997 Carrera At 73k Mileage?
997 Carrera At 73k Mileage?
Hi guys, shopping for a 997 Carrera non S at the moment.
I wanted to go for around the 50k mark mileage wise however however I have spotted one for 73k miles which I like - it has the features I like.
The seller has informed it has been serviced at Porsche right till 72k.
I also need a car soon as my current car is giving me problems (BMW).
If you guys could outline what problems I am likely to get if I buy this car then perhaps I can use it as a bargaining move to knock a bit of the price.
Also should I be expected to lose all or most of the value of the car if I sell it in a couple of years time with even greater mileage?
Thanks
I wanted to go for around the 50k mark mileage wise however however I have spotted one for 73k miles which I like - it has the features I like.
The seller has informed it has been serviced at Porsche right till 72k.
I also need a car soon as my current car is giving me problems (BMW).
If you guys could outline what problems I am likely to get if I buy this car then perhaps I can use it as a bargaining move to knock a bit of the price.
Also should I be expected to lose all or most of the value of the car if I sell it in a couple of years time with even greater mileage?
Thanks
High miles diminishes the value of Porsche s greatly. But that means you should be getting great deal also because of the existing mileage. I haven t got to those miles yet to report on issues.
I wouldn't let the miles scare me away, as long as it has been properly maintained.
Definitely do a PPI (Pre Purchase Inspection) and get receipts from what has been done.
If it passes the PPI and has documented maintenance, I wouldn't let the higher mileage sway me. For the PPI I would have a more intensive look done on it, look at the bores for scoring, drop the oil pan, cut the filter, DME report (for overrevs) etc. On the maintenance I would prefer oil changes once a year/every 5k miles.
It will sell for less than you bought it for, but if kept up on maintenance it should be tolerable. Run some numbers for current cars with higher mileage to see what they go for. Depends on upkeep and condition.
Definitely do a PPI (Pre Purchase Inspection) and get receipts from what has been done.
If it passes the PPI and has documented maintenance, I wouldn't let the higher mileage sway me. For the PPI I would have a more intensive look done on it, look at the bores for scoring, drop the oil pan, cut the filter, DME report (for overrevs) etc. On the maintenance I would prefer oil changes once a year/every 5k miles.
It will sell for less than you bought it for, but if kept up on maintenance it should be tolerable. Run some numbers for current cars with higher mileage to see what they go for. Depends on upkeep and condition.
another common problem for the 997.1 is the starter/alternator cable. If/when you take it for a test drive, start the car then turn it off. Start it up again, if the cranking is slow or sounds like the battery is dying. It is possible the cable is fried. Dealer charged me $1100 to fix it. They replaced it with 997.2 cable which is thicker. G/L
I have 68k on my '06 C2 and haven't experienced many issues, I've had it for 8yrs.
- Replaced clutch around 55k, added LWFW
- replaced oil every two years (2yrs or 20k according to Porsche)
- replaced pads once with pagid pads
- new tires twice
- spark plugs
- serpentine belt
- replaced battery ones
- filters
I haven't replaced:
My battery cable
Water pump
Only open issue:
- passenger window pressure sensor trips sometimes during hot weather.
Only gripe, sitting in traffic will eventually give you a sore @$$, then again I'm a big guy.
With 68k miles, it still drives like new.
Have also made a lot of upgrades, to feed my addiction:-)
- Replaced clutch around 55k, added LWFW
- replaced oil every two years (2yrs or 20k according to Porsche)
- replaced pads once with pagid pads
- new tires twice
- spark plugs
- serpentine belt
- replaced battery ones
- filters
I haven't replaced:
My battery cable
Water pump
Only open issue:
- passenger window pressure sensor trips sometimes during hot weather.
Only gripe, sitting in traffic will eventually give you a sore @$$, then again I'm a big guy.
With 68k miles, it still drives like new.
