Fuse 22 remote switch
#31
06-12-2011, 11:08 AM
I haven't I'm afraid. I always see +12V when it's "on" (= fuse 22 in), and 0V when it's "off". But I haven't done the amount of "experimenting" that you seem to have done.
#32
06-12-2011, 11:32 AM
Thinking more about this I have a theory that might explain it. After the ignition is turned off, the unit always starts "off" (flaps open) when the ignition is turned back on, no matter where it was when it was turned off. This may be analogous to when the rpm sensor would have normally opened the flaps, perhaps by cutting input voltage across fuse22. If so, this would also cut input voltage to the unit. Then when rpms drop, and input voltage is restored, the unit will again start in the off position. This might explain what you are observing. A simple test for this would be to find and use an always on +12V input for the red wire to the unit. I will try that when I have some time.
#33
06-12-2011, 12:22 PM
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Thinking more about this I have a theory that might explain it. After the ignition is turned off, the unit always starts "off" (flaps open) when the ignition is turned back on, no matter where it was when it was turned off. This may be analogous to when the rpm sensor would have normally opened the flaps, perhaps by cutting input voltage across fuse22. If so, this would also cut input voltage to the unit. Then when rpms drop, and input voltage is restored, the unit will again start in the off position. This might explain what you are observing. A simple test for this would be to find and use an always on +12V input for the red wire to the unit. I will try that when I have some time.
I will wait for your experimentation. Although I have a technical background, I am hopeless when it comes to electrical circuits.
#36
06-12-2011, 02:24 PM
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Okay, disregard my previous post. Seems like the remote switch is failing. The flaps are now opening on their own after a few seconds regardless of rpm or throttle position.
#37
06-12-2011, 02:33 PM
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Pulling the fuse is fine. It doesn't cause any problems or throw fault codes.
#38
06-21-2011, 07:48 AM
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Update . . .
I noticed that the ground wire's connection to the car's frame seemed a bit loose, so I tightened it. I also swapped out the first remote control with the second remote control. I'm not sure if the problem was the loose ground wire or the first remote control (or its batteries), but everything appears to be working great now. I can now run the car in OEM or always-open mode at the touch of the button, as desired.
#39
06-24-2011, 07:54 AM
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One more note on this topic. The flaps on the V12 are closed from 2,000 to 4,500 rpm, not the 1,500-4,000 which several you identified for the V8. Also, based on the grumble I hear, the flaps seem to open within the 2,000-4,500 range when you release the gas peddle.
#40
09-23-2011, 07:52 PM
The fuse won't work as-is because the placement of the attached wires prevents the fuse from being fully inserted in the correct orientation. Cut the red wire and attach a spade connector. For the white wire, cut back the shrink wrap where it attaches to the fuse, and pull out the wire (it already has a spade connector on it). The red wire is power for the relay module, the white wire is switched. Insert the red spade into the F22 slot towards the center of the fuse box (always +12V when the ignition is on). Insert the white spade into the F22 slot towards the outside of the fuse box (either +12V or 0V depending on position of relay).
I just bought a used Mild2Wild on eBay for $20. I was hoping to tap power from fuse 7--the battery disconnect switch, which I assume is always powered. That way, the system will "remember" its setting rather than resetting to loud when the ignition is turned off (I hope).
#41
12-06-2011, 04:17 PM
just thought i'd chime in and say real quick, the M2W setup is proven to be safe and effective. We use it on our Corvette Z06's, id say 1/5 members have them, so its a BIG mod to have...
#42
12-06-2011, 05:09 PM
This is not all true. Correct it does not seem to cause any problems, but it does throw fault codes. The engine light will not come on or cause smog cert. failures, but codes are stored.
#44
12-07-2011, 08:47 PM
I also ordered one (not yet installed) but, due to the ridiculous restrictions on Amazon.com's site that prohibits the shipment of most electronics into Canada (even if not offered on Amazon.ca) I had to hunt around elsewhere. Found a similar unit on eBay for around $13 ...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/LOGISYS-RM02...#ht_4011wt_963
... for e.g.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/LOGISYS-RM02...#ht_4011wt_963
... for e.g.
#45
12-08-2011, 09:36 AM
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Yup that will work just fine, and for under $20 bucks with shipping. That's the same one I installed. Remember to install an inline fuse in the red-wire.
It should be noted that Fuse 22 is a 20-amp fuse, but the circuit draws less than 10-amps, so that 15amp switch works fine. Also it should be noted that if you connect the red wire (+12V) into the fuse holder (and it should be done with a small spade connector in the slot toward the center of the fuse box) then the 12V will go off when the ignition is turned off. That means that the switch will automatically "open" and the exhaust will return to "Loud" when you re-start the car. My recommendation is to not connect the Red Wire to an "unswitched" +12V, because that will keep voltage applied to the switch all the time and be a continuous drain on the battery.
It should be noted that Fuse 22 is a 20-amp fuse, but the circuit draws less than 10-amps, so that 15amp switch works fine. Also it should be noted that if you connect the red wire (+12V) into the fuse holder (and it should be done with a small spade connector in the slot toward the center of the fuse box) then the 12V will go off when the ignition is turned off. That means that the switch will automatically "open" and the exhaust will return to "Loud" when you re-start the car. My recommendation is to not connect the Red Wire to an "unswitched" +12V, because that will keep voltage applied to the switch all the time and be a continuous drain on the battery.