Change Glove Box Latch on 997.1
#1
Change Glove Box Latch on 997.1
I put a plant in the front passenger well on valentines day and ended up scratching the glove box latch. Rather that leaving it alone Or trying to paint is silver, I found the latch for $38 on suncoastparts.com. I am ordering it.
http://www.suncoastparts.com/product//9X7GLATCH.html
How easy would it be to replace it? I will have to use the existing lock cylinder.
Thanks!
http://www.suncoastparts.com/product//9X7GLATCH.html
How easy would it be to replace it? I will have to use the existing lock cylinder.
Thanks!
#3
It's not that hard... if you pull the whole door out. I didn't out of laziness b/c I didn't want to undo and re-do my Dension cables mounted in the there. This created somewhat of a challenge but all in all not too bad. Biggest issue leaving it in place... the screws (T-10 or 15 IIRC) weren't all as easily accessible necessitating a flexible shaft driver on a few. You'll 'think' you have them all out and then find a few more (I think there are 10 or 11 in total...they are the felt covered ***** around the inner perimeter and one or two in the middle inside). Plus you'll need 3 hands - LOL.
It's been a while since I changed mine out to CF matching my console/upper dash trim/cupholders/vents/etc. but here are a few things I remember...
- you will end up breaking the retaining tabs holding lock cylinder in old handle. So, just go ahead and break one/two (of the 3) off from the start to make you job easier. Reason being... you need to keep pressure on back side of lock cylinder to keep it in tact during removal for insertion into new handle.
- once lock cylinder inserted in new handle, use your key testing it's rotation/locking a number of times to loosen up before putting handle back in door.
- If you don't have a third or fourth hand... use some small [spring] clamps to keep the latches, which secure door to dash on left and right side, pushed in. This keeps the lever bar (#16 in parts diag) in the 'open' position allowing you to put handle in properly for engagement. Might be different if you remove whole door but this was the only way I could manage to get handle into correct position relative to lever bar. You'll see/know what I mean when you dig in.
- DO NOT, once you 'think' you have new handle in correctly, close door into dash w/o first checking it's proper operation (engagement of lever bar and latches). If you didn't get it to properly engage bar, it'll be a you know what getting door back open when closed to dash...
Total install should be less than 30min, but take your time and don't force anything. Again, make sure handle properly engages lever bar before you secure everything back up.
Good luck
It's been a while since I changed mine out to CF matching my console/upper dash trim/cupholders/vents/etc. but here are a few things I remember...
- you will end up breaking the retaining tabs holding lock cylinder in old handle. So, just go ahead and break one/two (of the 3) off from the start to make you job easier. Reason being... you need to keep pressure on back side of lock cylinder to keep it in tact during removal for insertion into new handle.
- once lock cylinder inserted in new handle, use your key testing it's rotation/locking a number of times to loosen up before putting handle back in door.
- If you don't have a third or fourth hand... use some small [spring] clamps to keep the latches, which secure door to dash on left and right side, pushed in. This keeps the lever bar (#16 in parts diag) in the 'open' position allowing you to put handle in properly for engagement. Might be different if you remove whole door but this was the only way I could manage to get handle into correct position relative to lever bar. You'll see/know what I mean when you dig in.
- DO NOT, once you 'think' you have new handle in correctly, close door into dash w/o first checking it's proper operation (engagement of lever bar and latches). If you didn't get it to properly engage bar, it'll be a you know what getting door back open when closed to dash...
Total install should be less than 30min, but take your time and don't force anything. Again, make sure handle properly engages lever bar before you secure everything back up.
Good luck
#4
Mine is scratched too. Funny that the glovebox leather (full leather int) is just fine, but the handle has a deep scratch.
I can't see the scratch from the driver's seat, so I'm on the fence about replacing mine. Regardless... good info above. Thanks.
I can't see the scratch from the driver's seat, so I'm on the fence about replacing mine. Regardless... good info above. Thanks.
#5
It's not that hard... if you pull the whole door out. I didn't out of laziness b/c I didn't want to undo and re-do my Dension cables mounted in the there. This created somewhat of a challenge but all in all not too bad. Biggest issue leaving it in place... the screws (T-10 or 15 IIRC) weren't all as easily accessible necessitating a flexible shaft driver on a few. You'll 'think' you have them all out and then find a few more (I think there are 10 or 11 in total...they are the felt covered ***** around the inner perimeter and one or two in the middle inside). Plus you'll need 3 hands - LOL.
It's been a while since I changed mine out to CF matching my console/upper dash trim/cupholders/vents/etc. but here are a few things I remember...
- you will end up breaking the retaining tabs holding lock cylinder in old handle. So, just go ahead and break one/two (of the 3) off from the start to make you job easier. Reason being... you need to keep pressure on back side of lock cylinder to keep it in tact during removal for insertion into new handle.
- once lock cylinder inserted in new handle, use your key testing it's rotation/locking a number of times to loosen up before putting handle back in door.
- If you don't have a third or fourth hand... use some small [spring] clamps to keep the latches, which secure door to dash on left and right side, pushed in. This keeps the lever bar (#16 in parts diag) in the 'open' position allowing you to put handle in properly for engagement. Might be different if you remove whole door but this was the only way I could manage to get handle into correct position relative to lever bar. You'll see/know what I mean when you dig in.
- DO NOT, once you 'think' you have new handle in correctly, close door into dash w/o first checking it's proper operation (engagement of lever bar and latches). If you didn't get it to properly engage bar, it'll be a you know what getting door back open when closed to dash...
Total install should be less than 30min, but take your time and don't force anything. Again, make sure handle properly engages lever bar before you secure everything back up.
Good luck
It's been a while since I changed mine out to CF matching my console/upper dash trim/cupholders/vents/etc. but here are a few things I remember...
- you will end up breaking the retaining tabs holding lock cylinder in old handle. So, just go ahead and break one/two (of the 3) off from the start to make you job easier. Reason being... you need to keep pressure on back side of lock cylinder to keep it in tact during removal for insertion into new handle.
- once lock cylinder inserted in new handle, use your key testing it's rotation/locking a number of times to loosen up before putting handle back in door.
- If you don't have a third or fourth hand... use some small [spring] clamps to keep the latches, which secure door to dash on left and right side, pushed in. This keeps the lever bar (#16 in parts diag) in the 'open' position allowing you to put handle in properly for engagement. Might be different if you remove whole door but this was the only way I could manage to get handle into correct position relative to lever bar. You'll see/know what I mean when you dig in.
- DO NOT, once you 'think' you have new handle in correctly, close door into dash w/o first checking it's proper operation (engagement of lever bar and latches). If you didn't get it to properly engage bar, it'll be a you know what getting door back open when closed to dash...
Total install should be less than 30min, but take your time and don't force anything. Again, make sure handle properly engages lever bar before you secure everything back up.
Good luck
#6
Thanks!
PS: I read someone here painted calipers yellow while mounted on the car. Another option would be to tape the handle and key lock cylinder and paint it carefully! Did not think of it before ordering, Oh well.
Last edited by DS997c2s; 02-29-2012 at 01:30 PM. Reason: PS
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