Oil Leak :(
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Registered User
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 327
From: Houston, Texas
Rep Power: 31
Oil Leak :(
I discovered a couple of oil small oil spots in my garage below my 2007 MT V8V. The location is suspiciously close to the notorious front timing belt cover. I have not had time to crawl under the car and have a good look, maybe this weekend ... I also have oil residue in the separator assembly and associated hoses, not much but enough to get your hands pretty oily.
When I purchased the car in November 2010, I checked the service history with the local AM dealership and they confirmed that this oil leak had been fixed. (I don't know when) I am guessing they may have performed the "early" fix where they tried the sealant and did not do the full gasket replacement. I might try and follow up with them who knows how cooperative the service manager will be.
The car is out of warranty, the service manager at the dealership didn't recommend I get it as he said the cars were very reliable and the "oil leak" had been fixed.
Couple of questions:
1. Probably no chance the dealer will cover the work or part of it since they did the repair work that did not hold ??? (I know this is probably not very likely)
2. For those in the Houston area, do you have recommendations on independent shops that could possibly tackle this job ... as well as perform the annual maintenance??
3. This is for the couple of AM mechanics that help us out here on the board. Is this something a couple of amateur mechanics could handle. I grew up working on cars (nothing the caliber of AM but I dropped a transmission or two with my dad). A good friend of mine is pretty competent. He has pretty much rebuilt his C6 for the track and done some hard core mods himself to all the cars he has owned (mostly Subaru turbos). He is currently doing a lot of work to his H1: complete suspension rebuild with lift, changing out diffs, gearing, brakes, etc. to accommodate huge tires and tons of added weight.
I have read that this is a 10+hr job at the dealer, I don't mind putting in the time wrenching and learning a thing or two ... but I don't want to get to a point where exotic AM tools are required
or heavy electronics are concerned.
I love the car ... sux to have it out of commission.
When I purchased the car in November 2010, I checked the service history with the local AM dealership and they confirmed that this oil leak had been fixed. (I don't know when) I am guessing they may have performed the "early" fix where they tried the sealant and did not do the full gasket replacement. I might try and follow up with them who knows how cooperative the service manager will be.
The car is out of warranty, the service manager at the dealership didn't recommend I get it as he said the cars were very reliable and the "oil leak" had been fixed.
Couple of questions:
1. Probably no chance the dealer will cover the work or part of it since they did the repair work that did not hold ??? (I know this is probably not very likely)
2. For those in the Houston area, do you have recommendations on independent shops that could possibly tackle this job ... as well as perform the annual maintenance??
3. This is for the couple of AM mechanics that help us out here on the board. Is this something a couple of amateur mechanics could handle. I grew up working on cars (nothing the caliber of AM but I dropped a transmission or two with my dad). A good friend of mine is pretty competent. He has pretty much rebuilt his C6 for the track and done some hard core mods himself to all the cars he has owned (mostly Subaru turbos). He is currently doing a lot of work to his H1: complete suspension rebuild with lift, changing out diffs, gearing, brakes, etc. to accommodate huge tires and tons of added weight.
I have read that this is a 10+hr job at the dealer, I don't mind putting in the time wrenching and learning a thing or two ... but I don't want to get to a point where exotic AM tools are required
or heavy electronics are concerned. I love the car ... sux to have it out of commission.
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Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 273
From: Los Altos, CA
Rep Power: 26
I can sympathize....my car is also currently out of commission. 
With respect to your oil leak, I believe there are quite a few threads on that topic. From what I remember, the dealer charges about $2,500 to fix that problem. I would definitely make a fuss about the dealer's repair not holding up....what's the worst that can happen?
With respect to the extended warranty, it could be money well spent if you ever have a major repair that needs to get done. I purchased the extended warranty for my 2009 V8 Vantage (only has 4,500 miles) and so far it seems like it'll end up saving me some serious $$ based on the repairs I've already had done after the original warranty expired.
Best of luck to you!
