storage
A lot of people just put winter tires on and keep driving.
If you do want to store it you should get a battery maintainer - the battery in a 911 will drain in short order. You can buy the one with the Porsche name on it from your dealer or you can get the EXACT same one minus the Porsche sticker at Cdn Tire for one third the cost (thats where I got mine). It is a CTEK 3300. It was about $60.
Fill the gas tank to the top and add a fuel stabilizer.
Fill the tires to the maximum pressure shown on the sidewalls to help keep flatspots to a minimum.
Get an oil change when you start driving again in spring.
Don't start it up during winter unless you can get it fully warmed up. On one hand it is good to run the motor because it will keep the seals / valve guides, etc lubricated and help keep gaskets from drying out. But if you don't let it fully warm up when yuo run it it will cause a lot of condensation to form inside and out and that is bad. Good way to rust out your mufflers no matter what they are coated with.
The bottom line is that cars are not designed to sit for that long. They are "happier" being driven.
But coming from a city where the "sanding" trucks actually use gravel (when the smallest grain is the size of a green pea, it is really called 'sand'?) I don't drive my nice car in the gravel months - so I understand your concern. I would have to "clear bra" the entire hood, front fenders, A pillars, side-view mirrors, front half of the roof, the entire rear fenders and count on replacing the windshield every spring if I drove my 911 in winter here. Mybe I'm just pickey.
Anyway, the cold won't hurt your car. If they do a nice job of keeping the roads clear in Regina just drive it.
Good luck.
If you do want to store it you should get a battery maintainer - the battery in a 911 will drain in short order. You can buy the one with the Porsche name on it from your dealer or you can get the EXACT same one minus the Porsche sticker at Cdn Tire for one third the cost (thats where I got mine). It is a CTEK 3300. It was about $60.
Fill the gas tank to the top and add a fuel stabilizer.
Fill the tires to the maximum pressure shown on the sidewalls to help keep flatspots to a minimum.
Get an oil change when you start driving again in spring.
Don't start it up during winter unless you can get it fully warmed up. On one hand it is good to run the motor because it will keep the seals / valve guides, etc lubricated and help keep gaskets from drying out. But if you don't let it fully warm up when yuo run it it will cause a lot of condensation to form inside and out and that is bad. Good way to rust out your mufflers no matter what they are coated with.
The bottom line is that cars are not designed to sit for that long. They are "happier" being driven.
But coming from a city where the "sanding" trucks actually use gravel (when the smallest grain is the size of a green pea, it is really called 'sand'?) I don't drive my nice car in the gravel months - so I understand your concern. I would have to "clear bra" the entire hood, front fenders, A pillars, side-view mirrors, front half of the roof, the entire rear fenders and count on replacing the windshield every spring if I drove my 911 in winter here. Mybe I'm just pickey.
Anyway, the cold won't hurt your car. If they do a nice job of keeping the roads clear in Regina just drive it.
Good luck.
If you can do a self oil change where you are going to store the car and do not start the car after the oil change you are slightly better off since there will be not be any nasties in the oil in contact with the engine etc. over the long winter.
Also:
Cover the car if you can and put some mouse traps around/under it - these pesky critters can make a nice nest in your car and/or chew through electrical wiring.
Drive the car onto 1/2 inch think plywood boards under each tire - it helps to avoid flatspotting the tires.
Also:
Cover the car if you can and put some mouse traps around/under it - these pesky critters can make a nice nest in your car and/or chew through electrical wiring.
Drive the car onto 1/2 inch think plywood boards under each tire - it helps to avoid flatspotting the tires.
Last edited by MartinJF; Oct 24, 2008 at 09:49 AM.
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