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Old Jan 30, 2020 | 01:29 PM
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Fuel Pump

Hello 6speed.
I'm sure this has been discussed at some point, and i have read a couple threads. Trying to get the build dialed in on a 997.1 Turbo. I am concerned about running out of fuel, and was wondering if anyone could give me some insight on changing fuel pumps etc. to get me where i want to be. SRM has nice stuff, but i am thinking it may be overkill. Goal is 800WHP(or just a tad over).

I have seen some new AEM pumps. that fit in the same spot as a Bosche 044, but flows 400lph. I was considering just opening up the fuel pump basket, and attempting to drop these in their place?

Any help, would be greatly appreciated.
 
Old Feb 1, 2020 | 09:25 AM
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Unless you use Ethanol fuel 800whp could be had with the stock pumps and 1000 cc injectors .... But you never know with 10+ years old pumps .... I say do the injectors first and the trims/lambdas will tell you if the pumps are lacking ...



I recently finished a DIY fuel pump upgrade, used walbros as they fit nicely in the stock basket and they have internal check valves. It’s not very difficult but you need to know what you are doing and make some custom parts.



These are the hurdles I came accross:
  • Stock basket is glued shut difficult to open then glue back.
  • You need to feed 2 jet pumps and the rail without losing all the flow to the jets i.e use a restrictor.
  • Internal wiring color coding is weird to say the least. Pump 1 Black and yellow wires BLACK IS POWER. Pump 2 Red+Blue Red is power.
  • Sizes to know: jet pump hose feeds one is 3/8 other is 5/16 efi female, and fitting on the hat feeding rail is 3/8 efi male.
  • Working inside the tank through a tiny hole was very challenging, strongly advise a head mounted light and 2 buckets of patience with this one.


I kept it simple, made a 4 way block at a local machine shop: 1/2” feed from both pumps (through a 1/8 barb+1/8barb+1/2thread 3way), 5/16” efi male with just a 1.5mm hole, 3/8” efi male with 1.5 mm hole, and -8 AN male port. Then a -8 teflon hose feeds the hat through a check valve and an adaptor AN to EFI got a heavy duty one from DW that locks on and has internal orings.



Works great, gasoline 1000+ whp flat 0.8 lambdas upto 34 psi ....



Good luck
 

Last edited by TT.BRN; Feb 1, 2020 at 09:29 AM.
Old Feb 2, 2020 | 10:23 PM
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Hey TT.BRN, nice to know this can be done with out buying high priced stuff from .. can you list the part number of Walbros and share some photos of what you got made and the install process.. I am planning to do the same..
 
Old Feb 3, 2020 | 02:29 PM
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Originally Posted by TT.BRN
Unless you use Ethanol fuel 800whp could be had with the stock pumps and 1000 cc injectors .... But you never know with 10+ years old pumps .... I say do the injectors first and the trims/lambdas will tell you if the pumps are lacking ...



I recently finished a DIY fuel pump upgrade, used walbros as they fit nicely in the stock basket and they have internal check valves. It’s not very difficult but you need to know what you are doing and make some custom parts.



These are the hurdles I came accross:
  • Stock basket is glued shut difficult to open then glue back.
  • You need to feed 2 jet pumps and the rail without losing all the flow to the jets i.e use a restrictor.
  • Internal wiring color coding is weird to say the least. Pump 1 Black and yellow wires BLACK IS POWER. Pump 2 Red+Blue Red is power.
  • Sizes to know: jet pump hose feeds one is 3/8 other is 5/16 efi female, and fitting on the hat feeding rail is 3/8 efi male.
  • Working inside the tank through a tiny hole was very challenging, strongly advise a head mounted light and 2 buckets of patience with this one.


I kept it simple, made a 4 way block at a local machine shop: 1/2” feed from both pumps (through a 1/8 barb+1/8barb+1/2thread 3way), 5/16” efi male with just a 1.5mm hole, 3/8” efi male with 1.5 mm hole, and -8 AN male port. Then a -8 teflon hose feeds the hat through a check valve and an adaptor AN to EFI got a heavy duty one from DW that locks on and has internal orings.



Works great, gasoline 1000+ whp flat 0.8 lambdas upto 34 psi ....



