Gotcha! Thanks a lot, I figured that might be the case but couldn't verify with all my searching and the different posts. Just so it's documented here, what model year did they change it to fuse 15? And I assume, this mod is exactly the same -- I would just need to do it to fuse 15 versus fuse 22, correct? Thanks for the help!

 

I just measured the current through fuse 22 and it measured 0.53A when the pump is working.

Any idea why we need a 20A fuse for this circuit?

 

Has anyone confirmed if this works with home link?? I love the idea of using and OEM integrated solution... Very James Bond

 

I bought this relay and remote controls, and then use HomeLink to control the relay. Takes two HomeLink buttons to control, 1 for loud and 1 for quiet.

 

Great link... Is mild 2 wild basically and identical unit with their own stickers on it? I will be programming homelink buttons #2-3 with this once I get high flow cats on the car next week. I want the ability to quiet the car down for date nights & etc in case I actually want to listen to the conversation in the car

 

I'm not familiar with "Mild to Wild", but I wouldn't be surprised if they are the same. The relay has 4-leads. One goes to 12v (tap into the battery-charge port near the fuse box). One lead goes to ground--just fasten it to any metal near the fuse box. For the other two leads just put "spade-lugs" on them and plug each of them into the spade connectors where you removed the fuse. That's it.

 

Just bought a remote switch unit from ebay.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/151298519481...84.m1497.l2649

I am going to try an install with all components within the fuse box.

 

That should work fine. Since it has only one control button you should be able to use just one Home-Link button to control the switch.

 

^^^^^ I'm not so sure because the translation from Chinese is very cryptic. If I understood the description correctly, in order to have a latching switch you need to order the unit with a two-button remote. Otherwise, the unit behaves as a momentary switch. Of course, you could build your own latching circuit.

 

I was thinking about doing the same thing for a much cleaner/safer look. Did you ever figure out a solution for this? Or is there something already on the market that does this?

Thanks

 

Been using the Mild 2 Wild for few years now with no issues **knock on wood**, I just branch in on the back of the fuse box connector wires and everything is hidden..I used to solder the joints but now Aston kind of frowns on soldering so I use crimp/heat shrink joints, cut off the ground fish eye and fit a larger fitting, then gnd to the fusebox bracket studs on the chassis..looks great(hehe ..it's hidden), reversible and programs to 2 buttons on HomeLink.....WinWin

 

If you install these spade-lugs on the two control wires, you can just insert them into the two sockets that the fuse was removed from. Easy-Peasy.

 

Here's a brief clip of mine after I fitted the remote switch the other weekend, not very exciting but it shows the sound difference when operating the remote switch.

 

Hey David,

Thanks for the very cool video comparison, that definitely does help.

The main reason I want to do it is because I am getting high flow cats soon and sometimes it will be nice to quiet the cabin down (especially on long trips and etc).

 

I'm not sure I understand David's video above. The exhaust valve flaps are only supposed to close from 1500 RPM to 3000 RPM. If the car is actually idling (~750 RPM), then enabling the exhaust valves shouldn't make any difference at that engine speed. What's going on here? Why are we hearing at difference at idle?