997.2 Smog Nightmare and Issues - help appreciated
#17
I doubt the emissions warranty will cover modified components.
#18
Bumping this old thread, I've got the exact same issue for months and can't pass smog
The smog test is all green besides an "EGR and/or VVT not ready" status. Car is an 09 997.2 with PSE, center bypass, and EVOMSit ECU.
There was an issue with the PSE vacuum _exactly_ as described by this guy with a P1094 code thrown http://rennlist.com/forums/997-forum...078-b2aaa.html
The vacuum leak was fixed, and everything checks out according to my mechanic, though I still have P1094 listed as "permanent code", but no confirmed / pending code when running the smog test, so I'm assuming this code is just remnant and should not interfere, or does permanent code need to be cleared too??
My mechanic thinks at this point it's just a matter of driving car long enough after fixing the vacuum. I've tried to do the proper drive cycle 4 times to no avail. He strongly believes it's an issue with the CATs not getting hot enough for the status to become ready, and next step would be to add heat wrap to them. I trust him but I havent seen any mention of heat wrapping to pass smog in forums.
I've had other opinions, ranging from:
- ECU problem, there is no EGR on car, you need to flash it back to stock. I'm surprised because EVOMSit is most common (those guys give awesome support btw).
- O2 sensor is not working well (but it's been checked, though not replaced)
- Mass air flow sensor problem or intake has leak (but it's been checked too)
- Someone told me if the Leak Detection Module is faulty it could throw a wrench in cycle
vg247, were you following any specific pattern to eventually get your car to go green, e.g. stay under 3000rpm and 60mph for hours??
Thanks folks, I'm going nuts with this.
The smog test is all green besides an "EGR and/or VVT not ready" status. Car is an 09 997.2 with PSE, center bypass, and EVOMSit ECU.
There was an issue with the PSE vacuum _exactly_ as described by this guy with a P1094 code thrown http://rennlist.com/forums/997-forum...078-b2aaa.html
The vacuum leak was fixed, and everything checks out according to my mechanic, though I still have P1094 listed as "permanent code", but no confirmed / pending code when running the smog test, so I'm assuming this code is just remnant and should not interfere, or does permanent code need to be cleared too??
My mechanic thinks at this point it's just a matter of driving car long enough after fixing the vacuum. I've tried to do the proper drive cycle 4 times to no avail. He strongly believes it's an issue with the CATs not getting hot enough for the status to become ready, and next step would be to add heat wrap to them. I trust him but I havent seen any mention of heat wrapping to pass smog in forums.
I've had other opinions, ranging from:
- ECU problem, there is no EGR on car, you need to flash it back to stock. I'm surprised because EVOMSit is most common (those guys give awesome support btw).
- O2 sensor is not working well (but it's been checked, though not replaced)
- Mass air flow sensor problem or intake has leak (but it's been checked too)
- Someone told me if the Leak Detection Module is faulty it could throw a wrench in cycle
vg247, were you following any specific pattern to eventually get your car to go green, e.g. stay under 3000rpm and 60mph for hours??
Thanks folks, I'm going nuts with this.
I can't believe all the trouble owners are having getting the readiness monitors to complete. Maybe the mod's affect the procedure?
One mistake that owners make is to believe the car needs to be subjected to an "Italian tuneup" drive cycle. This won't work as if the acceleration is too hard the DME suspends monitoring the converter performance which interrupts the readiness monitor test progress.
I don't believe keeping the engine under 3K is necessary either but I have no experience with the newer cars. But both my 2002 Boxster and my 2003 Turbo can have an error code erased to extinguish the CEL and after a 30 mile drive to the office - a mix of surface street driving, freeway driving, ending with some surface street driving -- have all the readiness monitors set to complete.
#19
Permanent code is a code that can only be cleared by the DME after so many warm up cycles with the triggering problem no longer present.
I can't believe all the trouble owners are having getting the readiness monitors to complete. Maybe the mod's affect the procedure?
