Hi everyone,
I have just purchased a 2006 Carrera S. Are there any issues that I should be aware of??? Thanks for the help.

 

Intermediate shaft bearing, u may want to consider doing the upgrade, is not a huge possibility but if it fails it'll ruin your engine, this is probably the most serious issue you can have on these cars, engines and electronics are bulletproof but they have this one possibility.

Battery to alternator cable, if you start experiencing slow cranks it may not be the battery, could be the cable that needs replacing, it's not cheap, probably around 1k to do, just did it myself, this will not ruin your car but it will ruin your day, eventually it'll get progressively worse to the point that the car won't start when at running temp, start fine when you leave your garage but if you stop and get a soda and then get in your car again it may seem battery is dead but is not the battery, once it cools the car will eventually start up again.

 

Long post, too much coffee this morning so read and digest slowly.

2006 and up 997.1 have the larger IMS bearing. To replace it requires dropping the transmission. Failure rates are extremely low, so low that it's not really worth replacing on it's own. But if you own a MT and the clutch needs replacement, do the RMS seal and perhaps an IMS bearing upgrade at the same time for peace of mind. Personally I wouldn't spend the money on an IMS upgrade by itself for a larger bearing car. But if the car was a dedicated track car I'd consider doing the preventative work. Dedicated, not a car driven on the streets.

Bore scoring is a different engine failure that does happen, but still very low occurrence. It's more probable than an IMS bearing failure on a 2006 and up, but again a very low occurrence. People aren't really sure what causes it. It's rare, but does happen. Excessive oil consumption of 1 qt per 500 miles or more is a symptom. Uneven sooting on the tailpipes left to right side is also a sign, mostly on the left/drivers side. White exhaust smoke from one side of the car is another. There are theories that some cylinders on the right/passenger side do not get enough oil flow under certain conditions (high-g cornering perhaps?). The tailpipes cross under the car and exhaust out the left. Know your oil consumption and watch for changes.

Speaking of oil consumption, it's all over the map here. Some burn very little. Others more. I have a higher mileage 2006 and burn about 1 to 2 quarts every 5000 miles, depending upon driving habits. This seems to be in the middle to the higher side compared to others. Burning oil is normal. A change in oil consumption is not normal. And change your oil frequently. 5000 miles or once a year is a very good interval. Frequently is more important than oil brand.

The battery to alternator wire harness is a problem, mostly 2005 and 2006, some 2007's. The updated parts are cheap but labor can be an issue. The car also likes to eat batteries so unless you drive often buy a trickle charger. CTEK makes good ones. The Porsche branded ones are CTEK inside at twice the price.

Tires wear pretty fast, especially in the inside rears. Reducing rear toe through alignment will help. Have your alignment shop get as close to the lower side of the rear toe spec as possible.

The PCM radio/NAV is junk. It was a few years behind the times when the car was new. Now it's like using a 1980's IBM PC. If you insist on staying with OEM there are ways to connect your phone via Bluetooth with aftermarket solutions. Music and nav through your phone is much better. An alternative is to replace the entire head unit with something more modern from Pioneer or Alpine. The integration is pretty clean too, not cheesy like some radio replacements can be.

Coil packs tend to crack causing misfire OBDII codes. It's more common in the colder weather climates with winter/salted roads. But it does happen in warm climates too. Replacement is a moderate DIY project when changing out spark plugs. Four or five of the cylinders are pretty straight forward to do. The sixth can be a challenge to reach.

Coolant overflow tank is known to crack and leak due to age. If it happens do your water pump at the same time.

Air oil separator (AOS) also can fail. The car will smoke a ton when it happens. No real signs beforehand, just know it can happen.

So out of all this list I've replaced the battery, the battery harness and coolant overflow tank on my 2006. I've also preventively done the coil packs when my plugs needed change out, but they looked pretty clean at the time. I do worry about engine failures, have regular used oil analysis done and they always come back looking great without any trouble. I have a tiny rear main seal oil leak while sitting over the winter but will live with it, a quarter size drop if that, and will fix it when the clutch eventually needs replacement. And I have the parts to replace my PCM with a more modern one but keep putting it off because honestly I drive with the radio off 99% of the time.

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Great write up, thanks!

 

Thank you very much for the information, especially "semicycler".
I really appreciate the help.

 

You still have time to return it.









































j/k, for the most part it's very reliable, I've RMS leak fixed under warranty, was parked too long and the seals dried up. Had premature tie rod wear, was a known issue with some 2006's, bad batch of tie rods, lucky me. My cable to the alternator might needs to be replaced sometime in the future. It starts up every time but a bit slow.

 

Thanks semicycler, very informative post. How many miles do you have on your car ?

My 06 C2S have approx. 30,000 miles on it and I have replaced tires, battery & Nav only (summer driven only). The car uses maybe 0.25 qt. of oil in between oil change (~4000 miles interval) so hopefully, things keep going strong on her.....but I think I will need another new battery when summer rolls around.

 

What are the symptoms of premature tie rod wear ? too much play in the steering ?

Maybe I need to pay attention to this. Thanks

 

I have an 06S.

Bought it with 48k on the clock. I did get a very complete PPI on it before purchase which came back clear. Just needed a battery which the dealer put in.

I did the major two days after purchase ($1k) as I wanted a clear slate to start with since the service records were less than complete. I did several mods but mostly cosmetic, except for the Fister Titaniums, which was for sound (they are great!). I just put on a set of MPSS ($1200) as well as replaced the water pump as a preventative service ($700). Next will be the motor mounts.

The car has been flawless and a joy to drive and I've had it for about 18 months...at 54k now.

 

you'r not enjoying it enough.

 

Yeah....workie work, busy bee.

Did take it to California Speedway a couple of times to ring it out. Still have dreams about those days!