DIY Porsche 997 Key Shell Transplant
#1
DIY Porsche 997 Key Shell Transplant
These instruction explain how to transplant the functional components of the Porsche 997 key shell (or key fob) into another key shell. I purchased this 997.2 style key shell from eBay (see thread https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...ml#post3929185).
(Please note, if you have a 997.1 style grey and black key shell, you will likely end up destroying the original key shell to remove the transponder in step 5, below, so proceed at your own risk).
(Please note, if you have a 997.1 style grey and black key shell, you will likely end up destroying the original key shell to remove the transponder in step 5, below, so proceed at your own risk).
Last edited by PSPorsche; 09-27-2013 at 12:45 PM.
#2
(1)
Open the key shell using your fingernail at the base of the key blade, on the button side of the key shell.
(2)
The new key shell will be missing the battery terminals, battery, transponder, and the circuit board with micro-switches. The key shells use a spring loaded locking mechanism to ensure the key blade does not pop out.
Open the key shell using your fingernail at the base of the key blade, on the button side of the key shell.
(2)
The new key shell will be missing the battery terminals, battery, transponder, and the circuit board with micro-switches. The key shells use a spring loaded locking mechanism to ensure the key blade does not pop out.
Last edited by PSPorsche; 09-27-2013 at 12:33 PM.
#3
(3)
Remove the key blade by sliding back the spring loaded lock mechanism using your fingernail. Simultaneously, use a thin small flat head screwdriver (like the kind you use to repair eye glasses) as a wedge to pry the key blade down and out. You'll be able to pull the key blade out with your fingers once you've gotten it out part way. Slightly turn the blade to the right, to clear the plastic lock mechanism, just before you pull it out all the way.
Remove the key blade by sliding back the spring loaded lock mechanism using your fingernail. Simultaneously, use a thin small flat head screwdriver (like the kind you use to repair eye glasses) as a wedge to pry the key blade down and out. You'll be able to pull the key blade out with your fingers once you've gotten it out part way. Slightly turn the blade to the right, to clear the plastic lock mechanism, just before you pull it out all the way.
Last edited by PSPorsche; 09-29-2013 at 04:24 PM.
#4
(4)
Next, remove the battery by prying it up using a small flat head screwdriver.
Once the battery is out, remove the battery terminals, because you will need to reuse them in the new key shell.
The negative battery terminal is secured on a little plastic "post" and is easy to remove by inserting your small flat head screwdriver under the post and prying up. Do the same on the other side of the post so you don't bend the metal tabs on the terminal.
The positive battery terminal seems to be a bit more challenging if you try pull it from the top. The metal is too delicate and can bend out of shape. Instead, insert a flat head screwdriver under the terminal from the front, and use that to push the terminal up and out of its slot.
Next, remove the battery by prying it up using a small flat head screwdriver.
Once the battery is out, remove the battery terminals, because you will need to reuse them in the new key shell.
The negative battery terminal is secured on a little plastic "post" and is easy to remove by inserting your small flat head screwdriver under the post and prying up. Do the same on the other side of the post so you don't bend the metal tabs on the terminal.
The positive battery terminal seems to be a bit more challenging if you try pull it from the top. The metal is too delicate and can bend out of shape. Instead, insert a flat head screwdriver under the terminal from the front, and use that to push the terminal up and out of its slot.
Last edited by PSPorsche; 09-27-2013 at 12:33 PM.
#5
(5)
Removing the transponder is the hardest part, because (on the 997.1) it is glued in. Note that your new key will not work without the transponder, so you must remove it, and you must be careful not to damage it. This step will probably result in you destroying your original key.
I used a utility blade knife (box cutter) to cut the plastic around the transponder. First I tried a hobby knife (exacto knife) but the blade was bending against the plastic and the glue, and there was a danger of the blade snapping and hurting me. You will need a strong blade for this job. Once I made cuts into the plastic on the left and right of the transponder, I used a pair of needle nosed pliers to bend the original plastic key shell. Then I had enough space to use the utility knife to score the glue and pry up the transponder. Porsche really made sure this little part is virtually impossible to remove! Once it's out, carefully trim a little excess plastic from the edge of the transponder, but be very careful NOT to damage the transponder.
