Hi guys,

Apologies in advance as I'm sure this topic has been covered in detail somewhere, but I'm having trouble finding it! I'm fitting a set of RE-11's and getting new inner and outer tie rods this month which means I need to get my car up on the rack to get aligned. Is there anything I can play with in terms of tweaking the alignment just a little from factory spec using all stock suspension components? I will be using this car for autocross and hopefully some HPDE's this season. Thanks!

 

See here and use the Rest of World (ROW) Performance Specs as a starting point (first table, last column): https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...ml#post4499848

Each entry has a +/- range. For camber you want as much as you can get up front so go for the upper spec of .75 deg (-30' - 15' = -45' or .75 deg). I'd even go beyond that and max out the front negative camber. You should get to about -1.1 degrees or so depending upon if you are dropped or not. Great alignment shops might be able to get you closer to GT3 specs of -1.5 degrees but it might require the strut top mounts to be rotated 180 degrees.

For autocross front toe as close to zero as possible, which is the lower end of the spec (5' - 5' = 0' or 0 deg). Rear camber works well around -1.5 deg or so to start, maybe even some more to land in the middle of the spec at -1.66 deg. But don't go more than 0.5 degrees away from the front camber. You want the front to rear difference within 0.5 degrees. Rear toe towards the lower end of the spec to minimize tire wear (10' - 5' = 5' or .083 degrees).

Front camber: max negative with stock suspension
Front toe: close to zero to a hair positive
Rear camber: -1.5 degrees as a starting point, and up from there depending upon front camber
Front to rear camber difference: 0.5 deg or less
Rear toe: approx .1 degree
Caster: wherever it lands as long as it's in spec, there are no stock adjustments here

I know you want to stay stock but take a look at the DSC control box too. It really transforms your stock suspension and does wonders for autocross. Swapping the PASM box for the DSC box is very easy. Unplug the OEM version in the passenger footwell and plug in the DSC version. But for the 997.1 you will need to wire in an accelerometer for the new box to work (four wires spliced into the CAN bus). After the one time splicing in of the accelerometer it's super easy to swap back and forth from stock to DSC control boxes.

 

Are you going to a dealer or indy? Does the dealer support Motorsport? if not, find an indy that does. They'll help you with the pros & cons of each adjustment. My alignment is tweaked pretty good but the downside is it's a little twitchy on the highway.