I recall replacing the stock suspension with H&R coilovers on my 996TT and it wasn't very difficult. I want to retain the stock dampers in my recently purchased 997 but lower the car about 1" so I got a set of H&R springs from Tire Rack. At first I was going to have a shop do it but many won't because they don't install parts that were purchased elsewhere and the few quotes I got were staggering - in the $1800 range. I picked up the special tools required to disassemble the struts for cars equipped with PASM and the job looks like it is straightforward but time consuming.
Does anyone have experience with this task and if so any advice based on their experience? After changing the plugs and coils last week I feel like I can do anything...that was 100x harder on the 997T vs 996T.

 

If you have the tools for the PASM strut/spring removal then you're all set. It's a straight forward job.

Tip for those who don't have the PASM strut removal tool: you can cut a slice into the side of a socket for the PASM wire to stick through, then hit it carefully with an impact.

 

I installed H&Rs on my '09 a couple of months ago. Certainly harder than any other suspension job I've done but nothing you can't do yourself. Especially with the tool. I did it the hard way as I was in a rush to get it done by a certain date and the strut tool was slow delivering I managed to get the top front strut nuts off with an offset wrench, large channel locks, and a crowbar to hold the top hat in place. Of course you have to loosen the nut with the strut out of the car which is what makes it so annoying. I guess the suspension sits different in the RWD cars and the front strut nut is accessible through the hole in the chassis but that hole is in the same place on the AWD cars and the nut is hidden under the chassis so you can't loosen it while installed.

The rear is a piece of cake but having to pull the front entirely out of the car is the big reason this job takes hours and not minutes to do each corner. I chose to unbolt the driveshaft at the diff but some people do it at the wheel hub. My torque wrench doesn't go above 250 ft lbs so I separated them at the diff.

Change the front top strut mounts and all four bumpstops while you're in there, unless they are in excellent shape. Mine had 55k on them when I bought the car so I swapped all of them. I also put in RSS rear toe links and was able to get the camber and toe exactly where I wanted (-3 rear -2 front camber, toe in spec). I'd suggest at least doing the rear links while you're in there so you can just get the alignment done once.

 

I completely forgot that when I did my 996T I had already removed the front diff and axles so there was no issue with the wheel hubs. My car has 50K miles and I picked up new upper strut bearings for the front because I know they tend to fall apart over time. I'm probably going to do the job this weekend - or at least start it and get as far as I can until I need a break. If I need 250ft lbs I'll just pick up an air impact gun since my electric one maxes at 160ft lbs. Thanks for the tip though! Having all the tools ready in advance makes it so much less of a pain in the @$$ when you get stuck in the middle of a job.

 

Tell me about it. Took me 10 days to do the job, as I went on and off with it while I waited for new parts and tools to come in.

 

I looked at the manual when prepping for the job and the steps include removing the entire strut and wheel carrier, separating the tie rods/ball joints, etc. This is not what I remember from the past when I put coilovers on my RWD only 996T. Is it possible to just remove the upper mount from the chassis, swing the strut down and replace the spring without removing the entire strut body from the lower suspension components? I didn't buy the special (expensive) ball joint and tire rod separator tools and I don't want to use a pickle fork/hammer and risk damaging something.
Why do they sell these cars with so much ugly fender gap? It looks horrible at the stock ride height.

 

I think it's possible on a 2wd car but not so much of these 4wd turbo cars. I used a Gearwrench 3916D universal ball joint separator from Amazon, it's only $25 and works okay. I was able to do one side without separating the lower control arm ball joint but it was because when yanked on the hub assembly for the strut to clear the fender, the CV axle came out of the diff. Fortunately, I was able to slide the CV axle back in without issue. I don't recommend that you do this.

 

Yes I can imagine it would be problematic. Fortunately I found a well reviewed shop that will do the install and an alignment next week. I like doing some jobs on the car but suspension work isn't on the list.

 

Curious what the shop quoted u for the install

 

With alignment just over 1K.

 

Separating the lower ball joint is the only way to do it comfortably with no fear of fender damage. I've seen people leave the lower ball joint attached and worm out the assembly out by pulling down on the strut and pulling outward (FENDER DANGER). Whenever I see this... I'm like why. Breaking the lower ball joint loose takes 5 minutes at the most. Use a brass hammer on the area of the spindle where the ball joint goes through it. A few firm whacks is all it takes. Brass is softer than aluminum, so there is no risk of damaging the aluminum spindle. Pry down on the LCA when the ball joint is free, and there you have it. I've done this many times on my own cars, and the last car I did for a fellow local RennList member. After doing many, I honestly think the rear is more of a pain in the *** because you have to take apart the interior to access the rear shock mounts.

Also, you don't need the PASM special tool for the PASM wire pass through. Once the assembly is in the compressor, you can use a 21mm Crows foot or wrench to turn it out while holding the top washer in place with pliers. The top washer has an alignment tab on it that slides onto a relief at the top of the shock absorbers piston rod. When the washer is held in place, it holds the piston rod in place which prevents it from spinning with the top nut.

$1k is what I charged on the last one I did, but that also included replacing the front inner and outer CV boots (which should be done at the same time as suspension install if they are original to the car).

If anyone is looking for an installer in the DC/MD/VA on 997's.. PM me.

 

Everything you said is right on the money. Thinking back to the coilover install on my 996T I had a he11 of a time working in the confined space in the rear of the car to get at the strut mounting hardware and you're right about getting the wheel carrier and strut assembly out in the front. That was 5 years ago when I didn't have a kid. These days time is more valuable than money so that's why I decided not to do this one myself. Since the car is already on the quickjacks in my garage I'm installing a new Exhaust instead...a nice easy fun job! I'll ask about the shape of the CV boots when I'm dropping off the car for the spring install later this week. Good idea.

 

when I asked you for some work on my car, you ignored me.

 

If I recall, you asked me to pin coolant pipes and install a clutch in a time frame that was not realistic during a time at which I was busy working on friends’ NSX’s in prep for NSXPO. I never actually gave you an estimate for the work, and you suggested what that price SHOULD be. This and the continued PM’s and DM’s on social media about it is when I ignored you.

Not my fault you couldn’t take a hint.

Didn’t you sell your car anyway? I remember seeing it for sale on the marketplace.

 

i never implied you gave me an estimate, I was just showing you what other’s charged. I asked what your timeline was, and indicated that I could WAIT -

I’d rather not do business with someone who isn’t transparent and wastes ones time, you could have been open/blunt with me; thanks for saving me the hassle. People do yourself a favor and don’t waste your time like I did, waiting for a simple response.

my hint is hidden above