Did some fluid checks and found bits in the brake fluid.

I immediately raised the car to examine the brakes.

The pads have small pieces on the edges crumbling off (excessive heat I imagine) and the disc looks worst for wear!

Tried taking the the pads out but 2 pins are stuck, both the lower part of the calipers.

Always worth checking your fluids. I hardly ever check the brake fluid itself only the level of the fluid. But from now on will always do a full check!

 

If you have debris actually in the fluid it will not be from the pads
I would want to find the source of the debris PDQ

 

Found this on the internet, and planning to remove calipers for a full inspection:

Most of the vehicles on the road today have brake reservoirs full of dirty black fluid with little particles floating in it. This is because brake fluid is made to absorb trace amounts of moisture in the brake hydraulic system and as it becomes saturated it degrades with time. Most of the little black specks floating around are actually bits of rubber from the various rubber seals in your brake hydraulic system – parts like the brake calipers, wheel cylinders, and master cylinder.

 

Wow I have never seen a case like that before and I have bought cars that haven't had the brake fluid change in over 10 years. I wonder if the wrong fluid was used which caused a chemical reaction and started eating at the seals? Is your car a 2011?

 

Mine is a 2005. Service history is complete Aston Martin from Day 1. Previous brake fluid change was only 4,000 miles ago from Aston Martin so doubt they used the wrong fluid.

Wont know more till I take the calipers off...

 

When your fluid goes bad, it gets clumpy, that means your fluid is probably 2-3 years old. Replace width fresh new fluid, or upgrade to a superior fluid. Hope that helps

 

Yes over time the fluid absorbs moisture etc. Currently having the front calipers examined for seals quality in an attempt to find the origin of the black bits. (was tempted to have them repainted but decided otherwise). The Master Cylinder seals are in good condition and so are the brake pipes as far as a visual inspection is concerned.

Will be doing a pre flush straight out of the pipes so the bits can get out with DOT 4 fluid. This will be followed by the bleed to remove air bubbles. Will have a few litres of DOT 4 for this. Not planing on using anything higher spec since I will be doing a flush of the fluid every year to 18 months from now on.

 

Refurbed the internal seals on the calipers and new yellow stuff brake pads. (was tempted to repaint them yellow but decided against it )

Did a complete brake fluid change - 2.5 litres to clear it.

Brakes are now much improved.

 

As an aside, I believe that if you are not scrupulous in clearing out the old fluid with a proper flush, a switch from DTO 4 to 5 will cause precipitation and clumping to occur (if there is residual DOT 4 left behind). So, good call on sticking with DOT 4.

 

Yes I have heard mixing even the slightest variants in brake fluid can spell problems. Brakes are much improved and no squeeling. Managed to shave off a bit of the yellow paint on the pads and attach the OEM shims that are meant for the Pagid RS 4 -2 pads. Also dabbed some anti squeal paste for good measure.

Bleeding did take a bit longer then I expected but an interesting service to undertake and my first time too.

 

Did you bleed the brakes the old fashion way or did you use a power bleeder? I have a power bleeder and love it. Simply pump the unit up a few times and open the bleed screws up on the calipers and wait for fresh fluid to come through. You will spend more time jacking the car up and taking the wheels off than bleeding the brakes.

 

I used a similiar system which connect a bottle to the air valve of the car tyre. When connected up it gently pushes brake fluid into the master cylinder. Worked a treat. I also had collectable container and pipe with a valve that does not allow air back into the system connected to the nipples. A normal pipe and container would of sufficed. Totally agree that you spend more time jacking up car.

 

Always use a pressure bleeder if you can, it does a much Better job of getting all the air bubbles out.

The main reason to do upgraded brake fluid is it is much less compressible so it actually improves brake pedal feedback incredibly. Between 10-20% less compressible. You get unbelievable feedback with high end brake fluid and it lasts longer too (especially Castrol SRF).

 

How are you liking the "yellow stuff" brake pads?

 

whoever penned this explanation is a dip****.......It's a sealed system so pieces of brake components are not going to find their way into the brake fluid. Just change your fluid and then measure the time to re-occurrence to determine the severity of the problem.