With respect to your oil leak, I believe there are quite a few threads on that topic. From what I remember, the dealer charges about $2,500 to fix that problem. I would definitely make a fuss about the dealer's repair not holding up....what's the worst that can happen?
With respect to the extended warranty, it could be money well spent if you ever have a major repair that needs to get done. I purchased the extended warranty for my 2009 V8 Vantage (only has 4,500 miles) and so far it seems like it'll end up saving me some serious $$ based on the repairs I've already had done after the original warranty expired.
Best of luck to you!
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Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 2,981
From: British Columbia
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The timing cover gasket is not the fix for the timing cover leaking..this is usually mis diagnosed. The leak at the timing cover is from the rope seal that joins the timing cover-head-cam cover. the tri joint seal(rope seal) leaks at this intersecting point. The fix is to drill out the timing cover seal at the tri joint to the guset, fill with silicone and fit a new cam cover seal...labour under warranty for it's bulliten repair is 3.75hr (that's total for both side repair)...
Another oil leak which most ppl miss diagnose for the timing cover is the oil/air separator leaking down the return pipe and covering the bottom of the timing cover with oil..the oil also sprays from teh separator onto the timing cover LH contact area so timing cover gasket seal is replaced when misdiagnosed.
Check the oil separator, if it's leaking follow the leak and check if the leak runs down the return rubber hose..separator will need to be repalced.
For the tri seal leaking..check the most upward and out-ward timing cover bolt on both sides..at that point feel behind the timing cover to the head and see if there is oil..if there is at this location ...tri seal repair will need to be performed.
Once all is fixed wash off area's and then replace the acc belt due to possible oil residue that had contaminated belt.
All these repairs can be done by you providing you have mechanical skill and time not to rush ..from 1 easy and 10 hard, separator is a skill 2..tri seal repair is about a 9 for technical reasoning(your drilling the seal and there will be metal shaving that you have to prevent from dropping in the timing chain area..drop and shaving and you'll clog an oil passage..access the tri seal that needs to be mod'd is a skill of about 5)...the acc belt is about a skill 5 for thinking how to f*ck your gonna get that belt out without removing anything other than lowing the sway bar..lol..once you get the hang of the belt replacement it's about a skill 1)
..if you need any further help msg me and I'll do what I can
Another oil leak which most ppl miss diagnose for the timing cover is the oil/air separator leaking down the return pipe and covering the bottom of the timing cover with oil..the oil also sprays from teh separator onto the timing cover LH contact area so timing cover gasket seal is replaced when misdiagnosed.
Check the oil separator, if it's leaking follow the leak and check if the leak runs down the return rubber hose..separator will need to be repalced.
For the tri seal leaking..check the most upward and out-ward timing cover bolt on both sides..at that point feel behind the timing cover to the head and see if there is oil..if there is at this location ...tri seal repair will need to be performed.
Once all is fixed wash off area's and then replace the acc belt due to possible oil residue that had contaminated belt.
All these repairs can be done by you providing you have mechanical skill and time not to rush ..from 1 easy and 10 hard, separator is a skill 2..tri seal repair is about a 9 for technical reasoning(your drilling the seal and there will be metal shaving that you have to prevent from dropping in the timing chain area..drop and shaving and you'll clog an oil passage..access the tri seal that needs to be mod'd is a skill of about 5)...the acc belt is about a skill 5 for thinking how to f*ck your gonna get that belt out without removing anything other than lowing the sway bar..lol..once you get the hang of the belt replacement it's about a skill 1)
..if you need any further help msg me and I'll do what I can
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Joined: Dec 2010
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From: Houston, Texas
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Irish07,
Thanks for the help!!
I have a feeling it’s the separator, I had noticed some oil residue on the hose assembly about a week ago when I was scoping out the thermostat repair. At that time, I dont' think there was oil leaking on the ground.
