FWIW, this is from Mike (former Aston engineer) at Bamford Rose said recently re: Fuse 22:

"Loss of low speed torque when fuse 22 is removed - there is None - exhaust bypass valves open vs closed returns the same torque output. . . .

Removing fuse 22 electronically inhibits operation of the vacuum pump which controls the valves. The default position of the valves is 'open', so by disabling the system the valves simply sit in their default position. Prolonged usage with the valves at default open position is highly unlikely to seize or stick the valves should they be operated at some point in the future. I have also read elsewhere owners have been advised not to remove fuse 22 as they have been told it creates fault codes which disrupt the diagnostic system, or somehow creates other (electronic / mechanical) faults - Rubbish... All that happens is a PCode is simply registered within the modules history to state electronic control of the valves was not possible, this code does not illuminate the yellow 'check engine' light on the dash."

 

I'm going to try this mod. Did everyone put an inline fuse on the red wire? What value fuse did you use?

 

Yes, put a in-line fuse in the red wire, the same value as ''Fuse 22" which I think is 20 amp. (You can buy a fuse holder at Radio Shack that will hold fuse 22). Here is the remote control I bought and installed, and it has worked perfectly for more than a year. You can either use the remote control that comes with the relay-box, or program the HomeLink on your Aston to control the switch--as I did.

 

Sounds good. I think I'm going to buy a spare fuse and drill out the wire between the two spades, fill it with composite and solder the wires onto the posts of the fuse. With all my dental equipment that should be a piece of cake and fit securely.

 

No need for your special skills...
PM sent

 

If you just install spade lugs, like shown in the picture, then you can just plug the wires in directly to the fuse holder in place of the fuse. The spade lugs fit in the same slots as the fuse came out of. The Red wire goes into the side of the fuse holder that has +12v on it when the ignition is turned on, the white wire goes in the other slot. The black wire can be connected to ground. I used the metal panel just forward of the fuse box to connect the black wire to ground.

 

Ok, here's a question - fuse 15 is now a 5A fuse. What do I need to modify in the remote setup to make sure it's properly protected. I was going to set it up per DonL's recommendation to bump the 15A remote circuit to a 20A. Would using a 5A fuse in his schematic override the 15A or would I have a situation where it would't blow as designed if necessary?

 

Since the remote module is rated for 15A, and the new "S" circuit is protected by a 5A fuse, using a 5A fuse is the correct choice-the "fault" current passing through will not exceed the rating of the remote module: the 5A fuse should "blow" before damage to the remote module occurs.

The earlier design with an interposing relay (for the 20A fuse circuit) was needed to protect the lower rated remote module if there was a "fault".

It's apparent AM made changes in the exhaust valve circuitry in the "newer" models which obsoletes my earlier design. Progress marches on...

 

Great idea! Definitely a worthwhile modification

 

excuse my dumb *** question? why do you guys just not leave it out???? like we do in South Africa? below 3K its not noisy and above 5 its really nice

 

That's what I do! Just right......

 

Same here, I actually wish the exhaust was a little bit louder.

 

Over 95% of the time I like to have the valves open too. Every now and then, however, it's nice to be able to close them (driving by cops, having a conversation while on the highway, etc.). If you install the way described above, the default is valves open, in which case it is as if you pulled the fuse, until you hit the switch. And, the car will always start with valves open. For 100 bucks and a few minutes of your time, I think it's a great mod.

 

Awesome! Love all the little mods I'm finding on here. Question, I've got an 09+ V8V and wanted to know if Fuse 22 is still the same? What is this Fuse 15 talk?

 

The fuse for the exhaust valves used to be Fuse 22. It is Fuse 15 on the newer cars.