Does anyone use anti size of their wheel bolts? Is this what Porsche do at the factory?

 

Never have never will...

 

Always have, always will, but not so much for the anti-seize properties. It also acts as a lubricant and allows you to apply precise and consistent torque across all of your wheel bolts. Without it the drag from the metal-to-metal friction of the threads results in misleading torque readings and unnecessary wear of the threads.

 

Anti seize is just copper grease right? I was thinking of using some as my wheel bolts look like this, should I replace these or just clean and apply some anti-seize?

Also do you still torque to 96 lbs when using anti-seize?

 

Here's a snapshot from the manual PDF regarding this.



It looks to me like you could clean and reuse your lugs. Yes, you torque to 96nm with the anti-seize since that they spec'ed the torque reading with anti-seize. The Castrol Optimol TA they recommend in the manual is rather pricey. You can find less expensive alternatives but I don't know if those products meet the recommended specs or no, so you'd want to carefully compare. One tube will last a very long time.

BTW, I've some some posts saying that Porsche upped the torque number a little higher in later recommendations, but I've stuck with 96 with no problems. I figure if it was critical they would have officially notified owners. Here is a thread discussing it: http://rennlist.com/forums/997-forum...heel-lugs.html

 

I wonder if this stuff would do - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/262019482965?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

• Use during assembly to assure easier removal and to stop siezing/rusting.
• Protects metal parts from seizing and galling at temperatures up to 2000F (1093C).
• High temperature semi-synthetic grease helps to reduce wear in heavy pressure applications
• This formula features a high percentage of premium quality, micro-fine copper flakes fortified with rust and corrosion inhibitors
• Made in USA

The instructions you screen shotted seem straight forward enough... Not sure though about how much paste I could get in between the bolt head and floating washer without getting any of it on the floating washer..

 

Is there any direction to apply anything to the caliper bolts in the manual?

 

Lubrication

There is a great deal of argument is whether to lubricate lug threads. Some swear by the use of some form of anti-seize on the threads, whether lithium grease, WD-40, motor oil or Teflon spray. The idea is to prevent rust and make it easier when it comes time to remove the lugs. Others recoil in horror, saying that lubing the threads will iresult in overtorqued nuts, or that the lubrication will cause the nuts to work themselves loose.

Manufacturers, engineers and other industry experts seem to unanimously oppose using lubrication. On the other hand, some customers, DIYers and self-appointed Internet forum experts claim to have used thread lube since the very dawn of time with nary a problem.

My own opinion is more nuanced. I disapprove of lubricating threads in general, unless they are badly rusted. Most lug bolts and lug studs are coated with a substance intended to prevent rust, but certain makes and models seem to be much more vulnerable to rust than others (I’m looking at you, Volvo).

In that case I can see applying a small amount of lubricant to prevent further corrosion, but only after carefully cleaning the rust off the threads with a wire brush. In most cases, however, I would simply ensure that the threads are clean and not bother with lubrication.

If you do apply lubricant, make sure to do so carefully and only to the threads. Never allow any lubricant on the mating surfaces of the nut or the lughole of the wheel.

Much of the “stickiness” brought about by proper torque comes not from the threads but from the contact between mating surfaces. Even a thin film of oil between those surfaces can create a hydraulic barrier, preventing proper torque from being applied. This can also make it easier for the nut to work itself loose.

 

The only vehicle I use any form of protectant is on my Jeep TJ wrangler. Four wheeling is one of my other passions and the Jeep is susceptible to extremely harsh conditions at many times!I run Walker Evans aluminum bead-lock rims, they can see a lot of water,dirt,sand and abuse etc.I only use anti-seize compound on the bead ring bolts,not the lug nuts! I just clean the lug stems with a wire brush and maybe spray a tad bit of WD-40 inside the lug nuts maybe twice a year and their fine!

 

I'm afraid you have me really scratching my head on your reply. "Unanimously oppose"?
The Porsche manual excerpt I showed above clearly calls for Castrol Optimal TA. BMW, Audi, and even Bentley recommend it as well... I wouldn't be surprised to find others. Doesn't sound very unanimous to me. Are you being one of those self-appointed experts who feels worthy of contradicting manufacturer recommendations?

I also am not claiming that you should use it one old-fashioned bolts used on wheel studs. That might be a different story. I am only referring to cars that use wheel bolts akin to ours.

 

No, I'm just explaining what my personal preference is... that is all!

 

Does the manual call for anything on caliper bolts? I was thinking maybe blue loctite, the anti-vibration one, same stuff you put on the steering wheel bolt.

 

I would not use Loctite.

As for anti-sieze compound, there are two types that I've come accross during my years of wrenching. Silver and Gold. Aluminum and Copper pastes. Try to use the one that best matches the metals you're dealing with, this will prevent galvanic corrosion from disimilar metals.

Bottom Line: in the case of your wheels try to use the silver aluminum paste.

For steel on steel either color works fine. As soon as an aluminum component is involved use the silver stuff.

 

I think his reference was to Loctite anti-seize products not the Loctite adhesives (he mentioned Blue Locktite).

http://www.loctite.com.au/lubricatio...seize-4096.htm

 

Yes blue anti vibration locktite.