Earlier this week I noticed the small oil stains on the floor when I pulled the car out of the garage. I took a closer look at the separator and there was definitely oil leaking in that area. I just couldn’t follow the leak path down the hoses because it’s so tight in there and I wanted to lift the car and have a better look from below. I got a rough idea of where the oil was leaking from off the bottom of the car by leaving a cardboard box under the car. The leak spot looked to roughly match up with the bottom of the timing cover, I got discouraged thinking it was the timing cover … so good news if it is the separator.
Do you recommend replacing the acc belt regardless of the nature of the leak? … I was thinking the same thing last night, “how the f*ck am I going to get that thing in and out with so little clearance”
Again, thanks for the help. I’ll keep you updated!!
Thanks for the help!!
I have a feeling it’s the separator, I had noticed some oil residue on the hose assembly about a week ago when I was scoping out the thermostat repair. At that time, I dont' think there was oil leaking on the ground.
Earlier this week I noticed the small oil stains on the floor when I pulled the car out of the garage. I took a closer look at the separator and there was definitely oil leaking in that area. I just couldn’t follow the leak path down the hoses because it’s so tight in there and I wanted to lift the car and have a better look from below. I got a rough idea of where the oil was leaking from off the bottom of the car by leaving a cardboard box under the car. The leak spot looked to roughly match up with the bottom of the timing cover, I got discouraged thinking it was the timing cover … so good news if it is the separator.
Do you recommend replacing the acc belt regardless of the nature of the leak? … I was thinking the same thing last night, “how the f*ck am I going to get that thing in and out with so little clearance”
Again, thanks for the help. I’ll keep you updated!!
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 427
From: UK
Rep Power: 34
I remember reading on a Ferrari forum someone had 355 Ferrari with a very slow oil leak. He used some 'Stop Oil Leak' used the car without pushing it hard for 2 months and 100 odd miles later did a full oil change. He said it was the best fix he had ever used?
The only time I used a stop leak product was in my Ferrari 360 when the power steering started to leak and an occassional groaning noise on full lock. I used some lucas stuff and problem solved.
(And now I prepare for the onslaught of no no no do not put any additives in the car oil brigade). BRING IT ON !
The only time I used a stop leak product was in my Ferrari 360 when the power steering started to leak and an occassional groaning noise on full lock. I used some lucas stuff and problem solved.
(And now I prepare for the onslaught of no no no do not put any additives in the car oil brigade). BRING IT ON !
Basic Sponsor
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 2,981
From: British Columbia
Rep Power: 208
I remember reading on a Ferrari forum someone had 355 Ferrari with a very slow oil leak. He used some 'Stop Oil Leak' used the car without pushing it hard for 2 months and 100 odd miles later did a full oil change. He said it was the best fix he had ever used?
The only time I used a stop leak product was in my Ferrari 360 when the power steering started to leak and an occassional groaning noise on full lock. I used some lucas stuff and problem solved.
(And now I prepare for the onslaught of no no no do not put any additives in the car oil brigade). BRING IT ON !
The only time I used a stop leak product was in my Ferrari 360 when the power steering started to leak and an occassional groaning noise on full lock. I used some lucas stuff and problem solved.
(And now I prepare for the onslaught of no no no do not put any additives in the car oil brigade). BRING IT ON !
No but, all being serious though..stop leaks can work, and do work for what they were made to do..clog a hole that oil was passing from..just there a temporary repair, they try to clog the hole where the gasket or seal is leaking..but these stop leaks have no smarts to them, it has no clue weither is a hole in the gasket or a oil passage..
Basic Sponsor
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 2,981
From: British Columbia
Rep Power: 208
Irish07,
Thanks for the help!!
I have a feeling it’s the separator, I had noticed some oil residue on the hose assembly about a week ago when I was scoping out the thermostat repair. At that time, I dont' think there was oil leaking on the ground.
Earlier this week I noticed the small oil stains on the floor when I pulled the car out of the garage. I took a closer look at the separator and there was definitely oil leaking in that area. I just couldn’t follow the leak path down the hoses because it’s so tight in there and I wanted to lift the car and have a better look from below. I got a rough idea of where the oil was leaking from off the bottom of the car by leaving a cardboard box under the car. The leak spot looked to roughly match up with the bottom of the timing cover, I got discouraged thinking it was the timing cover … so good news if it is the separator.