Removing the transponder is the hardest part, because (on the 997.1) it is glued in. Note that your new key will not work without the transponder, so you must remove it, and you must be careful not to damage it. This step will probably result in you destroying your original key.
I used a utility blade knife (box cutter) to cut the plastic around the transponder. First I tried a hobby knife (exacto knife) but the blade was bending against the plastic and the glue, and there was a danger of the blade snapping and hurting me. You will need a strong blade for this job. Once I made cuts into the plastic on the left and right of the transponder, I used a pair of needle nosed pliers to bend the original plastic key shell. Then I had enough space to use the utility knife to score the glue and pry up the transponder. Porsche really made sure this little part is virtually impossible to remove! Once it's out, carefully trim a little excess plastic from the edge of the transponder, but be very careful NOT to damage the transponder.
Last edited by PSPorsche; 09-27-2013 at 12:33 PM.
#6
(6)
Now that you have all of the parts, begin to assemble the new key shell.
(6a) Key Blade
Insert the original key blade into the new key shell, reversing the same motion you used to extract it. The blade needs to be inserted slightly from the right side and straightened once the notched metal part is inside the plastic slot. Note that the spring lock mechanism will automatically move back and engage as you insert the key blade, so you don't need to pull the lock back with your finger. Once it is in as far as you can push it, you can hold the key and gently press the blade down onto your desk to ensure it is in all the way.
(6b) Battery Terminals
Now, replace the battery terminals. These may be a little loose in the new key shell, so I used a pair of needle nose pliers to re-flatten the tabs, on the negative terminal, that "bite" into the plastic post. I also bent the vertical tabs on both terminals a little more, so they fit more snugly into their respective slots.
(6c) Transponder
Do not forget to place the original transponder into the plastic receptacle in the new key shell. The transponder is needed for your car to start. You will notice that the curved side of the transponder should face down and towards the key blade. The flat edge of the transponder will be at the top. There is no need to apply any glue.
(6d) Battery
Insert the original battery into the new key shell. The flat (positive) terminal should face up.
(6e) Circuit Board
Place the new rubber part into the key shell face plate (the side with buttons). Then take the original circuit board and fit that into the rubber part.
Now that you have all of the parts, begin to assemble the new key shell.
(6a) Key Blade
Insert the original key blade into the new key shell, reversing the same motion you used to extract it. The blade needs to be inserted slightly from the right side and straightened once the notched metal part is inside the plastic slot. Note that the spring lock mechanism will automatically move back and engage as you insert the key blade, so you don't need to pull the lock back with your finger. Once it is in as far as you can push it, you can hold the key and gently press the blade down onto your desk to ensure it is in all the way.
(6b) Battery Terminals
Now, replace the battery terminals. These may be a little loose in the new key shell, so I used a pair of needle nose pliers to re-flatten the tabs, on the negative terminal, that "bite" into the plastic post. I also bent the vertical tabs on both terminals a little more, so they fit more snugly into their respective slots.
(6c) Transponder
Do not forget to place the original transponder into the plastic receptacle in the new key shell. The transponder is needed for your car to start. You will notice that the curved side of the transponder should face down and towards the key blade. The flat edge of the transponder will be at the top. There is no need to apply any glue.
(6d) Battery
Insert the original battery into the new key shell. The flat (positive) terminal should face up.
(6e) Circuit Board
Place the new rubber part into the key shell face plate (the side with buttons). Then take the original circuit board and fit that into the rubber part.
Last edited by PSPorsche; 09-29-2013 at 04:29 PM.
#7
(7)
Close the key shell case. I found it was easier to align the faceplate beginning at the base of the key blade. Then, holding the two halves between my fingers, I used a small screwdriver to make sure the rubber part was not obstructing the two halves, before I firmly pressed the key shell closed. It will snap together easily.
