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Pedal set

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Old Apr 10, 2009 | 07:40 PM
  #46  
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Didn't have time to do the brake yet, but as MartinJF suggested, drill a small pilot hole with 1/16 and then drill with 3/16.

Gas pedal is easy and drilled the holes while I had the pedals lined up. Drilling the holes on the clutch is easy but press the cluth down with your had so the angel straighter.
 
Old Apr 13, 2009 | 11:56 PM
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Problem....
Finished the install with the Rennline Pedals with the rubber grips.(thanks for all the good tips btw) and they look great
However the shoes I wore today had a small edge on the sole and they got caught a few times on the edge of the brake pedal as I lifted from the Gas to the brake pedal. I really suprised me in one instance as it got caught enough to actually effect a quick braking.......
I looked closely at the pedal I removed from the brake and notice a rubber edge which was about a 3/4 inch which tapered in to the center whereby it prevented any possiblity of catching a shoe edge on the bottem side of the pedal. The gorgeous rennline pedals didnt have any such a tapered edge and I caught my shoes from time to time...
I checked my wifes Land Rover and also noticed the tapered back rubber .
Not that she's doing any sport driving but it was interesting to note that this was a consistant way to build pedals.

Did anyone else ever have this happen or should I just buy shoes without soles........or maybe reinstall the original pedals.... I would hate to have my foot get stuck on the track.
 
Old Apr 14, 2009 | 04:48 PM
  #48  
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I haven't installed the brake pedals yet (I'll probably get to it this weekend) so can't comment about your situation. How many times did it happen? Maybe drive with different shoes to see if it happens again.

BTW, how did you drill the holes for the brake pads?
 
Old Apr 14, 2009 | 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by paigow
I haven't installed the brake pedals yet (I'll probably get to it this weekend) so can't comment about your situation. How many times did it happen? Maybe drive with different shoes to see if it happens again.

BTW, how did you drill the holes for the brake pads?
I was more aware today of lifting and replanting on the brake rather than going straight to the brake. Also had different shoes...I like the look so much that I hope it was just the shoes...however the rubber inverted lip is on the original pedal for a reason..... hope it doesnt occur again. would like to hear about your experience once you have driven for a while. I have the PDK car so maybe the rennline brake pedal is alot bigger and more sensitive to the "hooking".

I used a household wooden bread cutting board behind the brake pedal so that it would brace it on a angle while I used a metal center punch to set up for the 1/16 first pilot holes. The bread board really helped. I marked the bare metal first with a red marker pen for the holes. I then measured the red marks to make sure they were lined up. After I made the center punch indentation .. I drilled the original pilot 1/16" holes ...then finished with the 3/16" drill. I kept the bread board in place as it kept the pedal braced and up higher so that it was easier to drill. Start off with the Brake Pads before the dead pedal or the accelerator pedal as it takes more time.
I think using the bread board and measuring the red marks for the center punch helped a lot.
Good luck.
 
Old Apr 17, 2009 | 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by paigow
If you have the toe/heel extensions, do you think the gas lifter plate is necessary? I've read people like just the toe/heel extension and others who like the gas lifter plate a lot better.
Originally Posted by NorthVan997C2S
I would say no, when under braking where you would want to rev match, the gas and brake pedals are the same height. However it is all up to your individual style of heel toeing.
What about those with PCCB? When under braking the initial bite is a bit stronger, it seems like the gas and brake pedals are never the same height unless stopping. Is gas lifer plate a good idea?
 
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