Have also made a lot of upgrades, to feed my addiction:-)
I would say one thing to think about is that Porsche recommended oil change intervals are not often enough. Look to see if it was done every 4-5k miles.
I have an 06 911S nearing 60K miles. I bought it with 23k miles a little more than 1.5 years ago
I drive it every chance I get and track it 4-5 times a year. Absolutely fantastic car.
I have an 06 911S nearing 60K miles. I bought it with 23k miles a little more than 1.5 years ago
I drive it every chance I get and track it 4-5 times a year. Absolutely fantastic car.
Last edited by Don; Dec 29, 2015 at 09:35 AM.
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I bought mine at 58000 miles a little over a year ago and have 66000 miles now. The higher mileage allowed me to get great deal on a well optioned car. In my case, the condition of the car was better than many of the lower mileage cars I looked at and the owner was an enthusiast that I trusted. I was also able to communicate with the shop that maintained the car. The car runs like new. Go for it!
I got my 997 with 65k (with a just-rebuilt engine) miles a couple of years ago and it now has 84k miles. In these 2 years, I've been through a tire change, brake pads, belt + pulleys, alternator cable (I think this is an early 05 issue). Very recently I had the plugs n coils replaced, and fluids flushed (major maintenance).
Of all the work done on the car, the starter cable, belt + pulleys were the repair jobs.. the rest were just part of maintenance.
I do not shy away from driving in the rain or snow - the car works fine in any weather. And I've been on long trips as well.
Just get a thorough PPI done and look for good service records/receipts.
Of all the work done on the car, the starter cable, belt + pulleys were the repair jobs.. the rest were just part of maintenance.
I do not shy away from driving in the rain or snow - the car works fine in any weather. And I've been on long trips as well.
Just get a thorough PPI done and look for good service records/receipts.
I bought my 997 S with around 95K miles. Have driven it for 1/2 a year without any issues. Car still feels amazing. As the others have mentioned, I do have the slow starting issue. Can be a bit embarrassing on start up
It's on my to-do list for 2016. Plan to drive it for a while until I can get into a 991.
It's on my to-do list for 2016. Plan to drive it for a while until I can get into a 991.
Hi guys, shopping for a 997 Carrera non S at the moment.
I wanted to go for around the 50k mark mileage wise however however I have spotted one for 73k miles which I like - it has the features I like.
The seller has informed it has been serviced at Porsche right till 72k.
I also need a car soon as my current car is giving me problems (BMW).
If you guys could outline what problems I am likely to get if I buy this car then perhaps I can use it as a bargaining move to knock a bit of the price.
Also should I be expected to lose all or most of the value of the car if I sell it in a couple of years time with even greater mileage?
Thanks
I wanted to go for around the 50k mark mileage wise however however I have spotted one for 73k miles which I like - it has the features I like.
The seller has informed it has been serviced at Porsche right till 72k.
I also need a car soon as my current car is giving me problems (BMW).
If you guys could outline what problems I am likely to get if I buy this car then perhaps I can use it as a bargaining move to knock a bit of the price.
Also should I be expected to lose all or most of the value of the car if I sell it in a couple of years time with even greater mileage?
Thanks
Briefly, as miles accumulate parts wear out. There are the usual parts: tires, brakes, spark plugs, but there are other parts/items that can wear out (will if you own/drive the car long enough): coils, MAF, AOS, water pump, fuel pump, starter, alternator, clutch (if a manual equipped car), O2 sensors, CV boots, and other things like door hardware, window hardware, various switches, and so on. It just depends upon luck and how many miles you put on the car.
