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Clutch and RMS

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Old Mar 15, 2012 | 09:25 AM
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Clutch and RMS

Well, it looks like after 70,000 miles it is time to replace the clutch.

On the way home last night the clutch pedal developed a very mushy feel. I brought it to the dealer this morning and he confirmed that a new clutch is needed. He also suggested replacing the RMS while he was in there (only an additional $100). So we are going to go for that. Just hope that there was no flywheel damage (unlikely since I caught the problem early).

Along with a brake fluid flush and upgrading to Michelen PSS I should be good for the summer and then some.
 
Old Mar 15, 2012 | 02:04 PM
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preventive maintenance is good but i have heard a differing opinion on the RMS - "if it aint broke, dont fix it". when they open up the car, if the RMS is dry/looks normal, why screw with something that is working well? when i got a new clutch, i asked my indy to change it also but they didnt based on the way it looked (a-ok). just sayin.
 
Old Mar 15, 2012 | 02:07 PM
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Also, with those miles you may want to look at doing the AOS and IMS upgrade too. All is shared labor while the tranny is dropped. Thoughts on this?
 
Old Mar 15, 2012 | 02:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Parkcity911
Also, with those miles you may want to look at doing the AOS and IMS upgrade too. All is shared labor while the tranny is dropped. Thoughts on this?
it's a 2006 so chances are he has the bearing upgrade which requires cracking the case to get to IMS. cost prohibitive.
 
Old Mar 16, 2012 | 10:47 AM
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Well it looks like I wasn't so lucky after all. New flywheel is needed too. $1,500 for the part!
 
Old Mar 17, 2012 | 08:55 AM
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You might as well do the water pump while you are there
 
Old Mar 17, 2012 | 06:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Sharkys
You might as well do the water pump while you are there

LOL did that in August under warranty!
 
Old Mar 17, 2012 | 09:20 PM
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As others have said, I wouldn't touch the RMS if it isn't leaking. Same with the IMS. If they haven't leaked after 40k miles (and definitely at 70k), it's general experience that it's probably not going to leak for a long time. If you pull it out, you're basically messing with a part that's performing perfectly.
 
Old Mar 18, 2012 | 04:57 AM
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Chances are that your clutch disk failed as a result of a failed pressure plate. When this happens it usually only applied pressure on one side of the clutch plate against the flywheel making the flywheel failure very quick. Ask me how I know

The flywheel price seems to be on the high end. At least you were able to get 70k miles on it. Mine took a hit at 32k.
 
Old Mar 18, 2012 | 08:55 AM
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Originally Posted by MLindgren
Chances are that your clutch disk failed as a result of a failed pressure plate. When this happens it usually only applied pressure on one side of the clutch plate against the flywheel making the flywheel failure very quick. Ask me how I know

The flywheel price seems to be on the high end. At least you were able to get 70k miles on it. Mine took a hit at 32k.
That is probably what happened. They did tell me that the flywheel was "blued" and had a number of cracks. The dealer recommended against cutting it. I figured since they were in there, may as well put in the new one. Same thought behind the RMS.
 
Old Mar 18, 2012 | 10:45 AM
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Have you considered switching to a light weight flywheel?

I did it and it really improves engine/throttle response.
 
Old Mar 18, 2012 | 02:19 PM
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Originally Posted by jurnes
Have you considered switching to a light weight flywheel?

I did it and it really improves engine/throttle response.

I did consider the switch but I have yet to track my car and I wasn't sure I needed any greater throttle response given I do have the Sports/Chrono.
 
Old Mar 18, 2012 | 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by lacrosse
That is probably what happened. They did tell me that the flywheel was "blued" and had a number of cracks. The dealer recommended against cutting it. I figured since they were in there, may as well put in the new one. Same thought behind the RMS.
Replacing your RMS at this point is not a smart move. Don't mess with a part that's working perfectly. It makes no sense! That seal could easily last another 70k miles if the car has been maintained well. Replacing it could introduce issues, and then you'll have to pay to yank the motor again to fix them. Leave it alone!!!!
 
Old Mar 19, 2012 | 04:57 AM
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Originally Posted by teflon_jones
Replacing your RMS at this point is not a smart move. Don't mess with a part that's working perfectly. It makes no sense! That seal could easily last another 70k miles if the car has been maintained well. Replacing it could introduce issues, and then you'll have to pay to yank the motor again to fix them. Leave it alone!!!!
This is like saying don't change your waterpump when you change a timing belt on any other car. The part wears over time/usage. Why not make the change when the labor is covered instead of paying the additional $1200 to do it again down the road.

I had mine done when my clutch was replaced and the total additional charge was $20 from an indy.
 
Old Apr 8, 2012 | 07:01 PM
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Any update here? Wondering if the OP had a failed pressure plate as the root cause of the issue.
 


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