I also want to comment to the three button key shell... I accidentally ordered this part instead of the available two button key shell. The three button key shell is for convertibles, while the two button key shell is for coupes. I decided to go ahead and try out the three button version for my coupe, instead of bothering with returning the part and waiting for a replacement.
I was suprised that third button is not lose and does not "rattle" in the key shell, even thought there is no micro switch mechanism below it. So overall, it does not detract from the quality of the key shell. Now that I look at it, I actually like the nice bit of extra detail of the third button, compared to the "blank molded plastic" area on my original two button key shell. So I am not disappointed that this button is non functional. Regarding "authenticity," I figure I already violated that by using a 997.2 style key shell for my 997.1 car. So, what's an extra button? :-P
The Porsche emblem on the key shell has a clear protective plastic on it. You can peal this off using a toothpick. Once I had worked the corner off, and tried to pull the plastic off with my fingers, it pulled up the Porsche crest with it! If this happens, don't worry. The crest has some sticky adhesive on the back, so you can simply press it back into place.
Here's a tip: To make your "new" key shiny, use a pencil eraser to rub away the tarnish on the key blade, especially inside the machined grooves.
Close the key shell case. I found it was easier to align the faceplate beginning at the base of the key blade. Then, holding the two halves between my fingers, I used a small screwdriver to make sure the rubber part was not obstructing the two halves, before I firmly pressed the key shell closed. It will snap together easily.
I also want to comment to the three button key shell... I accidentally ordered this part instead of the available two button key shell. The three button key shell is for convertibles, while the two button key shell is for coupes. I decided to go ahead and try out the three button version for my coupe, instead of bothering with returning the part and waiting for a replacement.
I was suprised that third button is not lose and does not "rattle" in the key shell, even thought there is no micro switch mechanism below it. So overall, it does not detract from the quality of the key shell. Now that I look at it, I actually like the nice bit of extra detail of the third button, compared to the "blank molded plastic" area on my original two button key shell. So I am not disappointed that this button is non functional. Regarding "authenticity," I figure I already violated that by using a 997.2 style key shell for my 997.1 car. So, what's an extra button? :-P
The Porsche emblem on the key shell has a clear protective plastic on it. You can peal this off using a toothpick. Once I had worked the corner off, and tried to pull the plastic off with my fingers, it pulled up the Porsche crest with it! If this happens, don't worry. The crest has some sticky adhesive on the back, so you can simply press it back into place.
Here's a tip: To make your "new" key shiny, use a pencil eraser to rub away the tarnish on the key blade, especially inside the machined grooves.
Last edited by PSPorsche; 09-01-2014 at 08:55 PM.
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#8
(8) Quality
Finally, I wanted to talk a little about the quality of the replacement key shell. I purchased this replacement key shell from eBay (see thread https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...ml#post3929185). The overall quality of the item is good and it feels solid and heavy. The plastic material used is also good quality. I think you would be hard pressed to distinguish this from the OEM version. I do notice a *very* slight gap in some areas along the edge at the seam where the two halves meet. I do not have an OEM key shell for comparison, but I am willing the bet the OEM part also exhibits slight unevenness where the two halves meet. The chromed metal part (where key ring would go) is formed reasonably well. I was a little surprised that the Porsche emblem came off so quickly, but that was easily remedied. For the price, this key shell is definitely a worthwhile "upgrade."
Here's a tip: To make your "new" key shiny, use a pencil eraser to rub away the tarnish on the key blade, especially inside the machined grooves.
Finally, I wanted to talk a little about the quality of the replacement key shell. I purchased this replacement key shell from eBay (see thread https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...ml#post3929185). The overall quality of the item is good and it feels solid and heavy. The plastic material used is also good quality. I think you would be hard pressed to distinguish this from the OEM version. I do notice a *very* slight gap in some areas along the edge at the seam where the two halves meet. I do not have an OEM key shell for comparison, but I am willing the bet the OEM part also exhibits slight unevenness where the two halves meet. The chromed metal part (where key ring would go) is formed reasonably well. I was a little surprised that the Porsche emblem came off so quickly, but that was easily remedied. For the price, this key shell is definitely a worthwhile "upgrade."
