997.1 TT Occasional Stalling under quick deceleration
997.1 TT Occasional Stalling under quick deceleration
I've been experiencing some occasional stalling with my car typically when rapidly decelerating. Happened coming up to a stop sign and recently this evening coming up to a hazard in the road where traffic had stopped (real fun)!
It seems to be happening with the clutch in, and either in or out of gear (sometimes I don't realize until I see all the dash lights on). I hooked up the Durametric tool, and there were no codes stored other than a few low voltage codes (prev owner changed out battery before selling to me).
I have cleared those out, and just reset my throttle as outlined by another thread on this board hoping it may help.
Car fires right back up afterwards without issue.
I should also add my clutch does not need to be depressed in order for the engine to crank. I don't see it jumped under the dash. Is there a way of bypassing it with the Durametric tool? It does show as engaging and disengaging when looking on the durametric tool, but I'd like to put it back to stock as the car can be cranked in gear.
My car does have a tune and a lot of other mods and I have access to the builder, but figured I would ask here in case there is a common fix relative to these issues.
Thanks in advance.
It seems to be happening with the clutch in, and either in or out of gear (sometimes I don't realize until I see all the dash lights on). I hooked up the Durametric tool, and there were no codes stored other than a few low voltage codes (prev owner changed out battery before selling to me).
I have cleared those out, and just reset my throttle as outlined by another thread on this board hoping it may help.
Car fires right back up afterwards without issue.
I should also add my clutch does not need to be depressed in order for the engine to crank. I don't see it jumped under the dash. Is there a way of bypassing it with the Durametric tool? It does show as engaging and disengaging when looking on the durametric tool, but I'd like to put it back to stock as the car can be cranked in gear.
My car does have a tune and a lot of other mods and I have access to the builder, but figured I would ask here in case there is a common fix relative to these issues.
Thanks in advance.
From what I have seen, the following things can cause what you describe:
Huge Boost leak: normally computer can compensate, but not all the time
Injector scaling being off: as A418t81 said with aftermarket injectors
Map Sensor scaling not setup properly: if you upgraded to a 3bar for instance
Preload on Internal wastegate actuator arms: Seen this on an Alpha 30 setup where the Arms were preloaded on one side and not as much on the other. This caused chaos with the predictability of idle.
Upgraded Crank Pulley: sometimes the lack of rotational mass can let the engine spin down too fast, a tune can help if this happens. Most of the time if the injectors are spot on people don't see an issue
I bet that if Todd at Proto tuned your car he would be more than happy to take a look. Either way might be worth a quick call as he is always helpful.
Let us know what you find!
Huge Boost leak: normally computer can compensate, but not all the time
Injector scaling being off: as A418t81 said with aftermarket injectors
Map Sensor scaling not setup properly: if you upgraded to a 3bar for instance
Preload on Internal wastegate actuator arms: Seen this on an Alpha 30 setup where the Arms were preloaded on one side and not as much on the other. This caused chaos with the predictability of idle.
Upgraded Crank Pulley: sometimes the lack of rotational mass can let the engine spin down too fast, a tune can help if this happens. Most of the time if the injectors are spot on people don't see an issue
I bet that if Todd at Proto tuned your car he would be more than happy to take a look. Either way might be worth a quick call as he is always helpful.
Let us know what you find!
^ I have some parts on order and plan on bringing the car over to Bill Rudtner in coming weeks.
Will have him go over all of the plumbing as well. If there is a leak I would suspect it to be very slight as the car pulls like an animal and feels right
but.. stranger things have happened.
Will have him go over all of the plumbing as well. If there is a leak I would suspect it to be very slight as the car pulls like an animal and feels right
but.. stranger things have happened.
Trending Topics
You described what mine used to do to a Tee. Basically stopping at a stop sign, put the clutch in, look down and the car is dead with all the lights on the dash. Sometimes it would almost die, but the car would catch itself and it would rev up a touch like a throttle blip.
You described what mine used to do to a Tee. Basically stopping at a stop sign, put the clutch in, look down and the car is dead with all the lights on the dash. Sometimes it would almost die, but the car would catch itself and it would rev up a touch like a throttle blip.
Update on this issue:
Went through all of the plumbing on the car and there are no leaks on top or bottom.
Unplugged MAF sensors which were re-plugged in during my ppi. I have a MAFless tune with meth from Promotive
Todd thought they may have been confusing the tune. still no luck.
Going to send him some data logs this weekend. We are pretty sure its injector timing as the car will never stall if in sport mode.
Stay tuned, and thanks for all of the feedback
Went through all of the plumbing on the car and there are no leaks on top or bottom.
Unplugged MAF sensors which were re-plugged in during my ppi. I have a MAFless tune with meth from Promotive
Todd thought they may have been confusing the tune. still no luck.
Going to send him some data logs this weekend. We are pretty sure its injector timing as the car will never stall if in sport mode.
Stay tuned, and thanks for all of the feedback
Is it possible the car was bought with Lwfw as above poster had mentioned rotational drop in speed to fas can stall the car...I remember when I first did my flywheel the car would stall all the time ..until ecu adapted or I found a different driving style....just trying to give you a different view...
You described what mine used to do to a Tee. Basically stopping at a stop sign, put the clutch in, look down and the car is dead with all the lights on the dash. Sometimes it would almost die, but the car would catch itself and it would rev up a touch like a throttle blip.
Is it possible the car was bought with Lwfw as above poster had mentioned rotational drop in speed to fas can stall the car...I remember when I first did my flywheel the car would stall all the time ..until ecu adapted or I found a different driving style....just trying to give you a different view...
I'm going to pull the engine and gearbox this winter for coolant lines, routine maint, and I need to refresh the second gear synchro and the gear chatter I am hearing.
Was planning on doing some data logs over the weekend but was tied up with family. Going to do some this eve or tomorrow am.