Do you recommend replacing the acc belt regardless of the nature of the leak? … I was thinking the same thing last night, “how the f*ck am I going to get that thing in and out with so little clearance”
Again, thanks for the help. I’ll keep you updated!!
Thanks for the help!!
I have a feeling it’s the separator, I had noticed some oil residue on the hose assembly about a week ago when I was scoping out the thermostat repair. At that time, I dont' think there was oil leaking on the ground.
Earlier this week I noticed the small oil stains on the floor when I pulled the car out of the garage. I took a closer look at the separator and there was definitely oil leaking in that area. I just couldn’t follow the leak path down the hoses because it’s so tight in there and I wanted to lift the car and have a better look from below. I got a rough idea of where the oil was leaking from off the bottom of the car by leaving a cardboard box under the car. The leak spot looked to roughly match up with the bottom of the timing cover, I got discouraged thinking it was the timing cover … so good news if it is the separator.
Do you recommend replacing the acc belt regardless of the nature of the leak? … I was thinking the same thing last night, “how the f*ck am I going to get that thing in and out with so little clearance”
Again, thanks for the help. I’ll keep you updated!!
To remove and install the belt, is all done from beneith..i remove the sway bar mounts and leave the end links attached.. pull teh sway bar down..now you have some access..remove teh black bracket taht secures the bottom return hose for the separator(black bracket at bottom of timing cover held in by 2 bolts)..now that's all the room your getting...check your lower idler pulley, if the pulley has walled edges you have the newer type, if there are no walled edges you have the old version ..this is important on getting a new belt..if you wave the old type..I'd get the newer type pulley and the newer type belt..the newer type pulley was made to stop a squeal concern from the belt area during cold start-up..to replace the pulley is simple, just remove the 15mm bolt in the center and the pulley is off..
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Registered User
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 427
From: UK
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hehe..I won't tell you what you can and can't put..your car, do what you want..heck crush up some banana's and stuff them in there too..and for real large leaks throw in a mars bar to clog the hole..lol
No but, all being serious though..stop leaks can work, and do work for what they were made to do..clog a hole that oil was passing from..just there a temporary repair, they try to clog the hole where the gasket or seal is leaking..but these stop leaks have no smarts to them, it has no clue weither is a hole in the gasket or a oil passage..
No but, all being serious though..stop leaks can work, and do work for what they were made to do..clog a hole that oil was passing from..just there a temporary repair, they try to clog the hole where the gasket or seal is leaking..but these stop leaks have no smarts to them, it has no clue weither is a hole in the gasket or a oil passage..
Here is the blurb from Lucas Stop Oil Leak. They do seem confident of their product:
Lucas Engine Oil Stop Leak is a unique formulation of Lucas additives and very specific base stocks designed to stop seal leaks in engines. It contains nothing that could be harmful to an engine and can actually extend the life of the engine oil at least 50% longer.
Basic Sponsor
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 2,981
From: British Columbia
Rep Power: 208
I beg to differ that they dont have any smarts to them. If the leak is a hole then your oil will be pouring out rather then a drip and ofcourse no stop leak will solve that one. Also I think some of the components of these chemicals form a barrier over time and activated by prolonged contact with heat. Hence the takes x amount of miles to take effect. The Lucas Stop Oil Leak is designed for seal leaks in particular.
Here is the blurb from Lucas Stop Oil Leak. They do seem confident of their product:
Lucas Engine Oil Stop Leak is a unique formulation of Lucas additives and very specific base stocks designed to stop seal leaks in engines. It contains nothing that could be harmful to an engine and can actually extend the life of the engine oil at least 50% longer.
Here is the blurb from Lucas Stop Oil Leak. They do seem confident of their product:
Lucas Engine Oil Stop Leak is a unique formulation of Lucas additives and very specific base stocks designed to stop seal leaks in engines. It contains nothing that could be harmful to an engine and can actually extend the life of the engine oil at least 50% longer.
