Ok, when pumping the bleeder do you have to disconnect it from the brake fluid reservoir?

 

No. In fact DO NOT disconnect it unless you are adding more brake fluid to the reservoir. You need the power bleeder connected to the reservoir in order to create the seal to build pressure in the power bleeder that 'pushes' the fluid through the brake lines. I suggest reading up and watching a lot of videos on how to do this before you tackle this job. It is very easy if done right and a complete headache if done incorrectly (letting air in the system for example).

 

It all depends on which method right? some fill the power bleeder with brake fluid and others keep topping off the reservoir right?


If topping up the reservoir you close off all caliper nipples first right?

 

Okay I want to give you the benefit of the doubt so maybe I'm not understanding you but you only open one nipple at a time with fluid in the bleeder or topping the reservoir. I highly suggest you either watch someone else flush their brake system first or watch a lot of videos of it so you get the general concept before you tackle it on your 997. I would search in Rennlist and Renntech for the 997 specifics but really familiarize with the concept first.

 

I've watched a few videos on it but it jumps to the bleeder already connected and or doesn't show them topping off the reservoir. Hence I am not 100% on what happens there. Be nice when posting a DIY it showed every single step.


Im still not sure about the methods. Theres two, one where you connect the bleeder empty and one where you connect it full right?


For the bleeder full version I assume this means you don't have to keep topping up the reservoir. How many litres should be in bleeder for this method?


For the bleeder empty version I assume you tighten off the nipple you are working on when going back to the reservoir to top off? At that point when unscrewing the bleeder all pressure would be lost so after topping up the reservoir and re connecting the bleeder you then pump it back up and then go back to the nipple you were working on correct?

 

correct.... You always want to be under pressure when opening a nipple. Also not only under pressure but always make sure the fluid level in the reservoir doesn t go low (say under the min level to be safe). As nwGTR warned, it can be easy but if you introduce air it could be a nightmare.
After each nipple I re check the pressure and level of fluid just to be sure.

 

OK -here's my scenario, not to threadjack but I think it may spark relevant discussion.

At a recent autocross our regional PCA Autocross chair and DE instructor drove my car and mentioned he thought my brakes felt spongy. I figured I'd start with a brake flush even though it had been less than two years.

Took it to my indy who used the following procedure to flush the brakes:
-replace fluid in reservoir (without removing all of the old stuff)
-turn car on
-open outer nipple and pump brake about 25 times (with car still on). repeated for each corner, topping off fluid as needed.
-didn't bleed the inner nipples or clutch fluid

Brakes felt the same to me afterwards, and the instructor tells me they still feel spongy to him. Pads are about half-thickness in front, more in back, and rotors look OK as far as I can tell.

So my questions are:
-Is the brake flush useful without bleeding the inner nipples or clutch fluid?
-How about without flushing the fluid in the ABS system (from what I've read only the dealer can activate this feature)
-how come I've never read about this bleeding method (car on, pump brakes) on the forums?

JC

 

I assume the pump method (old school) is push down on pedal and hold other guy opens nipple while pedal goes to floor and then shut nipple BEFORE releasing pedal. Repeat.... That method is fine, just takes two people and a little longer.

As far as flushing clutch and ABS, IMO if you change it often enough
what you didn t get will dilute/mix with the new fluid and you ll get it next time.
Never heard of not doing the inner nipples
If done right it shouldn t still feel spongy or the same as before.

 

Thanks Mark -

This was a one man show, and seemed like a pretty easy way to do it without a power bleeder and no wheel removal.

The process was:
-attach hose
-open outer nipple
-get in driver seat
-pump brakes 25 times (car turned on)
-close nipple and remove hose.

As far as the inner nipple - at least Wayne Dempsey / Pelican says bleed first outer, then inner at each corner.

JC

 

I never thought hat this would be so difficult. I think I will sit down and have a beer. Damn when i replace my fluid after 30 min I'm done!

 

I'm with you on the beer part!

 

It's not difficult at all... don't get distracted by all the extra noise here.

Just get a Motive Power Bleeder (preferably Black Label - Euro version for swivel cap). First time, including lifting car and pulling wheels will be 1.5-2 hours. Why? It's foreign to you so you'll find yourself triple and quadruple checking everything - nothing wrong w/ that at all. Plus that's about 'book' time charged at a dealer. Next time you'll easily be < 1 hour and out $15-20 for the fluid. Most time now will be spent putting up on jack stands and pulling wheels.

Then you'll scratch your head at how simple it was to do. Best part... mechanics carry over to almost any other vehicle so you can save yourself even more coin there.

Good luck and happy DIY-ing

 

Im going to try the empty power bleeder method and top up the reservoir as I go. How fast does the reservoir empty when doing the rear calipers?


Can someone post a link to the right power bleeder on ebay please.

 

I just did this today for the first time. Super easy. I filled up a little over half of the catch bottle when all four calipers were done. I bought the Motiv several months ago and was a little apprehensive in doing it. I have a DE coming up and swapped pads so while I was there I let a little out of each caliper (outer & inner).

It's so easy I plan on doing my annual full system flush as a DIY soon.

 

Using dry works as well as wet (I switched to using dry years ago). Goes w/o saying but remember brake fluid is very corrosive to painted surfaces. Handle carefully and keep many a rag handy in frunk, at caliper and wrapped around fluid container, etc. and wipe up drips immediately.

How fast reservoir goes down depends on how open you have bleeder. 1/4-1/2 turn is more than sufficient - provides decent enough flow leaving you plenty reaction time to watch/measure and close valve when fresh fluid comes thru. Total system (997) holds < .5 liter/quart so overfill reservoir and re-check after each corner and you'll be fine. Draining off any excess fill to set final level is easily done whilst bleeding last caliper You'll get a nice feel after you do once (or twice).

Motive Model #0109 (European Black Label) is what you want. #0100 works too but #0109's swivel connector is worth the few extra $ (particularly in light of what you'll save DIY-ing once).

Good luck