Track Wear and Tear / Costs
#16
don't know, many people seem to think it is awful and swear by Motul or Castrol. I have not had any issues with the ATE Blue.
#17
nothing much if you do not forget to flush it after DE sessions. blue one stains your lines and tank, plus its boiling point is kinda low. motul is better, but i also use ate blue/yellow becouse it is just way easier to flush with them - you know exactly when new liquid is on when it changes color.
#18
ditto with the gold. altho, blue is now stitting on shelf and will start alternating in upcoming season to make fluid changes easier.
#19
Giro Slotted
I late brake, and drive hard. After a two days I have 1/4" spider cracks coming from all the drilled holes. I switched to the Giro Slotted, and they have gone 6 days with very minimal wear. I highly recommend them to anyone looking to replace there rotors. They are more money initially, but are lighter, a little bigger, and when it comes time to replace the rotors are similar to the OEM costs.
I have been looking for some decent quality slotted rotors or even solid rotors. I have the same issue with the cracks after only one or two track days (I brake late and drive hard too... LOL) Where do you get your Giro rotors? are you using the two-piece?
#20
Those hairline cracks do not mean your rotors are toast. All the drilled rotors do that w/out much abuse. My mechanic told me only worry if the cracks connect two holes or the rotors get less than min thickness tolerance. I now need new rotors, but they are original with 40K miles and 8 track days, two from PO.
I think the answer to the OP's question is really, as usual, it depends...on the track mostly and then how hard you drive.
I started tracking this year and did six days at Roebling Road. I bought Performance Friction pads and only use them on the track...after six days they have a lot of meat left...but Roebling is a high speed track and easier on pads and tires than most.
Also still on the same tires, although they are finished and will need to be replaced before the next track day and maybe before I head to the Rolex 24 in a couple weeks.
My son raced Rotax Karts and I'll tell you what, a weekend at Roebling with my Porsche is less expensive and less complicated than racing a kart for a weekend
Oh, and $700-$1,000 per day?? Find a new event. I do a whole weekend at Roebling with Coastal Empire for $175...includes pizza and beer Friday night and BBQ & Beer and live music Saturday night. AND they get us a block rates at the Hampton inn for $69/night. Great bunch of people too.
Guess I'm pretty lucky.
I think the answer to the OP's question is really, as usual, it depends...on the track mostly and then how hard you drive.
I started tracking this year and did six days at Roebling Road. I bought Performance Friction pads and only use them on the track...after six days they have a lot of meat left...but Roebling is a high speed track and easier on pads and tires than most.
Also still on the same tires, although they are finished and will need to be replaced before the next track day and maybe before I head to the Rolex 24 in a couple weeks.
My son raced Rotax Karts and I'll tell you what, a weekend at Roebling with my Porsche is less expensive and less complicated than racing a kart for a weekend
Oh, and $700-$1,000 per day?? Find a new event. I do a whole weekend at Roebling with Coastal Empire for $175...includes pizza and beer Friday night and BBQ & Beer and live music Saturday night. AND they get us a block rates at the Hampton inn for $69/night. Great bunch of people too.
Guess I'm pretty lucky.
#21
I had fresh ATE blue overheat and had no brakes right before the bus stop at the Glen. Been using Motul racing fluid, or Castrol SRF ever since with no issues.
#22
The amount of wear and tear totally depends on how you drive. I'm in my third year of doing DE events and I'm just now starting to delve into pagid pads and higher temp fluids.
I'm running pilot super sports at the moment and have about 15k miles on them including about 10 de events. The tread is fine.
The rears have half of that because I had to replace them due to a nail in the sidewall.
My rear rotors were replaced at 65k miles. My fronts at 40k.
I bought the car used @26k but assume they were the original set that I replaced.
The stock pads and fluid did fine by me for some time. Now I have a track seat, no harness yet and drive a little harder. With the pagid pads and faster times I'm pushing the tires to the limit. My next move will be to move on to the ad08r tires sometime this summer.
Now, this has been my experience. I'm not the fastest and aggressive driver. I'm in no hurry to find where the limits are and just enjoy going out and driving fast and developing my skills. I place emphasis on being smooth and I like to think that has an effect on wear and tear.
Your mileage may vary.
I'm running pilot super sports at the moment and have about 15k miles on them including about 10 de events. The tread is fine.
The rears have half of that because I had to replace them due to a nail in the sidewall.
My rear rotors were replaced at 65k miles. My fronts at 40k.
I bought the car used @26k but assume they were the original set that I replaced.
The stock pads and fluid did fine by me for some time. Now I have a track seat, no harness yet and drive a little harder. With the pagid pads and faster times I'm pushing the tires to the limit. My next move will be to move on to the ad08r tires sometime this summer.
Now, this has been my experience. I'm not the fastest and aggressive driver. I'm in no hurry to find where the limits are and just enjoy going out and driving fast and developing my skills. I place emphasis on being smooth and I like to think that has an effect on wear and tear.
Your mileage may vary.
Last edited by Hella-Buggin'; 01-10-2015 at 08:21 PM.
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