There are numerous types of products out there for stop leaks..some work, some don't, some cause damage over time, some don't cause any damage over any length of time..but your car is not engineered to leak oil(sweat can occur but not a leak)..when a leak occurs it's because there is a problem that needs to be fixed..either a seal is not holding or the breather system is building to much pressure and forcing a seal to fail..stop leaks in my mechanical opinion just prolong a problem that needs attention..heck I use stop leaks that I trust on my own car, but that's because I'm just a mechanic trying to pay the bills and can't afford to even pay for the parts..so I prolong the problem till I can save up the cash..
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Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 427
From: UK
Rep Power: 34
Never said they do not work...in case of the lucas product, when there stop leak is hot and is in contact with air and is not moved at a fast pace..it hardends..only real place this can occur is when oil leaks through a seal or gasket to outside...fluid only type of stop leaks are better in not causing any damage when compared to pellet type stop leaks, pellet types are known for clogging
There are numerous types of products out there for stop leaks..some work, some don't, some cause damage over time, some don't cause any damage over any length of time..but your car is not engineered to leak oil(sweat can occur but not a leak)..when a leak occurs it's because there is a problem that needs to be fixed..either a seal is not holding or the breather system is building to much pressure and forcing a seal to fail..stop leaks in my mechanical opinion just prolong a problem that needs attention..heck I use stop leaks that I trust on my own car, but that's because I'm just a mechanic trying to pay the bills and can't afford to even pay for the parts..so I prolong the problem till I can save up the cash..
There are numerous types of products out there for stop leaks..some work, some don't, some cause damage over time, some don't cause any damage over any length of time..but your car is not engineered to leak oil(sweat can occur but not a leak)..when a leak occurs it's because there is a problem that needs to be fixed..either a seal is not holding or the breather system is building to much pressure and forcing a seal to fail..stop leaks in my mechanical opinion just prolong a problem that needs attention..heck I use stop leaks that I trust on my own car, but that's because I'm just a mechanic trying to pay the bills and can't afford to even pay for the parts..so I prolong the problem till I can save up the cash..
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Joined: Dec 2010
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From: Houston, Texas
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Oil Leak update
I was finally able to get under my car this weekend and investigate the oil leak further. It turns out that oil was leaking right at the oil filter.
I checked the the timing belt cover for oil residue and it was clean ... although it was tight in there and impossible to check all around. I followed all the hoses from the separator and they had very minimal oil on them, meaning the big leak was not coming from the separator. It think it has a very small/slow leak and plan on chaning it out with an after market one, but it will take a little time to do that. I'll keep my eye on it for now.
Basically there was no oil anywhere in the engine compartment. I looked everywhere I could around the belt and again, clean.
Not sure how it just started leaking at the filter but for sure that's where the problem is.
I also changed my thermostat while I was working on the car. It wasn't too bad ... I'll post an update on the thermostat thread.
Here are a couple of pics. You can see there wasn't any oil at the timing cover. Also, no oil on the compressor.
Big sigh of relief!!!
I checked the the timing belt cover for oil residue and it was clean ... although it was tight in there and impossible to check all around. I followed all the hoses from the separator and they had very minimal oil on them, meaning the big leak was not coming from the separator. It think it has a very small/slow leak and plan on chaning it out with an after market one, but it will take a little time to do that. I'll keep my eye on it for now.
Basically there was no oil anywhere in the engine compartment. I looked everywhere I could around the belt and again, clean.
Not sure how it just started leaking at the filter but for sure that's where the problem is.
I also changed my thermostat while I was working on the car. It wasn't too bad ... I'll post an update on the thermostat thread.
Here are a couple of pics. You can see there wasn't any oil at the timing cover. Also, no oil on the compressor.
Big sigh of relief!!!
