Buying a new clutch @ 24k miles - NOT happy!
When I have had a clutch go out, the symptom typically is slipping in 1st gear. Usually you first notice it under heavy acceleration or up hill. Car revs up without the car increasing speed as typical, then the clutch grabs and you can keep on going. Over the course of some number of miles you slowly loose all ability for clutch to grab, so best to get in once you confirm that it is slipping and not poor clutch work...
For people with a 2005 with the old IMS, clutch change out is the time to install the upgraded IMS part...
For people with a 2005 with the old IMS, clutch change out is the time to install the upgraded IMS part...
Similar story.
Bought 08 997.1 S with 33K miles not CPO.
The indy inspection told me RMS seal was leaking oil and car still had some warranty (thanks House Auto in Pasadena, CA!).
I took it to dealer for list of warranty repairs.
Dealer called and said tranny was out and clutch looked like it would go out in 5-7K miles.
But it would only be $1K since the other repair was covering most of the labor.
Clutch pedal feels much easier now and hope I'm getting a fresh start.
Bought 08 997.1 S with 33K miles not CPO.
The indy inspection told me RMS seal was leaking oil and car still had some warranty (thanks House Auto in Pasadena, CA!).
I took it to dealer for list of warranty repairs.
Dealer called and said tranny was out and clutch looked like it would go out in 5-7K miles.
But it would only be $1K since the other repair was covering most of the labor.
Clutch pedal feels much easier now and hope I'm getting a fresh start.
Since you are going to eat the bill on parts and labor, might be a good time to consider going aftermarket for the clutch assembly and a lightweight flywheel. It only costs a few bucks more to go first class.
I asked the dealer to check it out at the last service (1,500 miles ago) and they said, yep, feels week.
Not sure if it all happens this way, but my pedal suddenly got very light. Not a progressive thing, but sort of overnight - and it was hard to feel the engagement at all - although it was drivable.
Final straw was accelerating in 6th on the freeway, with the clutch fully "engaged" the revs went way up. Then it was obviously done (and probably when the flywheel was scored).
I recently had my clutch go out.
Turned out to be a failed Slave cylinder and a broken pressure plate. The tech could not tell which of the items caused the failure of the other.
I am 48 k miles and i got a new clutch under warranty.
Turned out to be a failed Slave cylinder and a broken pressure plate. The tech could not tell which of the items caused the failure of the other.
I am 48 k miles and i got a new clutch under warranty.
I had a similar experience with my 997.1 S. I bought private, out of warranty and got a good deal but knew there was risks not knowing how the PO drove the car. I bought at 24K, and was at the dealer at 25K getting a new clutch. It is unusual but it happens. Do you have any issues getting into 1st from a standstill?
In my case it's worse when cold and I believe is more of a linkage thing. In any case, when it happens I select 2nd and then it's usually fine to go into 1st. It didn't help the situation when I installed the factory SSK, but it's a great mod.
Had a similar experience not to long ago. My car is a 2006, CPO with 29K when I bought it. Had the clutch go at ~ 70k (as described a very light pedal) when shifting into first.
Dealer replaced the clutch, flywheel (could have resurfaced but was advised against it due to "blueing" of the flywheel) and the RMS (since they were there). Total was around $5,500.
I have an additional 7,000 miles on the new clutch with no issues.
Dealer replaced the clutch, flywheel (could have resurfaced but was advised against it due to "blueing" of the flywheel) and the RMS (since they were there). Total was around $5,500.
I have an additional 7,000 miles on the new clutch with no issues.
Yes, I was going to say, clutch replacement costing in the $2K-$3K range is pretty cheap. I can understand the unhappiness, but that is a bargain price. Forty years ago replacing a clutch cost about $600, back when it was pretty tough for me to get that kind of money.
Thanks for the responses everyone.
Yep, at the end of it all, I'm out around $3k, have a new clutch and a resurfaced flywheel, and the peace of mind that I'm all set for a boatload more miles with a great car.
Lesson learned that not all potential big repairs are covered by the cpo warranty.
Probably best not to denominate this repair in bottles of good wine and just chalk it up to the cost of ownership.
Speaking of which, hopefully those new pilot sports are still on sale!
Yep, at the end of it all, I'm out around $3k, have a new clutch and a resurfaced flywheel, and the peace of mind that I'm all set for a boatload more miles with a great car.
Lesson learned that not all potential big repairs are covered by the cpo warranty.
Probably best not to denominate this repair in bottles of good wine and just chalk it up to the cost of ownership.
Speaking of which, hopefully those new pilot sports are still on sale!
To answer the previous question about how do you know? For me, I had issues getting into 1st before the replacement, and it was slowly getting more common. On the way home from work one day I started the car, and when pushing the clutch in it felt like total mush. It happened to be labor day and no indy's were open so immediately went to the dealer as I didnt have a 2nd vehicle at the time. Ended up being ~2700 for clutch, RMS, and resurface flywheel. Seems to be reasonable as I received a quote from an indy later at 1900 for just the clutch.
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SharkyShark20
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Sep 19, 2015 09:54 PM