One mistake that owners make is to believe the car needs to be subjected to an "Italian tuneup" drive cycle. This won't work as if the acceleration is too hard the DME suspends monitoring the converter performance which interrupts the readiness monitor test progress.
I don't believe keeping the engine under 3K is necessary either but I have no experience with the newer cars. But both my 2002 Boxster and my 2003 Turbo can have an error code erased to extinguish the CEL and after a 30 mile drive to the office - a mix of surface street driving, freeway driving, ending with some surface street driving -- have all the readiness monitors set to complete.
I can't believe all the trouble owners are having getting the readiness monitors to complete. Maybe the mod's affect the procedure?
One mistake that owners make is to believe the car needs to be subjected to an "Italian tuneup" drive cycle. This won't work as if the acceleration is too hard the DME suspends monitoring the converter performance which interrupts the readiness monitor test progress.
I don't believe keeping the engine under 3K is necessary either but I have no experience with the newer cars. But both my 2002 Boxster and my 2003 Turbo can have an error code erased to extinguish the CEL and after a 30 mile drive to the office - a mix of surface street driving, freeway driving, ending with some surface street driving -- have all the readiness monitors set to complete.
#20
California Emission Warranty is 7/70. PZEV vehicles are warranted for 15/150.
#21
Bumping this old thread, I've got the exact same issue for months and can't pass smog
The smog test is all green besides an "EGR and/or VVT not ready" status. Car is an 09 997.2 with PSE, center bypass, and EVOMSit ECU.
There was an issue with the PSE vacuum _exactly_ as described by this guy with a P1094 code thrown http://rennlist.com/forums/997-forum...078-b2aaa.html
The vacuum leak was fixed, and everything checks out according to my mechanic, though I still have P1094 listed as "permanent code", but no confirmed / pending code when running the smog test, so I'm assuming this code is just remnant and should not interfere, or does permanent code need to be cleared too??
My mechanic thinks at this point it's just a matter of driving car long enough after fixing the vacuum. I've tried to do the proper drive cycle 4 times to no avail. He strongly believes it's an issue with the CATs not getting hot enough for the status to become ready, and next step would be to add heat wrap to them. I trust him but I havent seen any mention of heat wrapping to pass smog in forums.
I've had other opinions, ranging from:
- ECU problem, there is no EGR on car, you need to flash it back to stock. I'm surprised because EVOMSit is most common (those guys give awesome support btw).
- O2 sensor is not working well (but it's been checked, though not replaced)
- Mass air flow sensor problem or intake has leak (but it's been checked too)
- Someone told me if the Leak Detection Module is faulty it could throw a wrench in cycle
vg247, were you following any specific pattern to eventually get your car to go green, e.g. stay under 3000rpm and 60mph for hours??
Thanks folks, I'm going nuts with this.
The smog test is all green besides an "EGR and/or VVT not ready" status. Car is an 09 997.2 with PSE, center bypass, and EVOMSit ECU.
There was an issue with the PSE vacuum _exactly_ as described by this guy with a P1094 code thrown http://rennlist.com/forums/997-forum...078-b2aaa.html
The vacuum leak was fixed, and everything checks out according to my mechanic, though I still have P1094 listed as "permanent code", but no confirmed / pending code when running the smog test, so I'm assuming this code is just remnant and should not interfere, or does permanent code need to be cleared too??
My mechanic thinks at this point it's just a matter of driving car long enough after fixing the vacuum. I've tried to do the proper drive cycle 4 times to no avail. He strongly believes it's an issue with the CATs not getting hot enough for the status to become ready, and next step would be to add heat wrap to them. I trust him but I havent seen any mention of heat wrapping to pass smog in forums.
I've had other opinions, ranging from:
- ECU problem, there is no EGR on car, you need to flash it back to stock. I'm surprised because EVOMSit is most common (those guys give awesome support btw).
- O2 sensor is not working well (but it's been checked, though not replaced)
- Mass air flow sensor problem or intake has leak (but it's been checked too)
- Someone told me if the Leak Detection Module is faulty it could throw a wrench in cycle
vg247, were you following any specific pattern to eventually get your car to go green, e.g. stay under 3000rpm and 60mph for hours??