Good luck
Thank you for the info, very much appreciated. Would you mind sharing some photo's of your setup?
The car is on E85 right now, and ID 1300 injectors. Just recently had the rods, head studs, head gaskets, and pistons beefed up. Car is running GT30 turbos, and we are aiming for 800 or better wheel HP. the concerns were running out of fuel on the stock pumps, and glad to know that i dont have to shell out a ton more money. when it comes to this stuff, im completely lost.
again, thank you so much!
 
Old Feb 3, 2020 | 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by RajuPatel
Hey TT.BRN, nice to know this can be done with out buying high priced stuff from .. can you list the part number of Walbros and share some photos of what you got made and the install process.. I am planning to do the same..
X2 on the photo's!
 
Old Feb 4, 2020 | 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by AMGo
Thank you for the info, very much appreciated. Would you mind sharing some photo's of your setup?
The car is on E85 right now, and ID 1300 injectors. Just recently had the rods, head studs, head gaskets, and pistons beefed up. Car is running GT30 turbos, and we are aiming for 800 or better wheel HP. the concerns were running out of fuel on the stock pumps, and glad to know that i dont have to shell out a ton more money. when it comes to this stuff, im completely lost.
again, thank you so much!
800 is really conservative with that setup, 950+ is more realistic, and yes on E85 you will definitely need a pump upgrade at least even upgraded chassis lines and FPR ....

I’d say if you are not confident don’t do it yourself. Several little details have to work together for smooth operation. Intank upgrades go for $1600-$2000, not too much if you consider it comes with a new basket that will be easier to service and all other problems solved/lines made for a quick PNP fit ...

Didn’t really take any pictures of the setup but the premise is easy to understand, this design would work even better:

First, make or buy something like this:




5 way fuel block 4 small 1 big hole, can be any shape you want:

Small hole 1: Barb —————————> Fuel Pump 1
Small hole 2: Barb —————————> Fuel pump 2
Small hole 3: Restricted Efi QC ————> Jet 1
Small hole 4: Restricted Efi QC ————> Jet 2
Big hole: -8AN ======= CheckValve=====> Hat

I’ll check again if I can find any pictures of my system but I doubt it ..


Cheers ..
 
Old Feb 4, 2020 | 03:17 PM
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Found these two pictures, above is the stock basket before I tore it apart. The 3 circles are the feeds you need to account for:
Red and Blue feed the jets Red is 3/8 blue is 5/16
Yellow feeds the hat 3/8

Bellow is how well the walbros fit in upper part of the basket ...



 
Old Feb 4, 2020 | 06:05 PM
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Originally Posted by TT.BRN
800 is really conservative with that setup, 950+ is more realistic, and yes on E85 you will definitely need a pump upgrade at least even upgraded chassis lines and FPR ....

I’d say if you are not confident don’t do it yourself. Several little details have to work together for smooth operation. Intank upgrades go for $1600-$2000, not too much if you consider it comes with a new basket that will be easier to service and all other problems solved/lines made for a quick PNP fit ...

Didn’t really take any pictures of the setup but the premise is easy to understand, this design would work even better:

First, make or buy something like this:




5 way fuel block 4 small 1 big hole, can be any shape you want:

Small hole 1: Barb —————————> Fuel Pump 1
Small hole 2: Barb —————————> Fuel pump 2
Small hole 3: Restricted Efi QC ————> Jet 1
Small hole 4: Restricted Efi QC ————> Jet 2
Big hole: -8AN ======= CheckValve=====> Hat

I’ll check again if I can find any pictures of my system but I doubt it ..


Cheers ..

Keeping it conservative @ 800whp, on E85, will need all this including upgraded chassis lines? or going to the 950 whp mark will? or can i get away with doing a pump setup, and new FPR(or is this really not necessary). Just trying to get an idea, of how much i want to dig into this.

Are you willing to re-create the setup for a fee? i am not familiar with this, and seeing as you know it well. Just thought i would ask.

You have been an awesome help.
 
Old Feb 7, 2020 | 09:13 AM
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Originally Posted by AMGo
Keeping it conservative @ 800whp, on E85, will need all this including upgraded chassis lines? or going to the 950 whp mark will? or can i get away with doing a pump setup, and new FPR(or is this really not necessary). Just trying to get an idea, of how much i want to dig into this.

Are you willing to re-create the setup for a fee? i am not familiar with this, and seeing as you know it well. Just thought i would ask.

