2007 997 3.8 Cylinder Crack
#31
Not motormeiser is it?
#32
Machine shop rates are around $100/hr, up to $120 depending on where you are. So that's around a days work plus materials. The other thing is if you screw a job up on a subie it's not such an expensive mess as with a 997 core. There was a thread here about how expensive these engine cores are, or was it this thread? I can't remember. Anyhow perhaps the added cost is just the "cover your ***" cost of working on Pcars?
#33
I am considering the 3rd radiator as well and was wondering the same thing. I currently have my laser/radar pieces concealed in the stock black plastic piece in front of where the 3rd radiator would go. What did you end up doing?
#35
LN does great work and your not just paying $3800 for liners, they have done a great deal of R&D and got rebuilding the cylinders to a science. Now steel liners do not tend to work out because all you end up doing is boring out part of the aluminum cylinders and then press in a thin iron/steel liner and can possibly sink or due to expansion crack the block. I personally went with complete steel cylinders not liners so we punched out the entire aluminum cylinders an then replace with iron ductile cylinders that are seated into the block and supported at the deck as well with a semi closed deck but my build is for a custom built turbo application.
My engine is being built by Jason over at UFO Motorsports in LongBeach CA but I have done business with Don over at EBS and he is also a stand up guy that knows his stuff.
PM me if you need any of there contact numbers. Hopefully you can get back on the road in no time ...
My engine is being built by Jason over at UFO Motorsports in LongBeach CA but I have done business with Don over at EBS and he is also a stand up guy that knows his stuff.
PM me if you need any of there contact numbers. Hopefully you can get back on the road in no time ...
#36
LN does great work and your not just paying $3800 for liners, they have done a great deal of R&D and got rebuilding the cylinders to a science. Now steel liners do not tend to work out because all you end up doing is boring out part of the aluminum cylinders and then press in a thin iron/steel liner and can possibly sink or due to expansion crack the block. I personally went with complete steel cylinders not liners so we punched out the entire aluminum cylinders an then replace with iron ductile cylinders that are seated into the block and supported at the deck as well with a semi closed deck but my build is for a custom built turbo application.
My engine is being built by Jason over at UFO Motorsports in LongBeach CA but I have done business with Don over at EBS and he is also a stand up guy that knows his stuff.
PM me if you need any of there contact numbers. Hopefully you can get back on the road in no time ...
My engine is being built by Jason over at UFO Motorsports in LongBeach CA but I have done business with Don over at EBS and he is also a stand up guy that knows his stuff.
PM me if you need any of there contact numbers. Hopefully you can get back on the road in no time ...
This is how I recently did V6 sleeves for an open deck motor. I designed the sleeves and had them manufactured.
open deck stock block
I have 2 spare Porsche case halves laying around; one from a 2001 Carrera 3.6 and other from a 2007 Carrera S 3.8. If I have time in the near future I might do some machining and try sleeving them.
#37
... here's what I found. It's 70 plus pages but worth the read....
http://www.hartech.org/docs/buyers%20guide%20web%20format%20Jan%202012%20part% 205.pdf
http://www.hartech.org/docs/buyers%20guide%20web%20format%20Jan%202012%20part% 205.pdf
Kit
San Diego, CA, USA
#38
Hey all - revising a 7 year old thread here...
I have a 2007 4S cabrio with 48k miles on it. Had a an incident where all the coolant leaked out - I filled it and drove home - never seemed to overheat. Replaced water pump and overflow tank. Now I've been loosing a lot of coolant, but no external signs of a coolant leak - nothing on the garage floor, no white sweet smoke, etc. Only coolant-smelling foam in the oil fill tube. And the lab confirms I have coolant in the oil - but it looks fine, not chocolate milk or anything. Car runs fine, but I'm pretty sure I have either a D-chunk issue (the plastic parts of the old water pump broke off and blocked the coolant lines) or some crack - head, or head gasket, or cylinder. It's at the indie shop now, engine out. No leaks seen outside.
I'm getting ready for them to tell me my cylinder is cracked or badly scored. I'd rather bore it out or replace the sleeves for a few grand than go with a $20k new engine. Indie mechanic advises against repairing the head (if it's that) - we haven't discussed cylinder.
Now, 7 years later - How has your luck been with the repairs and new sleeves and such? Is there an update in techniques or where to go for this?
Thanks!
I have a 2007 4S cabrio with 48k miles on it. Had a an incident where all the coolant leaked out - I filled it and drove home - never seemed to overheat. Replaced water pump and overflow tank. Now I've been loosing a lot of coolant, but no external signs of a coolant leak - nothing on the garage floor, no white sweet smoke, etc. Only coolant-smelling foam in the oil fill tube. And the lab confirms I have coolant in the oil - but it looks fine, not chocolate milk or anything. Car runs fine, but I'm pretty sure I have either a D-chunk issue (the plastic parts of the old water pump broke off and blocked the coolant lines) or some crack - head, or head gasket, or cylinder. It's at the indie shop now, engine out. No leaks seen outside.
I'm getting ready for them to tell me my cylinder is cracked or badly scored. I'd rather bore it out or replace the sleeves for a few grand than go with a $20k new engine. Indie mechanic advises against repairing the head (if it's that) - we haven't discussed cylinder.
Now, 7 years later - How has your luck been with the repairs and new sleeves and such? Is there an update in techniques or where to go for this?
Thanks!
#40
What ended up being the resolution on your car if you don’t mind me asking? I have an 07C2s cab. Did they find the issue?
Hey all - revising a 7 year old thread here...
I have a 2007 4S cabrio with 48k miles on it. Had a an incident where all the coolant leaked out - I filled it and drove home - never seemed to overheat. Replaced water pump and overflow tank. Now I've been loosing a lot of coolant, but no external signs of a coolant leak - nothing on the garage floor, no white sweet smoke, etc. Only coolant-smelling foam in the oil fill tube. And the lab confirms I have coolant in the oil - but it looks fine, not chocolate milk or anything. Car runs fine, but I'm pretty sure I have either a D-chunk issue (the plastic parts of the old water pump broke off and blocked the coolant lines) or some crack - head, or head gasket, or cylinder. It's at the indie shop now, engine out. No leaks seen outside.
I'm getting ready for them to tell me my cylinder is cracked or badly scored. I'd rather bore it out or replace the sleeves for a few grand than go with a $20k new engine. Indie mechanic advises against repairing the head (if it's that) - we haven't discussed cylinder.
Now, 7 years later - How has your luck been with the repairs and new sleeves and such? Is there an update in techniques or where to go for this?
Thanks!
I have a 2007 4S cabrio with 48k miles on it. Had a an incident where all the coolant leaked out - I filled it and drove home - never seemed to overheat. Replaced water pump and overflow tank. Now I've been loosing a lot of coolant, but no external signs of a coolant leak - nothing on the garage floor, no white sweet smoke, etc. Only coolant-smelling foam in the oil fill tube. And the lab confirms I have coolant in the oil - but it looks fine, not chocolate milk or anything. Car runs fine, but I'm pretty sure I have either a D-chunk issue (the plastic parts of the old water pump broke off and blocked the coolant lines) or some crack - head, or head gasket, or cylinder. It's at the indie shop now, engine out. No leaks seen outside.
I'm getting ready for them to tell me my cylinder is cracked or badly scored. I'd rather bore it out or replace the sleeves for a few grand than go with a $20k new engine. Indie mechanic advises against repairing the head (if it's that) - we haven't discussed cylinder.
Now, 7 years later - How has your luck been with the repairs and new sleeves and such? Is there an update in techniques or where to go for this?
Thanks!
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