves.... what kind of machining is required for them ?

I've done engine work before but on v8s and flat fours so my case halves were halves. I'm still such a n00b to this engine i'm not sure how everything fits together just right I mean i'm sure if i saw one out, in person it would all makes since but right ow i'm just looking at picture on the internet and get slightly baffled
 
Old Mar 4, 2016 | 12:48 PM
  #129  
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Originally Posted by somefoo1
So, the cylinders/sleeves.... what kind of machining is required for them ?

I've done engine work before but on v8s and flat fours so my case halves were halves. I'm still such a n00b to this engine i'm not sure how everything fits together just right I mean i'm sure if i saw one out, in person it would all makes since but right ow i'm just looking at picture on the internet and get slightly baffled

If you stay with 10 mm head studs, no machining is required to the sleeves/cylinders. The sleeves press into the cylinders (by hand with a little body weight). The middle cylinder is a real PITA to get installed on re-assembly. Other than that, it's pretty straight forward.
 
Old Mar 4, 2016 | 03:25 PM
  #130  
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Originally Posted by vr6tee
If you stay with 10 mm head studs, no machining is required to the sleeves/cylinders. The sleeves press into the cylinders (by hand with a little body weight). The middle cylinder is a real PITA to get installed on re-assembly. Other than that, it's pretty straight forward.
So it's possible to do 3.8 sleeves pistons and pauter rods with no machine work as long as you stay with the 10mm heavy duty studs? That combo would be good for what? Right around 1000whp? But if I read correctly the hardness of the heavy duty 10mm studs means you have to re torque them after a heat cycle which means pulling the engine back out unless you have an engine dyno setup or something.
 
Old Mar 4, 2016 | 07:01 PM
  #131  
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Originally Posted by somefoo1
So it's possible to do 3.8 sleeves pistons and pauter rods with no machine work as long as you stay with the 10mm heavy duty studs? That combo would be good for what? Right around 1000whp? But if I read correctly the hardness of the heavy duty 10mm studs means you have to re torque them after a heat cycle which means pulling the engine back out unless you have an engine dyno setup or something.
That's right..... Pauter and 3.8L= no machining. (Ps. My Carrillo rods only needed the oil pump filed in hole 3, it was really minor). I'm not sure on the re-torquing on the 10mm studs as I've never researched them, but that would be a huge hassle as you would have to remove the cams, cam towers and re time the engine to re torque the studs. I can't imagine anyone has ever done that.
 
Old Mar 4, 2016 | 07:59 PM
  #132  
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Originally Posted by vr6tee
That's right..... Pauter and 3.8L= no machining. (Ps. My Carrillo rods only needed the oil pump filed in hole 3, it was really minor). I'm not sure on the re-torquing on the 10mm studs as I've never researched them, but that would be a huge hassle as you would have to remove the cams, cam towers and re time the engine to re torque the studs. I can't imagine anyone has ever done that.
theres a good bit of torque loss if the procedure isnt followed. best reason to go 12mm is NOT having to remove the motor for a retorque
 
Old Mar 9, 2016 | 06:22 PM
  #133  
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Another quick update.

I've heard so many mixed reviews on intake manifolds. I'm not aiming to have the highest HP Porsche out there. Much better spool and response but less power up top..... Or less torque through out the rpm range but a more impressive dyno number......

I've decided to stick with my stock intake for now and see how the car feels. It will most likely end up the best daily driver with this manifold and I'm not aiming for the absolute record dyno anyway. With that being said, I don't want to run a ported head with a stock manifold...... So, here's what I did.

Ported vs stock
 
Old Mar 9, 2016 | 07:47 PM
  #134  
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Interested to see your results with the stock ported intake manifold. I had my heads ported to GT3 specs at the intake side so I wanted to upgrade. If you do the GT3 style manifold you can also use the new ISC Tuning lower.





Dual injector/cylinder GT3 style intake manifold lower runners.

Those are actually my parts, I'll post more about it when I get things up and running (hopefully?) soon.
 
Old Mar 9, 2016 | 09:21 PM
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Originally Posted by rix
Interested to see your results with the stock ported intake manifold. I had my heads ported to GT3 specs at the intake side so I wanted to upgrade. If you do the GT3 style manifold you can also use the new ISC Tuning lower.





Dual injector/cylinder GT3 style intake manifold lower runners.

Those are actually my parts, I'll post more about it when I get things up and running (hopefully?) soon.
Looks awesome. How much $ does that lower cost?
 


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