Here's a tip: To make your "new" key shiny, use a pencil eraser to rub away the tarnish on the key blade, especially inside the machined grooves.
Last edited by PSPorsche; 09-27-2013 at 12:51 PM.
#10
what are the differences?
#11
I don't recall if its on the original keys, but there is certainly a small amount of grease in the key grooves... if thats part of the key (and not transfered there from the lock) then after cleaning the key blade, it would be wise to put a thin film of what I assume is lithium grease, back in the slot and wipe the key blade down.
#12
(6)
Now that you have all of the parts, begin to assemble the new key shell.
(6a) Key Blade
Insert the original key blade into the new key shell, reversing the same motion you used to extract it. The blade needs to be inserted slightly from the right side and straightened once the notched metal part is inside the plastic slot. Note that the spring lock mechanism will automatically move back and engage as you insert the key blade, so you don't need to pull the lock back with your finger. Once it is in as far as you can push it, you can hold the key and gently press the blade down onto your desk to ensure it is in all the way.
(6b) Battery Terminals
Now, replace the battery terminals. These may be a little lose in the new key shell, so I used a pair of needle nose pliers to re-flatten the tabs, on the negative terminal, that "bite" into the plastic post. I also bent the vertical tabs on both terminals a little more, so they fit more snugly into their respective slots.
(6c) Transponder
Do not forget to place the original transponder into the plastic receptacle in the new key shell. The transponder is needed for your car to start. You will notice that the curved side of the transponder should face down and towards the key blade. The flat edge of the transponder will be at the top. There is no need to apply any glue.
(6d) Battery
Insert the original battery into the new key shell. The flat (positive) terminal should face up.
(6e) Circuit Board
Place the new rubber part into the key shell face plate (the one side with buttons). Then take the original circuit board and insert place that into the rubber part.
Now that you have all of the parts, begin to assemble the new key shell.
(6a) Key Blade
Insert the original key blade into the new key shell, reversing the same motion you used to extract it. The blade needs to be inserted slightly from the right side and straightened once the notched metal part is inside the plastic slot. Note that the spring lock mechanism will automatically move back and engage as you insert the key blade, so you don't need to pull the lock back with your finger. Once it is in as far as you can push it, you can hold the key and gently press the blade down onto your desk to ensure it is in all the way.
(6b) Battery Terminals
Now, replace the battery terminals. These may be a little lose in the new key shell, so I used a pair of needle nose pliers to re-flatten the tabs, on the negative terminal, that "bite" into the plastic post. I also bent the vertical tabs on both terminals a little more, so they fit more snugly into their respective slots.
(6c) Transponder
Do not forget to place the original transponder into the plastic receptacle in the new key shell. The transponder is needed for your car to start. You will notice that the curved side of the transponder should face down and towards the key blade. The flat edge of the transponder will be at the top. There is no need to apply any glue.
(6d) Battery
Insert the original battery into the new key shell. The flat (positive) terminal should face up.
(6e) Circuit Board
Place the new rubber part into the key shell face plate (the one side with buttons). Then take the original circuit board and insert place that into the rubber part.
#13
+ 1000000.
step 5 - a few drops of 'goo gone' or 'goof off' + 10-15 mins of waiting + hair dryer at full heat would help soften the glue holding the transponder
great writeup.
step 5 - a few drops of 'goo gone' or 'goof off' + 10-15 mins of waiting + hair dryer at full heat would help soften the glue holding the transponder
great writeup.
Last edited by myw; 09-27-2013 at 02:32 PM.
#15
Note to self, disassemble on a uniform colored surface, preferably not the same color as the spring, lol.