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997 Turbo / GT2 20062012 Turbo discussion on the 997 model Porsche 911 Twin Turbo.

Coolant Pipe Leak Month

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  #46  
Old 03-13-2018, 09:18 PM
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For you DIY guys I've done this repair myself in my garage. The motor & trans come out pretty easily using a $250 harbor freight lift cart.

 
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  #47  
Old 03-17-2018, 06:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Matt Danger View Post
For you DIY guys I've done this repair myself in my garage. The motor & trans come out pretty easily using a $250 harbor freight lift cart.

Matt, for posterity sake, any tips on DIY dropping the engine? How high did you have to lift the back end to use the HF lift cart? Any other gotchas?
 
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  #48  
Old 03-19-2018, 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Brainz View Post
Matt, for posterity sake, any tips on DIY dropping the engine? How high did you have to lift the back end to use the HF lift cart? Any other gotchas?
Heres a copypasta of something I wrote previously

Like most engine pulls it's a series of small steps. The repair manual PDF (available around here somewhere) was helpful but I mostly just looked around at everything I knew had to be disconnected and went from there. I was pleasantly surprised at how easily everything came apart. Many of the harnesses and connectors are quick-disconnect. I will say that I have a really good collection of tools that I've purchased over the years that helps a lot.

The AC compressor stays connected to the lines so you don't have to break the system. The fuel filter / EVAP disconnects had me stumped for a bit but I eventually got it. I left the axles in but pulled the starter because I wasn't sure I'd be able to get the axle around it.

I had to bleed the clutch when I reinstalled everything. Next time I'd probably try and clamp all the hydraulic & coolant lines so I could loose less fluid. I put rubber plugs/caps over the lines, which helped. I'm pretty sure dealer techs have some kind of line clamps when they do these jobs. Anybody know?

There is mechanics ink / paint you can get to mark male/female connectors and hoses by color so there's no guess work during reassembly.

Don't forget about 1) the big ground cable on the driver side of the motor that connects to the side of the chassis above the turbo outlet and 2) the speed sensor on the front of the transmission. I hadn't noticed both of those until I lowered the motor.

Physically removing the motor is straight forward. I removed the rear crash bar and slid the lift table under the motor/trans. The cart is only long enough to reach under the motor but it's balanced well enough that you don't actually have to brace the trans. But put a floor jack under the trans, just in case. I initially braced the motor with 2x4s but found that both the engine/trans balanced well themselves using only the lift table.

4 bolts / mounts and it drops straight down then roll the cart out from under the rear of the car. Lower it slow while looking around to see if you forgot to disconnect anything (you will) You want to have a couple good, tall jack stands & floor jacks so you can get the car high enough in the rear.

You could lower the engine using a couple floor jacks but I bet it would be miserable. For $300 the lift table is the way to go and I've found lots of other uses for it around the garage.

Once the engine is out and on the cart you have total access to remove the top end components so you can actually get at whatever is leaking. In my case the leak was from the center coolant pipe that supplies the driver side turbo & a hard line to the heater core. The same piece that's illustrated on the sharkwerks site. I pulled the emissions spider hose, driver side intake manifold and the harness on that side until I could finally get down in there.


I believe anyone who is mechanically inclined and has a good set of tools can do this. But I came from a B5 S4, which had a reputation for being difficult to work on. So I guess it's all relative. This car is a total breeze to work on compared to the S4 lol.
 
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  #49  
Old 03-19-2018, 08:20 PM
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Originally Posted by FirstStateCamber View Post
Did the warranty cover the cost of parts (SharkWerks) as well or just the labor portion? I was going to order these to have them if/when it occurs but why spend the dough right?
No, warranty didn't cover the upgraded parts, just the replacement parts and labor. Still $4800 of the total bill.....they also won't cover hoses that are associated but not yet leaking.....
Sharkwerks pipes were drilled and pinned in, no epoxy.
 
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  #50  
Old 03-19-2018, 08:29 PM
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^^^ Thanks for reposting above, Matt.
 
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  #51  
Old 07-28-2018, 09:06 AM
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In this discussion area I have not been able to find any solutions or pictures that everyone is discussing, is there a better way to fix this aluminum tube?

Can you share pictures or methods?
Thank you!
 
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  #52  
Old 07-28-2018, 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by gybmw View Post
In this discussion area I have not been able to find any solutions or pictures that everyone is discussing, is there a better way to fix this aluminum tube?

Can you share pictures or methods?
Thank you!
I used two part epoxy. High temp JB weld and it's been holding strong for the past 2 years + few thousand miles.

There may be other, better industrial epoxies for this application but JB Weld has worked for me. I think the packaging said it was rated for 500deg
 
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  #53  
Old 07-28-2018, 09:35 AM
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Can you share the picture?
Thank you!
 

Last edited by gybmw; 07-28-2018 at 09:37 AM.
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  #54  
Old 07-28-2018, 07:14 PM
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Last edited by BMiller33; 07-28-2018 at 07:15 PM. Reason: Typo
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  #55  
Old 07-28-2018, 07:39 PM
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Originally Posted by BMiller33 View Post
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Try Imgur.
 
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  #56  
Old 07-29-2018, 10:08 AM
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Quick question which I've seen asked on this thread a couple times with no answer... is this an issue with dfi engines (ie 997.2 tts) or just the 997.1

Thanks
 
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  #57  
Old 07-29-2018, 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Vital Signs View Post
Quick question which I've seen asked on this thread a couple times with no answer... is this an issue with dfi engines (ie 997.2 tts) or just the 997.1

Thanks
Just the .1 Turbos, but also other Mezger cars - 996 Turbo and 996/997 GT3/2s, for example.
 
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  #58  
Old 07-30-2018, 08:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Skwerl View Post
Reading 6speed and Rennlist is fun except for now every time I start my car I know that my coolant pipes are about to blow, my camshaft is going to spin out, my rear wing's hydraulics are going to pop, and I'll snap a rod and grenade my engine. Probably all on the same drive to Target.

easy remedy....have the rainy day account ready.
 
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