You have been an awesome help.
I don’t have first hand experience with ethanol fuels but from many conversations I had with various tuners over the years regarding this issue the takeaway is that an intank upgrade should be good for 1100-1200 whp on gasoline so around 800-850 whp on E85 a bit more with lower blends. Upgrading the chassis lines has its own set of challenges to overcome too but that would support anything you can throw at it.

I’de love to help out if you’re local to me, but since we have an ocean and two continents between us best advice I can give you is to cantact Todd@Protomotive. He’s really a bank of info about these cars and been doing it for decades, he will set you up nicely for your needs. I believe his intank kit costs les than $2K and comes with a new basket that he makes.

Good luck ...

 
Old Feb 14, 2020 | 03:21 AM
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Originally Posted by TT.BRN
Unless you use Ethanol fuel 800whp could be had with the stock pumps and 1000 cc injectors .... But you never know with 10+ years old pumps .... I say do the injectors first and the trims/lambdas will tell you if the pumps are lacking ...



I recently finished a DIY fuel pump upgrade, used walbros as they fit nicely in the stock basket and they have internal check valves. It’s not very difficult but you need to know what you are doing and make some custom parts.



These are the hurdles I came accross:
  • Stock basket is glued shut difficult to open then glue back.
  • You need to feed 2 jet pumps and the rail without losing all the flow to the jets i.e use a restrictor.
  • Internal wiring color coding is weird to say the least. Pump 1 Black and yellow wires BLACK IS POWER. Pump 2 Red+Blue Red is power.
  • Sizes to know: jet pump hose feeds one is 3/8 other is 5/16 efi female, and fitting on the hat feeding rail is 3/8 efi male.
  • Working inside the tank through a tiny hole was very challenging, strongly advise a head mounted light and 2 buckets of patience with this one.


I kept it simple, made a 4 way block at a local machine shop: 1/2” feed from both pumps (through a 1/8 barb+1/8barb+1/2thread 3way), 5/16” efi male with just a 1.5mm hole, 3/8” efi male with 1.5 mm hole, and -8 AN male port. Then a -8 teflon hose feeds the hat through a check valve and an adaptor AN to EFI got a heavy duty one from DW that locks on and has internal orings.



Works great, gasoline 1000+ whp flat 0.8 lambdas upto 34 psi ....



Good luck

isn't this kit built by mototech in Bahrain? I remember it working great and making over 1000whp without any issues.

 
Old Feb 21, 2020 | 11:51 AM
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Is that really needed? Can someone simply get the basket open, drop in 2 Walboro's, and close it back up? Hook it up to stock wiring, and fittings? I spoke to a Porsche engine builder recently, and told me to just drop in the Walboro's, and let it rip.
 
Old Feb 21, 2020 | 10:53 PM
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Originally Posted by TT.BRN
Unless you use Ethanol fuel 800whp could be had with the stock pumps and 1000 cc injectors .... But you never know with 10+ years old pumps .... I say do the injectors first and the trims/lambdas will tell you if the pumps are lacking ...



I recently finished a DIY fuel pump upgrade, used walbros as they fit nicely in the stock basket and they have internal check valves. It’s not very difficult but you need to know what you are doing and make some custom parts.



These are the hurdles I came accross:
  • Stock basket is glued shut difficult to open then glue back.
  • You need to feed 2 jet pumps and the rail without losing all the flow to the jets i.e use a restrictor.
  • Internal wiring color coding is weird to say the least. Pump 1 Black and yellow wires BLACK IS POWER. Pump 2 Red+Blue Red is power.
  • Sizes to know: jet pump hose feeds one is 3/8 other is 5/16 efi female, and fitting on the hat feeding rail is 3/8 efi male.
  • Working inside the tank through a tiny hole was very challenging, strongly advise a head mounted light and 2 buckets of patience with this one.


I kept it simple, made a 4 way block at a local machine shop: 1/2” feed from both pumps (through a 1/8 barb+1/8barb+1/2thread 3way), 5/16” efi male with just a 1.5mm hole, 3/8” efi male with 1.5 mm hole, and -8 AN male port. Then a -8 teflon hose feeds the hat through a check valve and an adaptor AN to EFI got a heavy duty one from DW that locks on and has internal orings.



Works great, gasoline 1000+ whp flat 0.8 lambdas upto 34 psi ....



Good luck
how did you figure out the 1.5mm holes?
 
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