New Project: headers and Fabspeed x-pipe
New Project: headers and Fabspeed x-pipe
I recently had a chance to purchase a used set of (EVOMS-style) headers for my 'S'. Having been repeatedly warned about the difficulty and risk of getting the old header bolts out, I lube'd them (both block and cat side) repeatedly beginning a week before I planned to begin the work. The header bolts came out with little difficulty, but five out of six cat bolts snapped off with very little effort. Knowing I could drill out the mess, I used this as an excuse to buy a Fabspeed x-pipe. Seems like a great design, I've been very pleased with my Fabspeed Max-Flo mufflers and besides, the patient was already open. So it seemed like the best time to do it. It's a very nice piece BTW.
The project was relatively straightforward. But here are a few tips:
1. As noted above, leave plenty of time to lube (WD-40 or equivalent) up all of the fittings;
2. Despite what is stated (or implied) in the directions, the project is far easier with the rear bumper and heat shields removed. In fact, I don't think it can be done otherwise. The x-pipe is one big piece and takes a bit of maneuvering to get it all lined up. As others have noted, the bumper removal is very easy to do. Rear tires and brake light assemblies have to come out to access a few mounting screws. First time for me.;
3. I bought a fresh set of hardware - stainless steel nuts and bolts (Mr. Metric), new Porsche muffler clamps, and a set of copper gaskets (both ends) from Fabspeed;
4. Take some care with the O2 sensors. I wrapped them in plastic after removing them from the old cat, and used MAF-sensor spray to clean them off (I figured that if it's safe for a MAF, it should work on the O2 sensors);
5. The airbox needs to come out (I have an EVOM CAI) for reasons below. If you haven't done it, it's very straightforward. 5-10 minutes or so. Just be careful when unclipping the MAF sensor;
6. The (two outer) O2 sensors have to be re-routed to reach the holes in the x-pipe. In general, the wires for the sensors are barely long enough for the x-pipe locations. Thus the airbox removal for full access to the sensor wires and 'stretch' them through their mounting points.
7. I pre-twisted the O2 sensor wires so that when screwed in, they wouldn't be twisted and under stress. In general, be careful with these things, and make sure the thermal coating over the wires are tucked back in leaving no gaps. The sensors require a 22 mm wrench.
8. Torque setting for the header bolts is a modest 17 ft/lbs. I couldn't find the setting for the cat-side bolts, so I tightened firmly. With stainless hardware and thick taps on the headers and cats, there wasn't much risk.
I haven't dyno'd the car (anatomical or Mustang) so I'll report back later. I will say that it is somewhat louder, but not unruly. More of a whooshing sound at low RPM but edgier under load at high RPM.
Fun project. Many steps but all simple.
The project was relatively straightforward. But here are a few tips:
1. As noted above, leave plenty of time to lube (WD-40 or equivalent) up all of the fittings;
2. Despite what is stated (or implied) in the directions, the project is far easier with the rear bumper and heat shields removed. In fact, I don't think it can be done otherwise. The x-pipe is one big piece and takes a bit of maneuvering to get it all lined up. As others have noted, the bumper removal is very easy to do. Rear tires and brake light assemblies have to come out to access a few mounting screws. First time for me.;
3. I bought a fresh set of hardware - stainless steel nuts and bolts (Mr. Metric), new Porsche muffler clamps, and a set of copper gaskets (both ends) from Fabspeed;
4. Take some care with the O2 sensors. I wrapped them in plastic after removing them from the old cat, and used MAF-sensor spray to clean them off (I figured that if it's safe for a MAF, it should work on the O2 sensors);
5. The airbox needs to come out (I have an EVOM CAI) for reasons below. If you haven't done it, it's very straightforward. 5-10 minutes or so. Just be careful when unclipping the MAF sensor;
6. The (two outer) O2 sensors have to be re-routed to reach the holes in the x-pipe. In general, the wires for the sensors are barely long enough for the x-pipe locations. Thus the airbox removal for full access to the sensor wires and 'stretch' them through their mounting points.
7. I pre-twisted the O2 sensor wires so that when screwed in, they wouldn't be twisted and under stress. In general, be careful with these things, and make sure the thermal coating over the wires are tucked back in leaving no gaps. The sensors require a 22 mm wrench.
8. Torque setting for the header bolts is a modest 17 ft/lbs. I couldn't find the setting for the cat-side bolts, so I tightened firmly. With stainless hardware and thick taps on the headers and cats, there wasn't much risk.
I haven't dyno'd the car (anatomical or Mustang) so I'll report back later. I will say that it is somewhat louder, but not unruly. More of a whooshing sound at low RPM but edgier under load at high RPM.
Fun project. Many steps but all simple.
Oooh, good point. How long do I have to leave the battery disconnected?
15-20 minutes should be OK. Somebody here wrote that even 5min may be enough, I usually waited for 15.
If it will pop up error code when you start it - means it went over reset. Error code will go away by itself momentarily.
In 20-40 miles after reset car should settle to new settings.
If it will pop up error code when you start it - means it went over reset. Error code will go away by itself momentarily.
In 20-40 miles after reset car should settle to new settings.
Thanks you for the tip.
BTW, after the picture was taken I took a tip from Stacy's book of car care and washed the area under the bumper - heat shield, sheet metal, plastic, etc. Looks like new. Of course, once the bumper is on, no one will know. But I'll sleep better.
BTW, after the picture was taken I took a tip from Stacy's book of car care and washed the area under the bumper - heat shield, sheet metal, plastic, etc. Looks like new. Of course, once the bumper is on, no one will know. But I'll sleep better.
Last edited by Verde; Sep 26, 2009 at 09:39 PM. Reason: typo * 2