(Over the miles -- currently 296K miles with my Boxster -- coils are original, as is the clutch and starter and alternator -- but I've gone through a MAF, 3 AOS's, wheel bearing, CV boots, water pump, fuel pump, both door locks, both window regulators, had to have the door membranes resealed -- to address damp door bottoms -- but found this wasn't sufficient and new window seals are being installed (tomorrow), and brake and cruise control interlock switches. Not mechanical but the windshield cowl cover worn out -- cracked -- and had to be replaced and some underbody plastic panels suffered from road debris contact (and old age/exposure) and were replaced. There's more: O2 sensors, one converter (used replacements sourced from a salvage vehicle), a coolant tank, a radiator fan motor, a coolant cap, two oil filler tube caps, a gas cap (the tether broke), a new top, front and rear trunk gas struts, and a VariCam solenoid and actuator.)
Besides, there is a limit to how much you can attempt to degrade and run down the car in order to negotiate a better price. At some point the seller's going to think if you believe the car's no good why the heck are you trying to buy it and tune you out and think about other things or just flat out tell you to take a hike.
You stand a better chance of negotiating a better price by showing the seller you are going to buy a car today -- well the day you view this car -- when you come to one of the cars on your list of cars in which you get your price. If the seller sees you walk away he has to believe he has lost a sale to another seller. You won't be back tomorrow or the day after offering more money. He is looking at a buyer walk away and he is faced with having to go through this car showing thing again, run the ad longer, put off what he wants to do with the money once he sells the car.
Last edited by Macster; Dec 30, 2015 at 11:07 PM.
OP.... Mac is a hard member to follow in a thread.... that said, he pretty much hit it on the head.
In my experience of owning 911's, I have typically replaced several components BEFORE failure.
Such as ... AOS, Water pump's, stat, coils. If your clutch is original on the base Carrera youre looking at, its a catch 22 with replacement by way of leaking RMS, or clutch starting to slip a bit. One facilitates doing the other.
The city driven examples will have more clutch wear typically than a hwy cruiser.
I do my own work, as well as a few other folks P cars, so I just buy parts and replace. Good luck with whatever you decide to go with. Mileage wouldn't bother me any in the 70K range...after all... its nearly a decade old car, the miles are low.
In my experience of owning 911's, I have typically replaced several components BEFORE failure.
Such as ... AOS, Water pump's, stat, coils. If your clutch is original on the base Carrera youre looking at, its a catch 22 with replacement by way of leaking RMS, or clutch starting to slip a bit. One facilitates doing the other.
The city driven examples will have more clutch wear typically than a hwy cruiser.
I do my own work, as well as a few other folks P cars, so I just buy parts and replace. Good luck with whatever you decide to go with. Mileage wouldn't bother me any in the 70K range...after all... its nearly a decade old car, the miles are low.
Thanks for the responses.
I was originally going in at the 50k mileage, but I'm estimating I will do at least 20k, so by the time I sell the 50k one it would have got 70k on the clock which would mean my then car would be classed as high mileage.
Whereas this 73k one today is one for a lot cheaper and I'm more prepared to lose more of the money in say a couple of years time.
I'll try out the recommendations on the test drive and I guess if I like it I'll put down the deposit.
I was originally going in at the 50k mileage, but I'm estimating I will do at least 20k, so by the time I sell the 50k one it would have got 70k on the clock which would mean my then car would be classed as high mileage.
Whereas this 73k one today is one for a lot cheaper and I'm more prepared to lose more of the money in say a couple of years time.
I'll try out the recommendations on the test drive and I guess if I like it I'll put down the deposit.
Try not to overthink this too much. Buying a 997 now in the 50-80K mile range, youll find these cars at there least expensive cost (dare I say "Cheapest"), and I cant see the 997 regardless of miles selling for less than $25K even with 150K miles.
One more thing.... Buy the driver, not the car!! If it has records going with it, id much rather have the higher mile car with records, than the lower miler car w/o records. Being able to meet your P.O. is a valuable tool in finding your ideal car....Private party sales are great in this respect.
One more thing.... Buy the driver, not the car!! If it has records going with it, id much rather have the higher mile car with records, than the lower miler car w/o records. Being able to meet your P.O. is a valuable tool in finding your ideal car....Private party sales are great in this respect.
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