New Clutch needed, OEM or something else?
New Clutch needed, OEM or something else?
I have just under 50,000 and I believe it's time for a new clutch. Its harder to put the car into gear and twice yesterday on the highway under acceleration the tach revved without the corresponding power going to the wheels.
I searched the threads and did not see any threads discussing the clutch options or corresponding service.
Thanks,
Don
- Any opinions on OEM or an aftermarket clutch kit? I participate in DE's and auto-crosses five or six times a year.
- Any opinions on what else to have done while the clutch kit is being redone? Its nice on the 997 we don't have to drop the engine to do the clutch.
I searched the threads and did not see any threads discussing the clutch options or corresponding service.
Thanks,
Don
I just had mine replaced with OEM from a good indy shop in the area (73k miles). They ended up doing the spark plugs and belt while it was out. They also did a weird shifter guide tube. It wasnt cheap (for me at least) and an aftermarket one would have been even more.
From the time I first noticed the slip to when it was almost undrivable with the sticking clutch pedal and such was only about 4 days of very minimal driving.
From the time I first noticed the slip to when it was almost undrivable with the sticking clutch pedal and such was only about 4 days of very minimal driving.
That is interesting on the shifter guide lube. Can you look at your invoice and see what they called it?
Your comment regarding it going out quickly is helpful, because I don't want to get stranded. I had noticed for a while that it was hard to get into first gear. I am assuming that is solely due to the clutch.
I have a DE coming up in four weeks, so I want to get it repaired quickly so I will have time to drive it, make sure there are no issues and get used to feel of the new clutch.
Your comment regarding it going out quickly is helpful, because I don't want to get stranded. I had noticed for a while that it was hard to get into first gear. I am assuming that is solely due to the clutch.
I have a DE coming up in four weeks, so I want to get it repaired quickly so I will have time to drive it, make sure there are no issues and get used to feel of the new clutch.
From my thread about the work I had done it was a clutch brace and slide tube. I will get the invoice out tonight and see what the actual part says. My total clutch cost was $1900. Belt and Plugs added a few more bucks.
Was this including the flywheel?
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I liked them a lot. I have also heard good things about EuroTech in Framingham http://www.eurotechracecars.com/ From what I understand the guy who runs it used to work for EPE.
Since you're replacing your clutch, and the fact that you enjoy Auto-x and DE events, might I suggest you changing your flywheel to a LWFW as well. With a LWFW, you will need the SACH's sprung disk to minimize driveline shock. You will be amazed at how responsive your engine will be, as well as, how drivable it is. Rev-matching is a joy to do now. I currently have the AASCO LWFW + SACH's Sprung Disk combo and it has been very reliable thus far for the past 1000 miles.
I replaced my clutch with an OEM and the slave cylinder and piston needed to be changed at the same time. The tip of the piston was cracked.
There also was a very small amount of pooling at the RMS so I had RMS changed at the same time. Total Dealer service bill was $2,200.
I saw the 808C2S's comment on the flywheel and it was a good one. Fortunately, I did not have to change the flywheel. The dealer said it should be perfectly fine and no issues, but possibly some chatter. After the new clutch was installed and tested, there was installed no chatter.
I am glad that I had the RMS checked and changed. The dealer said it likely would not be an issue with what they saw, but I felt it would likely not get better over time, so best to get everything in good nick while I have it apart.
Thank you everyone!
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There also was a very small amount of pooling at the RMS so I had RMS changed at the same time. Total Dealer service bill was $2,200.
I saw the 808C2S's comment on the flywheel and it was a good one. Fortunately, I did not have to change the flywheel. The dealer said it should be perfectly fine and no issues, but possibly some chatter. After the new clutch was installed and tested, there was installed no chatter.
I am glad that I had the RMS checked and changed. The dealer said it likely would not be an issue with what they saw, but I felt it would likely not get better over time, so best to get everything in good nick while I have it apart.
Thank you everyone!
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I went to my Indy and they couldn't get me in for two weeks, so I called two dealers one was the same price as the Indy and the other was $900 more. The dealer got me in right away so I can enjoy my car over the long holiday weekend.
I called my Indy back as a courtesy to let him know I got it done and he seemed annoyed. Heck he was backed up two weeks, so it isn't like he was hurting for business. I was a little put off by it.
I called my Indy back as a courtesy to let him know I got it done and he seemed annoyed. Heck he was backed up two weeks, so it isn't like he was hurting for business. I was a little put off by it.
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