Thanks folks, I'm going nuts with this.
#22
Catalyst not calibrated
I know this is old, but I could really use your help. My car was at Porsche Marin for 6 week (that’s crazy) and then I drove 1000 miles in a weekend and still can’t pass. Any suggestions or help finding a place that can be of more help in the Bay Area would be greatly appreciated.
#23
I know this is old, but I could really use your help. My car was at Porsche Marin for 6 week (that’s crazy) and then I drove 1000 miles in a weekend and still can’t pass. Any suggestions or help finding a place that can be of more help in the Bay Area would be greatly appreciated.
#24
i believe all the machines are the same, they can lose their smog license for tinkering to ,make it pass, U may have a O2sensor bad, my last POR a mouse had eaten the wiring going to sensor..
#25
I know this is old, but I could really use your help. My car was at Porsche Marin for 6 week (that’s crazy) and then I drove 1000 miles in a weekend and still can’t pass. Any suggestions or help finding a place that can be of more help in the Bay Area would be greatly appreciated.
In the end the ECU flashing gave me nothing but huge trouble. Over $1200 for the flashing, gave very little performance change, then thousands spent and lots of time burnt trying to figure out issue. Oh I forgot to mention that you have to ship your ECU to them, which blocks your car for days... then when receiving it, wouldn't work, car was down for more days... and if ECU ever gets lost or damaged on the way, it's apparently extremely expensive (I've heard up to $5000) to get original back from Porsche. Most of the time and money wasted was because EvoMS ABSOLUTELY DENIED my issue could be due to flash, so I was sent on wild goose chase. After all this, EvoMS still refused to give me my money back. This is *not* a good business.
#26
Readout
Tony,
i think you might have the solution. I bought the car with a crazy header and exhaust and had it all taken off to put on stock because I live in the city with very close neighbors in San Francisco. I was hoping to avoid having smog problems as well. I will have the ECU reset and hopefully it works!
When I go to any star certified smog shop I pass everything except it says catalyst not ready/ won’t calibrate. They told me to drive and do drive cycles to get it to calibrate but that isn’t going to be the solution as I’ve done all I can regarding that.
i think you might have the solution. I bought the car with a crazy header and exhaust and had it all taken off to put on stock because I live in the city with very close neighbors in San Francisco. I was hoping to avoid having smog problems as well. I will have the ECU reset and hopefully it works!
When I go to any star certified smog shop I pass everything except it says catalyst not ready/ won’t calibrate. They told me to drive and do drive cycles to get it to calibrate but that isn’t going to be the solution as I’ve done all I can regarding that.
Last edited by Kyle Urbs; 09-12-2019 at 05:34 PM.
#27
Tony,
i think you might have the solution. I bought the car with a crazy header and exhaust and had it all taken off to put on stock because I live in the city with very close neighbors in San Francisco. I was hoping to avoid having smog problems as well. I will have the ECU reset and hopefully it works!
When I go to any star certified smog shop I pass everything except it says catalyst not ready/ won’t calibrate. They told me to drive and do drive cycles to get it to calibrate but that isn’t going to be the solution as I’ve done all I can regarding that.
i think you might have the solution. I bought the car with a crazy header and exhaust and had it all taken off to put on stock because I live in the city with very close neighbors in San Francisco. I was hoping to avoid having smog problems as well. I will have the ECU reset and hopefully it works!
When I go to any star certified smog shop I pass everything except it says catalyst not ready/ won’t calibrate. They told me to drive and do drive cycles to get it to calibrate but that isn’t going to be the solution as I’ve done all I can regarding that.
Basically flash back your OEM tune, drive at various speeds (similar to drive cycle procedure) ; all the readiness should be okay for your shop to smog and pass.
once done, reflash back your sports tune ..
#28
It worked!
The dealer flashed it back to stock and only drove it a few miles and I was good to go. I think I will just leave it unless I ever move out of california. It’s only going to get worse. Thank you everyone that helped!
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