Good to hear from someone local regarding the winter driving capability. So your current p car is RWD and you think that would be OK as well? I couldnt tell from your comment below, it sounds like you are saying awd is required, but given the context I'm thinking you meant it is not required. I am leaning towards the c4s, but if a c2s came around that had a price too good to resist, maybe it would be worth considering if it could handle the winter.

Are you aware of any material differences between the c2s and c4s that should be considered?

I have been watching a lot of spots for cars, but it wouldnt hurt to have someone who is plugged in to the pipeline to source a car as well. What is the dealer/is he local?

Thanks for the help.

 

the tip was a very well received, well reviewed auto tranny when it first arrived.

However when compared to a PDK it doesn't have much legs to stand on. The PDK outclasses it easily.

The tip is reliable. If you go the tip route you should get a great deal on it or pass it up.

good luck

 

I d have to agree that you get what you pay for. Would you consider a Ferrari a Fiat?

 

I did considered a vette but since I'll spend 90% of my time inside, I couldn't deal with all that plastic.

 

Sorry for the typo. I meant to say "NOT necessary". I will PM you the dealer info.

 

Thank you. That definitely widens my options.

 

I thought only a woman could legally buy a TIP or PDK...

 

Take the stack of cash you are willing to spend and buy one. I think they are bargains -06 C2

 

I can't speak to the winter driving prowess of the 'Vette, but I can comment with confidence on that of the 997. Having come out of a long list of Audi Quattros and BMW X-Drives, I was apprehensive about what a Northeastern winter would be like in my newly acquired C2. My fears were unfounded - the C2 is am eminently capable winter driver as long as two conditions are met:
1) You know what you are doing.
2) You ave a set of proper, dedicated winter tires for the car.

I have had Dunlop Winter Sports on my last three cars and put them on my p-car as well. Through the recent blizzard here (29.2 inches of snow) I had no trouble whatsoever. Ground clearance is the only limitation, but traction is not. Braking distance is like that of any other car in snow.

Hope this helps!

Pete

 

"Glorified Volkswagen" was just an old term for 911's from eons ago. I don't think he meant anything bad. We (old Farts) don't take offense to the term.

 

I have now test driven two 997 CS's.

The first one had a base interior, the second had some sort of leather option. The base interior was not superior to my Vette in any way. In fact, it appeared to be far worse than its age and mileage would justify.

The all-leather interior on the second car was beautiful, immaculate, almost too nice for a DD. It was superior to the Vette in every way. But I don't see how that leather dash could possibly stay nice very long in Texas summers.

More importantly, I've found a 2006 base model 997 with 27k miles for $35,000. But it has a rebuilt title. I've read the Carfax. The car was stolen, and the insurance company totaled it out. Hence the problem title. The story the seller is telling me appears to check out. He claims no damage at all to the car, but I haven't seen the car in person. I really like the low mileage and stated mint condition, but the price seems high for a base model 911 that has virtually no trade in value and that will be nearly impossible to resell privately. Seller says he's firm on the price. (I will pay cash so getting financing on a rebuilt title would not be an issue.)

Is that a bargain or a deal I should run from?

The "dealer" is not a member of the BBB. Apparently, from reading reviews he had an "F" rating with the BBB before withdrawing his membership. But in the era of the internets the BBB has lost much of its reason for being. It never was a very good indicator. The seller's reviews are mostly good. Only a couple bad reviews from people who appear to be difficult customers.

 

I say no on the base 911 for $35K with a bad title.... You ll get killed when you have to get out. I d wonder what was damaged when it was stolen... unless you can get the documents from when it was recovered, that could be very telling. I have seen them with just broken widows and ignition locks to wrecked and fixed. That s a large difference. If you can t be 100%, then I d pass.

 

well said. decent price with a good title but i would never buy a car with bad title unless you intend on keeping it forever or giving it away. I counter at $18k

 

I don't think the seller is being straight with you regarding the car having no damage and that insurance company totaled the car just because it was stolen. Check out this thread where a guy is trying to get his insurance company to total his car that was T-boned while it was stolen. The bottom line is they may not total it unless it has damage to the frame.

https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...t-key-car.html

 

get the report from the tow company who recovered it....