I know this has been mentioned before but not sure if anyone actually fitted it, a relatively easy way to add a remote switch for F22. Non-destructive fitting, very easy to remove if you want.

First, buy this (available in many places but this was the cheapest I found (no affiliation)),

http://www.southerncarparts.com/corv...tch-p-231.html

The fuse won't work as-is because the placement of the attached wires prevents the fuse from being fully inserted in the correct orientation. Cut the red wire and attach a spade connector. For the white wire, cut back the shrink wrap where it attaches to the fuse, and pull out the wire (it already has a spade connector on it). The red wire is power for the relay module, the white wire is switched. Insert the red spade into the F22 slot towards the center of the fuse box (always +12V when the ignition is on). Insert the white spade into the F22 slot towards the outside of the fuse box (either +12V or 0V depending on position of relay). Ground the black wires somewhere on the chassis (I used the metal post where the battery cut-off switch is located). I velcro'd the module to the outside of the fuse-box. You could cut holes in the fuse box lid to pass the wires if you want, but I just left the lid off.

On the remote,

"ON" = the circuit is closed, +12V passes through the white wire = the same as F22 being in-place = flaps closed = Quiet
"OFF" = the circuit is open, +0V passes through the white wire = the same as F22 being removed = flaps open = Loud

It will always start in the "OFF" (Loud) position, no matter where it was when the ignition was last turned-off.

Caveat emptor!

 

Thanks for posting this. Can you post a pic of the unit after your modification? Also, where did you find the spade contacts?

 

Here's a pic. Ignore the red/black wire that I have spliced to the white wire with the blue connector, I just did that for a tap to make it easier to check the voltage at the white wire. You can get the spade connectors at Radio Shack (get the narrowest ones you can find).

 

Great, thanks. I may give this a try.

 

I ordered the unit. One more question. It appears in the photo that you placed a white non-conductive spacer between the two "spades" that are inserted into the fuse box to prevent the them from contacting each other (and creating a short circuit). What did you use for the spacer?

 

Well spotted! I actually don't think it's necessary since the two sides of the fuse socket are separated by a thin strip of plastic, but I did it as a "belt and braces" measure. All it is is a piece of folded cardboard. Not elegant I admit, but effective.

 

Any concerns about flammability? I was thinking I'd try to find a thin piece of plastic from the Shack or Home Depot.

 

I think if anything gets hot enough to ignite the cardboard, that would be the least of your worries!

 

You might try swapping the position of the red and white wires in the fuse slot. Depending on whether the hot side is always hot, this should retain your last setting between starts.

Cheers.

 

No, the hot side is not always hot, only when the ignition is switched on.

 

Well, you could use a relay and drive it with a wire that isn't switched. It probably isn't worth the effort, though, considering how easy it is to simply press the button to switch it.

I might consider this mod myself. Thanks for your post.

 

Personally I want it to start "loud"! I just set it to "quiet" if I'm going to be on the freeway for some time.

 

My thought exactly. I want the flaps open 95% of the time and only close them on those rare occasions when I go on an extended roadtrip. I also like the idea of actuating the flaps every once and a while to keep them operational.

 

My thought was the opposite. When I'm home, I'd like it to start off quiet and stay that way until I leave my neighborhood—especially when I go for one of my late night drives. Then, once I'm away from my community, open it up to "11".

keitheva, did you program it onto your Homelink in the rearview mirror? My car doesn't have that option nor the self-dimming mirror. I wonder if it would cost a small fortune to have it added by my dealer.

 

I live out in the country so don't have the neighbour problem, I can be as anti-social as I like!

I don't have the Homelink or auto-dimming mirror either. I'm sure it would cost a small fortune to have it added (like everything else)!