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Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 25
From: Houston, Texas
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WG,
You sent me a message on another 6Speedonline account that I have asking for my recommendations on independent AM service shops in Houston. Unfortunately I can't seem to access that account & wasn't able to rerply. I'm glad you posted again because now i can give you the shop info. here you go:
1. Katy Coach Works in the AM certified body & frame repair facility in Houston. They also do mechanical/electrical service. They've done some work for me & I was pleased. The guy to talk to is Jay Myers. They are located at 1180 Blalock ( about 1/4 mile north of the Katy Fwy.). The phine number is 713-465-6225
2. eurocar-werk is a good independent shop & have been around a long time. I have not used them yet but have friends that have & they say they do good work at reasonable prices. they are located at 5103 Gulfton @ S Rice Houston TX 77081 . 713-661-6428
3. I have heard that Driver's Source on Memorial just west of Dairy Ashford is a good shop. There contact info is 14750 Memorial Drive, Houston, TX 77079
(281) 497-1000
4. The last place that I know of is Lucas Auto Care which advertises that they specialize in AM service. Their contact info is 12600 Grant Rd.
Cypress, TX 77429; Tel: 281-379-5800
Hope this helps.Let me know how you make out.
Cheers,
Tom Fritsch
You sent me a message on another 6Speedonline account that I have asking for my recommendations on independent AM service shops in Houston. Unfortunately I can't seem to access that account & wasn't able to rerply. I'm glad you posted again because now i can give you the shop info. here you go:
1. Katy Coach Works in the AM certified body & frame repair facility in Houston. They also do mechanical/electrical service. They've done some work for me & I was pleased. The guy to talk to is Jay Myers. They are located at 1180 Blalock ( about 1/4 mile north of the Katy Fwy.). The phine number is 713-465-6225
2. eurocar-werk is a good independent shop & have been around a long time. I have not used them yet but have friends that have & they say they do good work at reasonable prices. they are located at 5103 Gulfton @ S Rice Houston TX 77081 . 713-661-6428
3. I have heard that Driver's Source on Memorial just west of Dairy Ashford is a good shop. There contact info is 14750 Memorial Drive, Houston, TX 77079
(281) 497-1000
4. The last place that I know of is Lucas Auto Care which advertises that they specialize in AM service. Their contact info is 12600 Grant Rd.
Cypress, TX 77429; Tel: 281-379-5800
Hope this helps.Let me know how you make out.
Cheers,
Tom Fritsch
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Registered User
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 327
From: Houston, Texas
Rep Power: 31
1. Katy Coach Works in the AM certified body & frame repair facility in Houston. They also do mechanical/electrical service. They've done some work for me & I was pleased. The guy to talk to is Jay Myers. They are located at 1180 Blalock ( about 1/4 mile north of the Katy Fwy.). The phine number is 713-465-6225
2. eurocar-werk is a good independent shop & have been around a long time. I have not used them yet but have friends that have & they say they do good work at reasonable prices. they are located at 5103 Gulfton @ S Rice Houston TX 77081 . 713-661-6428
3. I have heard that Driver's Source on Memorial just west of Dairy Ashford is a good shop. There contact info is 14750 Memorial Drive, Houston, TX 77079
(281) 497-1000
4. The last place that I know of is Lucas Auto Care which advertises that they specialize in AM service. Their contact info is 12600 Grant Rd.
Cypress, TX 77429; Tel: 281-379-5800
Hope this helps.Let me know how you make out.
Cheers,
Tom Fritsch
2. eurocar-werk is a good independent shop & have been around a long time. I have not used them yet but have friends that have & they say they do good work at reasonable prices. they are located at 5103 Gulfton @ S Rice Houston TX 77081 . 713-661-6428
3. I have heard that Driver's Source on Memorial just west of Dairy Ashford is a good shop. There contact info is 14750 Memorial Drive, Houston, TX 77079
(281) 497-1000
4. The last place that I know of is Lucas Auto Care which advertises that they specialize in AM service. Their contact info is 12600 Grant Rd.
Cypress, TX 77429; Tel: 281-379-5800
Hope this helps.Let me know how you make out.
Cheers,
Tom Fritsch
Thanks guys! I'll look into them, next time my car has to go in.