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What comp/reb settings are you running? I'm testing out going stiffer in the rear this weekend. Something closer to 18. Will likely settle on 10-15 in front.
Glad that all worked out and the car looks great! This thread should help others looking to lower as I can't imagine doing springs in place of getting a set of BC's that offer all these features and perform very well.
I'm guessing the H&R and Ohlins R&T would have performed just as well and maybe even better. Won't know for certain until we see some real world reviews. I will say though the spring rates BC chose and the internal valve stacks themselves are incredibly well matched which is a critical feature and the key reason these perform so well.
Thanks.
I'm going to need to reduce the rear 15mm spacers to 10mm given some rubbing on hard bumps or adjust the rears to a firmer setting. I don't know how to do that yet. I did provide the settings you recommended and it feels and drives so much better than the springs.
i should've purchased the adjustment extenders for the rears, but I'll likely just get a set of 10mm because I really like the ride - and the look! Totally dig it!
If you have the BOSE sub the extenders are a fairly significant mod. My idea was to leave the sub box out during my initial setup and testing and then put the box back in once I'm done. I'm more of set and forget it type.
The fronts are a no brainer. Remove the plastic cover over the shock tower area and turn the ****. Always start from full out which is counter clockwise. Turn in clockwise the desired number of clicks.
With the ***** set to full out / counter clockwise = full soft
Full in/clockwise = full hard.
IMHO there really isn't as wide of an adjustment range on these things as the manufacture would have you believe. The "usable range" is roughly 8-10 clicks from middle both front and rear. The rest is just marketing...
On my prior 997 (non-S) I had H&R street coil overs and they didn't have the dual adjustment of this set and it's so much better, and for sure the springs.
Since moving to OKC I'm finding the roads here are pretty bumpy and uneven and perhaps it's because of the winters being colder, or just poor infrastructure - perhaps both.
I'm really regretting not getting the extenders and I think the shop didn't set the rears and they're too soft. As a result over bumps the inside of the tire rubs again the inner wheel wheel.
Does the adjustment on the rear require removing the coil over? It seems like it does. :-/
Yes you can easily adjust the rears from inside the car without removal. All you need to take out is the Bose sub if you have one and the 3 panels covering the towers. 10 minutes tops...
The extenders allow you to adjust without anything being removed as they "extend" through the 2 panels covering the towers. Obviously requires cutting two small holes in the outer panels for the adjuster **** to penetrate through. I'm planning to take some measurements this week to determine how far the extenders will protrude after installation. There are 2 different length options and I want the one with the least protrusion.
On the settings. Once you have the covers off turn the adjusters all the way out (counter clockwise) and record the number of clicks for each. I would recommend starting with 15-18 clicks in from there on the rears and 17-20 clicks in on the front. Always keeping a slight (2-4 click) bias towards the front settings being stiffer (clockwise).
I think what you'll find is the sweet spot is right around where I posted above and maybe a tad stiffer all around. I'm not a fan of such wide ranging (30) click adjustment range as the usable range is likely less than 10 clicks. Any more in any direction and the shock is not going to perform well.
Another side note is you'll likely not feel a 1 or 2 click difference with the adjusters but 3-4 will be noticeable.
I installed mine yesterday and took it to the alignment shop as soon as I had it out of the garage. I'm still dialing it in but all of the recommendations on this thread have been very helpful.
It's a very straightforward job if you have the tools and space. 4 hours for the front and 3 for the rear.
The time-consuming part was finding all of the torque values. Here is the link that helped me the most.
Is that before or after? It looks like the Non-S stock ride height
Originally Posted by burnze
I installed mine yesterday and took it to the alignment shop as soon as I had it out of the garage. I'm still dialing it in but all of the recommendations on this thread have been very helpful.
It's a very straightforward job if you have the tools and space. 4 hours for the front and 3 for the rear.
The time-consuming part was finding all of the torque values. Here is the link that helped me the most.
03-25-2017, 08:10 AM
