And WHY do you think oil consumption NORMAL? And WHY is it even more normal on a DFI engine? It may be a common problem with Porsche engines, but it is not normal or desired and in most case, can be eliminated by using the proper oil.

 

I also do not think a 4 stroke engine consuming as much oil as these new DFI Porsche engines is normal....but Porsche seems to not agree with us. I just think they are covering their butt until they can fix the problem.

However on the other hand....what oil do you think will help this engine to not consumer as much oil as it does?

 

An oil with a higher absolute viscosity rating than Mobil's 0W40. 15W50 is a good one and is fine to temps below zero. Mobil's 15W50 also has higher ZDDP protection than 0W40.

 

No disrespect intended MDrums, always enjoy your posts. But I am convinced the bubble wrapper/***** foot crowd are their own worst enemies. So, before you try to fix the *problem* by changing oil viscosity...

Break the darn thing in by driving it hard!

Warm engine. Conduct 2/3/4th gear, 95% throttle, uphill pulls. Repeatedly. Then, do it again. Rinse repeat enjoy! Best to do the break -in as soon as possible (in the first 100-200 miles).

Long interstate runs are worthless, and indeed detrimental, for a proper break-in. You have to load the engine and open the throttle and make it work for a living.

My Cayenne at first drank oil because it sat on the dealer floor for months and then I had no choice but to put on its initial 400 miles as highway driving. The worst possible break-in combination. Then, I was able to employ a proper break-in and within a couple weeks it went from qt/600 miles to qt/2000 miles.

My C4S is averaging qt/2800 miles.

Highway miles and lugging in a high gear at low RPM's (early shifting) are toxic for a good break-in.

And the 997.2 is sooo easy to add oil to! As Cam mentioned above, when you unscrew the oil filler cap, you are met with a nifty cool pull-out thingie which makes it oh so easy to add oil without spilling.

Yrralis makes an important point to NOT overfill, but if you have doubts as to the true oil level, just do a partial oil add, yes? Use 30-40% of the qt bottle and then drive and recheck?

Did I mention how much I love driving my C4S? What an amazing car.

 

I did break the car in a little harder than what Porsche has in the manual. I did a lot of acell and decell session and heat soak session too. Drove the wifey crazy! I have 7800 miles on the car now with 6 hard track days too.
There are no hills in Florida to do uphill climbs with but I stayed off the interstate for a while mostly driving in my eractic break in period way on the 2 lane country roads.
I am very aware about not over filling...I have posted many times about this and I was the person who discovered the fact that the 997.2 oil level indicator might read low but a re-check will sometimes read higher...then if you turn the car off for a few minutes it will read even higher...thus be careful to not over fill.

Thanks for the input though, Mike

 

More than anything else, engine braking is the best way to get the rings to seat as best as they are going to. Bring the car up near redline and let the engine bring you back down. IMO, this should be standard driving of any car, using the engine for braking rather than only the brakes. It become automatic for you after a while.

On the street, brakes are for stopping....not slowing down.

 

For track driving engine braking instead of using the brakes is not the way to do it. A transmission costs a lot more than pads and rotors. At the track you rev match for downshifting so that you do not upset the balance of the car and use the brake to slow down.

 

First of all, I clearly stated STREET drivings. Secondly, at the track any good tracker DOES use engine braking continuiously in combination with the brakes.

 

There will be some engine braking naturally with heel and toe rev matching and throttle modulation but not really all that much. The brakes do most of the slowing.

 

+1 - it's all there.

 

The only time you are not engine braking at the track is when you are accellerating or in the middle of a shift. If you aren't, you are not in control of your car.

 

If it still has the appetite for the oil after repeated break-in attempts then I feel your pain and would share the frustration! Lack of hills and mountains is exactly why I moved from Alabama (S of the state is as flat a FL as you know) to the West

I know the whole break-in/oil consumption issue is has been beat to death.

No doubt the wifey did get tired of your erratic driving! lol. My wife has gotten used to mine...haha.

In any event, best of luck and regards to all having this problem (and if you have not driven it hard for a couple weeks do that NOW and see if it does not fix the issue).

 

It is a new car, so i would just take it to the dealer and ask them to handle it!!

 

I suppose the key word is "normal" and how one defines the term . It is commonly observed on the DFI engines .

If you are suggesting that Porsche is recommending the IM "proper" oil can you support this claim with some proof ?

 

I've hit 3K miles since taking delivery 4/20/09. So far the electronic dipstick continues to read full. Varying the rpms seem to be a key factor for a good engine break in, so the occasional foray into the 5-6K range is a good thing right off the dealer's lot.