I`ll have to wash my car tomorrow - going to an auto-x event and it will be pouring rain whole day tomorrow. Probably will get some dirt on my car.
You're breakin' my little OCD heart dude!
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AMAZING how you do feel better when things are cleaned....even IF you can't see them!!
Have a great nights sleep,LOL!!!
Stacy
Thanks, and I really do agree. It's just nicer to have the car all clean and buttoned up, and much nicer when you're working on it. I usually wear latex gloves when I'm servicing the car (not that ****, but too many years of mechanical work and my hands crack easily if I don't) but it's still nice to work on a 'new car'.
BTW, took it for a longer drive (it did seem to run differently after an ECU reset) and I'm impressed. It SEEMS to have a bit more pep when accelerating and definitely has that 'bad boy' sound.
Glad I did it, but happier that I did it myself. Every time I do one of these projects, I feel like it's really 'my' car.
BTW, took it for a longer drive (it did seem to run differently after an ECU reset) and I'm impressed. It SEEMS to have a bit more pep when accelerating and definitely has that 'bad boy' sound.
Glad I did it, but happier that I did it myself. Every time I do one of these projects, I feel like it's really 'my' car.
Well, small update. Took the car for a longer drive today. Good news is that there's definitely more power available. Hard to put my finger on it, but it just feels 'lighter'. Accelerates more sprightly and deceleration from engine braking is reduced. It's almost like having a lighter flywheel (or so I suppose).
Bad news is that the car threw a CEL. I'm very bummed. Very.
Bad news is that the car threw a CEL. I'm very bummed. Very.
BTW, took it for a longer drive (it did seem to run differently after an ECU reset) and I'm impressed. It SEEMS to have a bit more pep when accelerating and definitely has that 'bad boy' sound.
Glad I did it, but happier that I did it myself. Every time I do one of these projects, I feel like it's really 'my' car.
Glad I did it, but happier that I did it myself. Every time I do one of these projects, I feel like it's really 'my' car.
PS. I finally washed my car today too - first time since July.

PPS. Did not see your CEL message - what a bummer... Well, if it may make you feel any better - I just returned from another auto-x and no issues, as usual... Everything is fine... Did you read that CEL code?
Last edited by utkinpol; Sep 27, 2009 at 02:58 PM.
How do I read the CEL code? And no, I don't feel any better, though I'm totally happy that you've had no problems. And a really clean car too!! 

Congrats - if you`ll push it repeatedly hard enough into redline you`ll notice difference right away. it`s not like 'SEEMS' - it is really there.
PS. I finally washed my car today too - first time since July.
PPS. Did not see your CEL message - what a bummer... Well, if it may make you feel any better - I just returned from another auto-x and no issues, as usual... Everything is fine... Did you read that CEL code?
PS. I finally washed my car today too - first time since July.

PPS. Did not see your CEL message - what a bummer... Well, if it may make you feel any better - I just returned from another auto-x and no issues, as usual... Everything is fine... Did you read that CEL code?
Stacy
I suspect O2 sensors, really, not sure why would new catalytic converter by itself contributed to a CEL code, it is pretty much all the same thing, stock or OEM cat. I may be wrong, of course.
In my case my indy Porsche shop has PIWIS, I did not have to use them yet but if needed they can read codes. Still a nasty thing, I would be frustrated too if I got such a Sunday present.



